Cheap tweaks...What would YOU reccomend?


Hey everyone, I am looking for some cheap tweaks, i just got done putting in a inner tube under my componets as an isolation device, and it works great. What else would you reccomend?..i am also thinking of an inner tube under the spkrs, with some sort of device to keep them stable. What do you think of Rf blockers..etc Please leave comments on your tweaks and how they turned out. i am looking forward to trying some. Thanks all
haoleb

Showing 10 responses by lacee

I have found that a half round tube trap works wonders when placed a couple of feet ahead and right in the centre of the speakers.It is almost like listening to headphones,may have something to do with the old ambisonic mindset.I know it flies in the face of audio mantra"put nothing between you and the speakers" but this seems to do the trick.I think it cancels out interchannel crosstalk between the right and left speaker.One thing is certain, the centre image is rock solid not diffuse.
Now the next fun tweek has been demagnetizing my cd and vinyl collection.Next up are demagging power, speaker and IC's.The demag is working so well,there are a half dozen guys right now out trying to source units.This is the most effective tweek yet and I have done almost all there is to do.Dedicated 30 amp runs of 10 guage wire, Furman IT 1220 balanced power conditioner, Shunyata Hydra 2,and Annaconda power cords,upscale Shunyata and Goertz IC and speaker cables,while all beneficial,the Hammond F 21 tape eraser has proven to be the most beneficial and one of the least costly.To hear a before and after on an lp can turn a non tweeker into a believer.
Williwonka, I was using some DIY 10 guage Romex as power cords for my Acoustat tube amps, into a Furutech GTX d gold outlet on a dedicated 20 amp line.Very nice sound, and I moved my Annacondas out to my vinyl/headphone setup.

What sounds even better now is running the amps directly to the panel with no Furutech GTX D Gold outlet which until recently, each power amp was plugged into.

Each amp is now on it's own dedicated 20 amp line.
Each line has the cheap but good copper Furutech receptacle and plugs directly into the Furutech IEC on each amp.

Conclusions?

Better sound, yes.

But is it because each amp is now on a dediacted line?
Is it because I have one less break in the route of power from the panel to the amps ie- no GTX D receptacle?
Were the old Acoustat tube amps starved for power?
Until now I never would have thought so.

So for those who have multiple dedicated lines and multiple outlets of whatever brand, try the direct approach like I did.

Go direct from the panel to your amp.

The only more direct route would be to solder the 10 guage Romex directly to your amp,bypassing all IEC outlets and plugs which is not a safe thing to do and not reccomended.
Thanks, looks like I have the heavey duty toggle switches.

My amps are always on, in standby, the toggle switch just puts the amp into full power/play mode.

It replaces a circuit that was used on the stock amps to turn the amps on to full power when a signal was sensed by that circuit.
That signal sensing full power circuit was said to degrade the sound,so a heavey duty toggle switch was used as part of a mod.

I was just curious if there is a hierarchy concerning toggle switches.

Like is there a Nordost Odin of toggle switches?

Thanks for all the tips so far.
Those cheap Furutech copper connectors do sound good.
I am debating the move up to the more expensive Rhodium version to match the Furutech rodium IEC that I installed in my amps.

I suppose I should just bite the bullet and do it.

Anyone made the move and regretted it?

I would love to run direct from the panel to my front end gear,but that would mean two more dedicated lines,and long ones at that.I've used the professional wire covers in seven foot lengths and the thought of two more runs is just too much.
What I have done is install the Furutech GTX D Gold on the wall that the two front end components are plugged into and that made a positive improvemnt over the stock outlet.So I have two dedicated lines, one for each amp and one line, not dedicated for the front end.

I'm just about at the end of the line(pun intended)in getting power to my gear.
Thanks for the reply Theaudiotweak.
I had considered the rhodium plug so that the amp sees a rhodium to rhodium connection, despite the fact that the romex is copper.

I guess I should have used a copper IEC on the amp for continuities sake.
Here's something I'd like to put "out there" to get some response concerning a tweak that's not mentioned or is one of the last unchartered territories of tweakdom.

I am curious about on/off power switches.

My amps are old and have the ancient toggle switch.

I've upgraded the fuses, IEC,wirng from the IEC inlet,RCA, and now I am wondering about the quality of that toggle switch.

Does anyone think it would make a difference in quality to replace it with something newer?

If so what type of switch and from what source?

I am certain that some of the upper tier electronics must use on/off switches that are above the normal ones we most often see.

Then again, maybe the power swich doesn't matter that much?

My positive past experiences with upgrading power related items leads me in the direction that the off/on switch just has to be doing something to the sound, and that some just have to be better than others.

It may or may not be a cheap tweak, but I am looking for answers from those who have experience with power switches.

This also goes out to anyone from the audio industry,is there a need for a designer power switch and if you felt so, which one did you use?
I hope Ralph will enlighten me for instance.
I also had problems with the 10 guage Furutech stranded wire when I used it for a DIY power cord even using Furutech plugs.

THe wire is very stiff and a bit thick on the plastic insulation.

I gave up, went back to 10 guage Romex with better furutech connectors. Nice tight fit.

I guess since I'm one of those less is more types, I have a problem adding spade connectors and solder to a connector.

I've always felt that the sound was less coloured with a direct,clean connection,and that a solderless connection when there can be one(as on my Furutech RCA's)was about as pure as it can get, noyhing between the bare wire and the connectors.

I agree that the connection must be as tight as possible,and that if solder needs to be used it has to be from one of the top aftermarket sources, like many of the silver solders.

I could agree with tining the stranded wires with a small bit of quality solder, but I think I would pass on any type of connector when making up a power cord.

Those little spades ,even when they are copper ,just have to be adding something extra to the sound or taking something away,but that's just my audiphile nervosa.

I don't doubt your claims, and it's always great to learn new stuff.
I stayed on the grid.

I couldn't afford to sell my system at a loss and buy new gear.

Instead, I invested $40.00 dollars in some ERS cloths and did a bit of DIY to shield the wires inside my phono stage.

Not as dramatic a change as going to all battery power(I also considered that option a few years back),it has proven to be a beneficial improvement to my sound.

A not cheap tweak that improved my sound yet again, was the addition of a couple of QV2's.

We never had to do anything except plug it into the wall back when I started in audio in the late 70's.

I think cleaning up the power should be the first place to start when you are thinking about changing your gear because you've grown tired of the sound.
I have experienced similar things messing with power tweaks.

At first you really like what's going on.

Then you start to think that there is a bit of mellowing or smoothing out.
We wonder if something is missing in the music.

And that would be correct.

What's missing is the noise we sometimes think of as the way the music should sound.
Great advice.
Always clean the contacts,twice a year works for me.
I like to finish with a thin coat of Esst from Walker Audio.

I have been using a Hammond bulk tape eraser to demag my CD,DVD an LP's for several years now.

My friends always think I've done something to the system, like turn up the volume when I give them a before and after demo.

They just can't believe that the better sound after the demag is due to using the Hammond bulk tape eraser.

I started with the small hand held unit from Radio Shack that I bought back in the late 70's when I used a reel to reel in my system.

It works.

A friend had a recording studio and he switched to digital,so I got lucky and he gave me the Hammond .