Bill
Jupiter copper instead of Duelund CAST? Love hearing this kind of advice - thanks!!! Specific and to the point.
Thanks Bill |
Grannyring
I have been following this forum very carefully and, just as I was about to buy two 5.6mfd Duelund caps for my Coincident Total Eclipse series 1 speakers, I discovered that my crossovers much more closely resembled your Total victory IIIs rather than Charles1dad's Total Eclipses.I am very much in the same position as you Grannyring. Either I compromise and use smaller caps in my speakers or I build external crossovers for them. I would like to ask you though why you chose the Mills MRA12 resistors and Obbligato Premium Gold caps you did rather than Duelund resisters and, say, JB JFX Premium caps? I ask this because this is a route I'm thinking of going down now instead of an external box crossover. In your view, would this in any way be a better way to go if I was replacing internal parts?
Many thanks, Tas |
Gentlemen,
well, I've (finally) made a decision! After weeks of reading and reading about this fascinating topic I've been able to place an order for parts with some confidence.
I have a pair of Coincident Total Eclipse version one speakers set up as Bi-wire. My crossover is split up into two areas. One of them at the bottom of the speaker, near the two bass drivers and the second high up inside a chamber that houses the two mid range range drivers and single tweeter. Quite a bit different it seems to Charles1dad's setup (unfortunately). With the help of the Australian Duelund distributor (himself a maker of fine speakers) I've been able to decipher the design of the crossovers and work out the key components.
Like Grannyring (I'm going to ask you how you got that name one day by the way! lol), I was reluctant at this stage to build an outboard crossover so I've focussed on parts that fit my enclosures.
All my original caps are Solen and resisters are Lynx. I had a key capacitor to replace in the high frequency crossover that handled the tweeter (5.2mfd) and this is going to become a Duelund VSF Black. Have people here heard of that type? Apparently, it's the version of cap between the VSF and the CAST. I simply couldn't fit a CAST into the internal space I had available. The VSF Black is a perfect compromise for me.
All bypass caps will be replaced by Janzens and resitors will be Duelunds. While everything is on order I'm trying to make up my mind what internal wire I should use. Can people here recommend anything strongly? I thought of Duelund 2.0 and, the Duelund distributor recommended his own hand made wire but I'd love to have people's opinions from here. Do I really have to spend $25 per foot for internal wire?
Thanks in advance everyone and have a happy and prosperous new year
Tas |
Grannyring (Bill) and Charles
thanks so much for your input. Bill, my knowledge of these speakers tells me that when Coincident decided to go from Version one to Version two of the Total Eclipses, they (Israel Blume) included an internal rewire. I'm talking about the wire going from the binding posts to the crossovers and the crossovers to the drivers. The crossovers themselves are definitely soldered point to point now and that's exactly the way they'll be after I substitute parts into them.
Now, as for the crossover parts, my mid/treble crossover also consists of three capacitors - 5.1, 2.2 and 2.7mfd - and three resistors - two 15ohm and a 5ohm. My understanding is that only the 5.1mfd drives the tweeter and that's going to be the new Duelund black. Now, the other two I THOUGHT were bypass. Do I know what I'm talking about? Absolutely not. Could I have misunderstood the information I was given, absolutely yes! lol I can tell you that the Duelund guy and I produced a circuit diagram and I'd be delighted to have you look at that Bill. I'll post it now on my Audiogon web page. I can tell you, I'm changing nothing in the crossover except the brands of the particular parts. If you have ANY advice or opinion I'd be very happy to hear it.
Amazing forum folks. Huge help.
Cheers, Tas |
Salectric
Very interesting information about the Duelund standard resistors. I've just re-spoken with my Duelund rep and he tells me the resistors in my crossovers are shunt and are therefore less critical to the sound. Would your resistors have been in a similar situation or were they in series and, therefore, making more of an impact? The reason I ask is I'm trying to get some gauge as to what impact my choice of resistor in my particular situation will be.
In a normal situation, I really think I'd like to just get the CAST and put my mind at ease but, in my predicament, the money I save on resistors goes on better internal wiring.
I love what a fellow in England has done with an external crossover he built for his Westminster Royal SE's. CAST everything and some silver CAST capacitors just to top it all off. No agonising over cost for him. Apparently, he's very happy with the result! lol ;b
http://jeffsplace.me/wordpress/?p=3701 |
Just an addendum to my original capacitor parts list, the capacitors I'm installing in my Total Eclipses are going to be Jantzen Audio Superior Z-Caps in all positions except the tweeter cap (which is Duelund VSF black). Charles, one of these days I'd love to look inside a Total Eclipse II and try and figure out how your crossover could be so different. I'm completely jealous about the positioning & type of your crossover components. Prodigiously more upgrade friendly than mine.
I've now passed a circuit diagram of my tweeter/mid crossover on to Bill(Grannyring) and think we may get some clarification about whether I have a Zobel network.
As usual, huge thanks everyone. I truly feel as though I'm not doing this alone. For the record, I have a family & these speakers were hard earned and are treasured and I wouldn't risk doing what I'm doing without some serious support and that's down to the incredible generosity of spirit of people in this forum.
Cheers, Tas |
Charles and Bill
Thanks for your replies. Very interesting information Bill, thanks.
Now, regarding the CAST resistors, no, I ordered the standard type, but I have a feeling you're going to tell me there's a difference in placing standard to CAST? Please - I'm all ears? I just asked the Duelund distributor here to supply Duelund resistors not thinking there was a standard and CAST.... |
It has been sleepy!! I check it almost every day but have had nothing too much to report. I was hoping someone else might.
The only thing I have to add is that my Duelund distributor must have run into a delay of some sort and decided to give me all Duelund CAST resistors instead of the standard ones, for not too much more than the standard price. Very happy am I!
The down side is that my Duelund order was only just placed a week ago so I have around 7-8 weeks to go. C'est la vies
Very interesting to read about your opinion of the Obligato cap Bill. Such a minor cost and a genuine improvement. Well done. Tas |
Grannyring
please check your gmail account, I've popped you an email.
Cheers |
Grannyring
I MARVEL (notice capitol letters! lol) at your desire to keep going back to the furnace to see if there's anything else you can try.
In an earlier post you mention how hard it was to work inside your speakers, mine are simpler than yours (Total Eclipses) and I still felt like a was a brain surgeon at times! I congratulate you on your persistence in order to gain knowledge and a musical edge.
No updates my end re my crossover components. Still waiting for Duelund to do their thing before I get the total delivery. I anticipate I'll be dancing and singing like the rest of you about what an improvement they've made in around a month - wishful thinking!!!
Must be something someone else can write. This thread has gone quiet but it remains one of the most fascinating audio blogs I've read in years.
Cheers everyone, Tas |
Hi Charles and Bill
Charles - you may have forgotten but we had already spoken about the location of my crossovers - my speakers being bi-wired meant that the crossover components were in 2 locations. The first where you mentioned and the other in the mid/tweeter enclosure. Much harder to work on than your speakers.
Bill - fantastic to hear from you. I've already secured some WBT 5% solder and all is ready for the transplant. I'll definitely be keeping in touch.
Very excited over here. |
Hi all
I've received my Parts Connection shipment of Neotech wire for my internal re-wiring of my Coincident Total Eclipses but the first - and hopefully only - issue I have is the fact that the 6N teflon copper UPOCC (20AWG, 16AWG and 12AWG) I've bought is unidirectional. Fair enough but it isn't labelled in any way that I can see. Just bare red teflon.
In my situation, how would you work out which way to run the wire? Please don't say "by listening to it"? That'll just send me to an asylum! lol I cannot, in my wildest dreams, imagine re-wiring these speakers more than once just to compare results.
I've thought about writing to Parts connection but.....why on earth wouldn't they label this stuff if it was unidirectional?!
Love to hear people's thoughts on this!
Cheers, Tas |
Granny, Roxy, you make the difficult, easy.
Thanks guys |
Ooh - very good.
My next effort could be to start swapping caps in my DAC and pre-amp. These could be the answer for me |
Well, my package of Duelund VSF Black, Duelund CAST resistors and Jantzen Audio Superior Z Caps FINALLY arrived. Ordered on January 15th and arrived last week! That should give everyone some idea about how busy Duelund have become.
I'm re-wiring using Neotech 6N copper/teflon as well. I'm most of the way through rewiring and rebuilding crossovers in the first speaker and - aside from the fact that I'm really slow - all seems to be going well.
Charles1dad - I've said it before and I'll say it again, you are HUGELY fortunate you bought the Total Eclipse V2. The crossover and wiring in my speaker is all kinds of tricky to work with.Thank heavens I bought the VSF Black instead of the CAST caps for the tweeter - even they were really difficult to tuck into the Tweeter/mid compartment.
I should have my first speaker finished by tomorrow sometime. I'm re-checking everything around 20 times but still live in mortal fear that I'll reverse wire something. So far so good.
Grannyring - I just don't know how you can revisit this kind of thing when you've done it once. Once this is finished, all being well, I hope to never open these things up again!
Tas |
Volleyguy1
Duelund CAST that was leaking oil? Interesting to hear. I have wondered if these amazing parts ever go "off" and, if they ever did, what support we'd get from Duelund. Do you have any idea if you stand a good chance of a free repair/replacement from Duelund if required?
Re the dead quiet vintage amp....I'm completely convinced that 80 or so years ago there were production techniques for caps, and maybe even power supplies, that we may have left behind. If someone knew how to make an amp dead quiet then I'm hoping that that will be the case again and again. Viva la research and well done Jupiter for forging ahead with better cap building techniques!
For my own part I just love the idea that I've gotten off the "new unit merry go round". I'd rather sort out something I own and make it work properly than buy yet another seller's promise of the perfect source component, line stage, amplifier....whatever.
Tas |
Charles
Here here! For all of my life I've loved music. For most of my life I've loved the idea of enjoying music at home. After years and years of expensive HiFi frustration and, finally coming to the conclusion that one needed to be a multi millionaire to experiment and even then not be completely satisfied with my sound - I finally land on my feet in this forum. The internet and blogs like this one are a gold mine of information. Knowing what has been and is being tried and proven on equipment very similar to my own is remarkable information. I feel as though I'm FINALLY in control of this vague process of being satisfied with what I use to listen to my music. We - all of us here, have no vested interest other than freely offering information in the hope that we all take steps ahead and find peace, satisfaction and joy in this pursuit of beautiful music.
Removing the "kinks" or weaknesses in our systems can produce extraordinary results.
I'm a believer and a convert......free at last! (Somewhat passionate sounding..lol. Not meant to sound zealous - it's just such a relief to finally get to this point!!)
Tas |
Audiolabyrinth
One of the most important things I did to get into this was to read. Many of the questions you have, have already been asked and answered in this blog. People's experiences here have been extensive and they have written about them extensively in the many pages before this one. I suggest you start going through some of them. You may start answering some questions you didn't even know you had!
Highly recommended.
Tas |
Hi all
Everything has been installed in my Coincident Total Eclipses and I'm at around the 12 hour point of run in.
Initial impressions are of much more detail and bigger soundstage. Treble is more pronounced than it should be and sometimes too aggressive. Much stronger placement of instruments in 3D space. Players and instruments have moved from where I've heard in the past.
Listening to Joni Mitchell is a dream at the moment. I know I shouldn't be paying attention to what I'm listening to until the 100 hour mark but I'm just so keen to get into these.
Given that I've upgraded from solen caps and sand resistors to Duelund & Jantzen Audio - I have to say there is already an immediate benefit. My speakers/system sounds "more expensive". Can hardly believe where this is heading to. Really optimistic.
100 hours plus, here I come!!
Thanks all, Tas |
Volleyguy1
I simply could not fit a Duelund CAST cap into my mid/treble enclosure (at least based on the measurements I was given) so I opted for VSF Black cap and CAST resistors. All the remaining caps are Jantzen Audio Superior Z Caps. I thoroughly agree with you Volleyguy1, 30% (as a number) just doesn't tell the whole story with what I'm listening to right now. At 24 hours burn in I'm listening to soundscapes that are bordering on the awesome and sublime. Complex images and tones. My speakers are not at all what they once were.
Charles1dad - Thank you! I've read everything you have said in this blog. I understood what you wrote and believed your experiences but I still wasn't prepared for what I've heard so far. I thought that what would happen would be that my sound would be more articulate and real - this is more - it is far more detailed as well. I would've been satisfied with what I have as a final result but, at 24 hours?!?! I'm open mouthed.
I need to stress though, my upgrade included new Neotech internal wiring (which you already had Charles) and new Eichman-ETI speaker terminals to replace the large/fat brass terminals I had before. I think that these must have contributed to my gains here.
The truth is folks, I would never have imagined that this kind of money would produce this amount of gain. Older Coincident speakers like mine were made with great cabinets and good drivers, they just needed to be brought up to 2014 standards in their crossovers. In case anyone wants any advice, go buy a second hand pair of Coincidents - Total Eclipse or better - and upgrade them the way that's been suggested in this forum. A bargain in audio, no doubt about it. I have heard $30,000 speakers and, until my upgrade is fully run in, I'll reserve judgement, but, I repeat, I never expected this kind of jump in performance.
If we'd all lived in the same town, I'd be throwing a party for all of you to say thanks! In the meantime, thank you everyone.
Tas |
Hi again everyone
I'm at around the 100 hour mark and I have to say, I thoroughly agree with Grannyring - DON'T listen to your speakers while the burn in process is below 100 hours!! There were times that I thought they sounded so wrong that I began to wonder about my decision to upgrade. Only momentarily mind you. I know enough from you folks to understand changes that were happening.
At the moment I believe I have an amazing sound but I believe the high frequencies can still be aggressive or too loud at times - depending on source material. I have a hunch I'm a few hours yet from full burn in. Interested to hear you say that you found that as well Charles.
Something I can say without doubt now is just how much more information these speakers are allowing through than before the upgrade. For instance, I don't believe I've ever been made to pay attention to the warmth/readiness my digital source before now. I used to just turn it on (from standby) and listen. Not now - I simply cannot listen to it for at least 30 minutes. It just sounds so wrong before that stage. I can really hear any limitations of my digital source. I will definitely be investigating some upgrades for my player as well. I keep wondering what effect a CAST cap or two will have with that....actually, why not Jupiter!!
It may be a good time to ask this question, I have a Meridian 800 version 4 as my digital source. I've upgraded the power supply to linear with excellent results. Could anyone here recommend an approach to determining which capacitors I might look at changing over in this unit to improve its analogue output? There is a group in my city called Soundlabs who do this kind of thing but I'd rather do it myself if possible.
Tas |
Charles,
thanks for the reply! Output coupling position? Ok. Did you require one cap per channel or is that a single capacitor? That sounds like a marvellous next step for me. My analogue output is built on a card in slot arrangement (like a pc) and there is plenty of room. A CAST cap (or two) won't be a problem especially if it's something low level like 1uf. I have a reasonable feeling that this will go a long way to taming my "aggressive" treble which I believe is coming from my DAC.
Many thanks! Tas |
Bill, Charles,
thank you very much. I've contacted a technician (does mods locally) who I will get to identify the values of my output coupling caps and my next step will be to order the Jupiter Copper caps from Parts Connexion. This last step will be a sublime pleasure. I'm so close to total and absolute satisfaction I can taste it.
The speakers are wonderful, really wonderful. I'm still running them in and they're now better each time I listen to them. Purer, bigger, more lifelike - love them. |
Hi all
I spent some time talking to a technician about my output coupling capacitors in my digital source ( Meridian 800 DVD/CD player ) and I now know they are Nichicon 470uf/16Volt types - electrolytic. Those values mean that - as far as I know - Duelund and Jupiter (PIO) caps are completely out of the question. Needless to say I am really disappointed.
After being bowled over by the difference in before/after with my speakers I was very eager to do the same in my dac. Folks - this process of improvement is unbelievably addictive!! lol
A question to the thread members - can anyone please suggest any options for capacitors to substitute into the positions I have here?
I look forward to hearing from you and thanks very much in advance!
Tas |
Salectric
You have my absolute attention! Just before I go on, the Nichicon caps are 470uf NOT 47uf. Does that affect your thoughts here?
They are small (in size) physically......not that that's relevant, I guess.
In lieu of the 470 uf rating, would you say your advice would still apply?
Very excited here
Tas |
Hmmm - some thought provoking information coming out. I knew you wouldn't let me down!
Salectric - power supply filter? I really think you may be right. I believe the Nichicon 470µF caps are NOT the coupling caps.
This player - Meridian 800 VAX V4 - is designed like a PC ie many modular parts all connecting into a motherboard. I have two analogue output cards - one just for my main speakers(left/right) and the other for the surround speakers & subwoofer.
There should be one coupling cap per channel - there are two nichicons 470µF caps on each of the analogue cards. Earlier today I could have sworn there were two on the stereo and three on the surround. I was wrong and I mislead my technician by giving him the information that I had three on the surround card.
Ok - now I have to apologise. I incorrectly observed the facts. Sorry folks.
I think it's time I had this unit on a bench in front of this technician and he made a firm assessment. At this early stage I can say that there are two 100µF caps on the stereo card and three 100µF caps in the same position of the surround card (perhaps indicating they are the output coupling caps?!) but I won't swear to anything being anything until I get some expert advice my end. Sorry again folks!
Grannyring - if I have any doubts about my attempt on this I'll just get this audio technician to do the cap installation. My unit is hand built and not too hard to work on. I am confident with my soldering but the trick with this install will be packing the caps neatly amongst all the hardware. I don't think it's too hard for me but you are 100% correct. I'll take no chances.
I should be able to get this player in front of my technician next Tuesday to determine where things are. I'll keep you guys posted.
Charles - my player (which cost someone, somewhere, around $40,000 retail in Australia new), in its day (around 8 years ago), was reputedly the best DVD and DVD-Audio player in the world. Which is definitely not to say Meridian didn't take short cuts. I only just replaced the switch mode power supply in it with a linear one a few months ago with great results! It does amaze me where a manufacturer will try and save money.
In the case of my output coupling caps, I am thinking that my unit will be old enough that the caps we have all been talking about simply didn't exist when this unit was designed/built and that that's the main reason they will make an improvement now. However, Salectric, I've heard and respect everything you say. Thank you.
You guys are an incredible. Thank you for being out there. One of these days, we should try and organise a "convention" or meet up. I'd love to listen to music and eat and drink for an unreasonable amount of time! lol
Take care, Tas |
Salectric
I hear you. Thanks!
I am pretty sure - via anecdotal evidence - that this unit does have output coupling caps. I know of similar players that have had them changed.
I'm booked in with a technician (audio modification is his specialty) next Thursday.
Thanks again. Invaluable.
Tas |
Hi folks
well, I have two points to make after today. Firstly, after seeing my HiFi technician, it appears my CD/DVD player has got direct couple outputs. (Well predicted Salectric!) No cap upgrades to make - in that area anyway. The important information I got from him was to concentrate on improving the power supply in the player - something I already have strong plans for.
.....and, secondly, something that I think is very important indeed, my wife has started listening to music with me lately and has been commenting on the fact that my system sounds so listenable. 'So easy and natural to hear.' Folks, she NEVER normally listens with me. Now she does and she hasn't even ask me to turn it down. Do you understand how much of a step this is? She doesn't just hear - she really listens & she's impressed! For crying out loud she has requests!!!!....lol I can sit here and give you people opinions about improvements, changes...whatever, but this event says much more than anything I could come up with. The "bystanders" in my place are coming closer to the music because it's good and they want to hear more. That's a powerful change in events here. My speakers are no longer boxes! They are now revealing so much more.
My music is transformed and getting better. Often I find myself doing tell tale things like tapping my feet or my hands, laughing or even just drifting off because I'm feeling or hearing stuff that makes the music "make sense". Lots of good ol' fashioned positive emotion in this house at the moment and it continues to improve. Singers are singing to me, bass players stand out in a performance and even change their intensity at times. Keyboard players appear where there was just sound. Strings contribute to the emotion of a performance instead of just making a pitch. Frank Sinatra sang really low notes in a song I listened to earlier instead of just singing words - I didn't know until now how low he could sing!!
The point is I'm now completely re-appreciating my music and it's exhilarating.
Thanks for listening and THANK YOU to all those who have participated in this thread. Your enthusiasm, knowledge, advice, efforts etc have been a major factor in this powerful change. I'm smiling as I'm typing and I love it.
Thanks again, Tas |
Vn101606
I'm really interested to know what you mean by "positioning and support".
Since I completely rebuilt the internals of my speakers, I have constantly thought about whether I positioned my new components in an optimal way. Love to hear your take on your experience please?
A further point with my experience, my speakers continue to improve. Not sure why/how but, at around 300 hours, they are absolutely getting purer, more natural and less harsh by the day. This continues to be the most astonishing thing I've ever done in audio.
The only thing I find myself wondering about, in terms of new equipment, is what it would be like to own a Dude preamp!
Cheers, Tas |
Hey Granny!!
Glad you piped up. You are so responsible for my interest in the Dude.
Tell me, what adjustments/changes have you made to your Dude since buying it? Have you placed CAST or Jupiter components in it?
I'm using a PASS LABS X1 pre and have to wonder what my options are with cap upgrades |
Bill
That's very interesting. Sounds as though you've been very thorough in your revision of the Dude components. Tell me, if you were to buy a new Dude preamp now, would the preamp builder include the parts mods that you've performed while they're assembling the preamp? I only ask because it appears that TRL are very good at recognising improvements suggested by their customers.
Can I ask you what brand/type fuses & wire you've used in your upgrades please?
Very interesting to observe the level of performance tuning that some of you are performing. Inspiring really
Cheers, Tas |
:-)
We've all said it to one another. We've all made our own discoveries one at a time or together. Doing what we've all done here, modifying, carefully and using high end parts, has blown our expectations of what is possible through the stratosphere.
For my own part, I have bought and bought and bought better equipment for the last 30 years and now "I'm free". I'm in control. Me, not the salesperson. Finally.
Thanks you all for being here and for contributing to this extremely valuable blog.
John, if you are "fair d'inkum" (Australian expression) about bang for buck and astonishing results read this blog thoroughly. I did, I'm beaming and I'm not the only one.
Sincerely, Tas |
Whoops!
Fair dinkum is what I meant to type. Lol |
Johnk
This discussion is all a bit academic. Are you looking for reassurance? If so, it's all in the previous pages of this blog.
For my own part, the kind of mods I've performed produced results that were night and day different. In terms of difference, I'd say my speakers sound like speakers worth three times the price. I have heard 30K speakers and I'm now very much in that territory. FAR less grain. FAR more natural. FAR more revealing. Bass that is by far better controlled than before.
I've had my speakers for 10 years. I just don't need to do an A/B to know what effect my mods have made. I could itemise the changes from memory with numerous reference tracks I have. There are some pieces of music I've listened to more than 80 times over the years on my setup.
I'll repeat what I said in an earlier post. Read this blog, learn what others have tried and do your own A/B comparisons if you want. There are some very bright and enquiring people who post on here. I, and I'm tipping most others on here, are way past the point of having to make sure we are making a positive differences and, yes, some people here have done their own A/B comparisons along the way. People here have been in touch with their equipment manufactures, technicians, their own guile and a huge amount of trial and error. I found this out by reading this, yes? Some stuff they tried worked brilliantly, some not so much. But the determinations are clear, for much less money than the cost of upgrading, you may be able to make significant gains in the performance of your system because of the work done by many people on here.
The differences that can be made are just too obvious. Too radical. Often, too much better to require "scientific" certainty.
For me, this experience has been like a badly asthmatic person using a, desperately required, inhaler. For me, it's been THAT obvious. So satisfying and good I wouldn't dream of undoing anything.
I am now in a position where my speakers are now so revealing that just about any change I make to my setup is highly perceptible. Almost radically so. Resonance control has now become incredibly important. I am in absolutely no doubt about whether a change to my setup/room is making a positive/negative/nil difference because the clarity and resolution I now have is streets ahead of what it ever was before. Ever.
For the record, in my speakers, I replaced, internal wiring, all capacitors, all resistors and all terminals.
By the way, I'm a trained scientist and opera singer. I know about scientific process and I have a deep love of music. (Just thought I'd throw that in here for added colour...lol)
Cheers, Tas
P.S ...I also love tennis, Australian rules football, Italian food, walking......lolol |
Johnk
I'm sorry to hear you're out but, if I may be permitted a superficial observation to your comments on here, you seemed too vehemently one sided to me.
I should add...... , you started off your messages by saying:
"Thread is 6 years old you would think the networks been sorted out by now sure looks to be a extremely costly bunch of putzing about. Might of been better to just saved up and bought better kit."
What I got out if reading this thread is that it's possible to save HUGE sums of time (and money) - the exact opposite of your view - and, what's more, I have. That doesn't appear to interest you or you're suspicious of the idea. I think you are operating on a different wavelength altogether and you'll never be interested.
Scalectric Excellent and very, very patient post. Thank you for persisting.
Cheers, Tas (who is still beaming lol)
P.S. I also like world peace and Thai food....lol |
Salectric:
Actually, "bugger it" (another Australian expression lol), you rock! Thanks so much for all your free information and insights.
To the forum:
I reckon Johnk is a dealer otherwise he'd be "pissing himself with excitement" ( yet another wonderful Aussie expression.....where do we come up with them?! Lol) about at least trailing some of the things that have been determined on here.
Cheers again, Tas (who is now just being naughty, having a laugh and shouldn't be taken seriously FOR THIS POST ONLY ha) |
Salectric
your comment to Charles is reasonable, and similar to what I did in my speakers (replacing Solen caps with far better ones) and the result has been profound. The thing is, as Charles has said, many of us aren't here to research - we just thank god for the ones (like you) who are and follow your lead. The point has been made that, apparently, we are all just "putzing about". Given the results that can be achieved I find that description sublimely ridiculous and inflammatory.
If I were paying more attention to the Johnk's of this world I'd now be buying a new pair of speakers (or two of three) instead of paying very close respect and attention to the efforts of people like you and trying to follow your lead.
Anyway, I've said too much. Thanks again for your efforts.
Tas |
I'm assuming that to build a better inductor, you'd need to worry about better wire, larger gauge wire and resonance control - does that sound even remotely correct?
I have a speaker manufacturer that has offered to do the job for me with his own "method" but, frankly I have no idea what that means...lol
Bill and Tom - I'm reading your posts about inductors and only some of it makes sense to me (naturally)......
Maybe I need to ask a specific question here - what does one look for in a high quality inductor? I think that could be a good place to start.....
Tas |
Hi all
Been reading along with everyone's efforts here and glad the Jupiters are so promising.
Bill. A few questions please.
Where have you purchased your 100V (speaker rated) Jupiter caps from? I can't see them on Parts Connexion or the Jupiter site. All I can find are the 600V (electronics rated) versions. Did you place the Jupiters into your Coincidents speakers? Just the tweeter?
Cheers,Tas |
