Capacitor log Mundorf Silver in Oil


I wished I could find a log with information on caps. I have found many saying tremendous improvement etc. but not a detailed account of what the changes have been. I have had the same speakers for many years so am very familiar with them. (25+ years) The speakers are a set of Klipsch Lascala's. They have Alnico magnets in the mids and ceramic woofers and tweeters. The front end is Linn LP12 and Linn pre amp and amp. The speaker wire is 12 gauge and new wire.

I LOVE these speakers around 1 year ago they started to sound like garbage. As many have said they are VERY sensitive to the components before them. They are also showing what I think is the effect of worn out caps.

There are many out here on these boards I know of that are using the Klipsch (heritage) with cheaper Japanese electronics because the speakers are cheap! (for what they can do) One thing I would recommend is give these speakers the best quality musical sources you can afford. There is a LOT to get out of these speakers. My other speakers are Linn speakers at around 4k new with Linn tri-wire (I think about 1k for that) and the Klipsch DESTROY them in my mind. If you like "live feel" there is nothing like them. In fact it shocks me how little speakers have improved in 30 years (or 60 years in the Khorns instance)

In fact I question Linn's theory (that they have proved many times) that the source is the most important in the Hi-Fi chain. Linn's theory is top notch source with lessor rest of gear including speakers trumps expensive speakers with lessor source. I think is right if all things are equal but Klipsch heritage are NOT equal! They make a sound and feel that most either LOVE or hate. (I am in the LOVE camp and other speakers are boring to me)

So here goes and I hope this helps guys looking at caps in the future. Keep in mind Klipsch (heritage Khorns Belle's and Lascala's especially) are likely to show the effects of crossover changes more then most.

1 The caps are 30 years old and
2 the speakers being horn driven make changes 10x times more apparent.

Someone once told me find speakers and components you like THEN start to tweak if needed. Don't tweak something you not in love with. Makes sense to me.

So sound
Record is Let it Be (Beatles)
The voices are hard almost sounds like a worn out stylus.
Treble is very hard. I Me Mine has hard sounding guitars. Symbals sound awful. Everything has a digital vs. analog comparison x50! Paul's voice not as bad as John's and George's. Voices will crack.

different lp
Trumpets sound awful. Tambourine terrible. Bass is not great seems shy (compared to normal) but the bad caps draw soooooo much attention to the broken up mid range and hard highs that are not bright if anything it seems the highs are not working up to snuff. I have went many times to speaker to make sure tweeters are even working.

All in all they sound like crap except these Klipsch have such fantastic dynamics that even when not right they are exciting!

Makes me wonder about the people who do not like them if they are hearing worn out caps and cheap electronics? Then I can see why they do not like them! If I did not know better from 25+ years of ownership that would make sense.

For the new crossover I have chosen Mundorf Silver in Oil from what I have read and can afford. I want a warm not overly detailed sound as Klipsch already has lots of detail and does not need to be "livened up" they need lush smooth sounding caps. Hope I have made the right choice?

When the crossover is in I will do a initial impression on same lp's. Right now it goes from really bad (on what may be worn vinyl) to not as bad but NOT great on great vinyl. (I know the quality of the vinyl because tested on other speakers Linn)

The new caps are Mundorf Silver in Oil and new copper foil inductors are coming. I will at the same time be rewiring the speakers to 12 guage from the lamp cord that PWK put in. PWK was a master at getting very good sound often with crap by today's standards components.

The choice of speakers would be a toss up now depending on what I am listening to. Klipsch vastly more dynamic but if the breaking up of the sound becomes to much to effect enjoyment the Linn would be a better choice on that Lp. If I could I would switch a button back and forth between speakers depending on song and how bad the break-up sound was bothering me.

volleyguy

Showing 12 responses by barrysandy

Have been following this thread for many months. Just installed Duelund cast caps and inductors in the tweeter midrange section of the XO of my Magnepan 3.6s. Cost a small fortune. Treble's more than a bit recessed so I'm hoping everything opens up a lot more. Will read the thread again but does the treble open up and begin to sparkle as the caps break in? The cap in series with the tweeter isd a big one-- 17uF, so I'm sure it's going to take a while. Mid-range sounds a bit clearer with the Cast inductors. Has anyone measured the series resistance of Deulund 12 ga caps? How do they compare with more standard values and caps like the stock Solens?
Had some other issues when I re-worked the XO. Everything has opened up now. The CAST are WAYYYY quieter than the Solens that were in my Maggy 3.6s. I'm with you Volleyguy, I might prefer a little bit "juicy" noise for some airiness. The quiet blackness is positively frightening. Someone remind me how long these caps take to break in as I'm only at about 80 hours. Oh, I love the V-cap CuTFs as an inline electronic blocking cap versus the TFTFs. Very, very natural. Once you've heard them you won't want the tin foil version.
Finally got the 17uF Duelund Cast cap and .82 & .275 mH Cast inductors in my tweeter mid XO on 3.6 Magnepans broken in and all I can say is the sound is just glorious. Open and clear, lots of air and space, and just the right amount of instrumental texture (tonal color and balance were present but mostly leading edge emphasis without proper decay). Even after 800 hours of play these big XO pieces would not open up. The secret was an Audio Dharma Cable Cooker for 3 solid days. Most on this thread are using smaller values so you won't need this intervention. If the sound is anything less than to-die-for then you need more time or, if you have the $$$, consider buying one of these. They also did a terrific job on my ICs and speaker cables.
So have about 550 hours on all the Duelund parts in the new tweeter/midrange XO of magnepan 3.6Rs. Very neutral, quiet, extended & refined. May go back to the stock XO and do a comparison over the coming weeks. Aural memory's far from perfect but for all it's shortcomings, and it had several, the stock XO seemed to have a bit more presence and was just a bit more exciting. It's an impossible comparison (VCaps in electronics; Duelund in an XO) but I will say it anyway, the VCap CuTF is a touch warmer/sweeter in the upper mid, lower treble than the Duelund Cast. The Cast reminds me of the VCap TFTF - a great cap but just a bit cool sounding.
Forget the prior post. Despite all the time on the parts, they're still not broken in yet! The sound has changed a lot but hasn't settled in. Others that posted their opinions probably weren't dealing with 17uF Cast capacitors that weigh between 1 1/2-2 lbs each. Back later.
Volleyguy & others -- Yes exactly, used the cable cooker on the caps and inductors in the crossover for a few days. Not with the speakers in the circuit of course. Also, separately, at another time, did just the ICs and all the speaker cables. Confusing? I talk to myself all the time and completely understand what I'm talking about. Huh??? What was that?????

I do like the V-cap CuTF in electronics much better than the TFTF V-cap variety, and maybe even a little better than I like the D Cast in speakers. Oh no,apples and oranges. Arghhhh...here I go again.
David:
To burn the parts, you must first DISCONNECT and REMOVE the speakers from the crossover network. They can NOT be connected to the cooker. The inputs of the crossover are the speaker cable connections side; the outputs of the crossover are where each of the drivers was connected. If it's a parallel crossover, let's say a two-way with tweeter and woofer, I would only burn in one driver circuit at a time e.g. the tweeter circuit only, then later the woofer circuit. Hook the + input (speaker cable) side of the tweeter crossover to the + input side of the cooker and the + output (speaker driver) side of the crossover to the + output side of the cooker. Do the same cooker connections for the - tweeter input and output legs of the crossover. When connected, turn the unit on and burn (Signal polarity on the cooker is actually not important but consistency of connections is). You'll get the green light on in an Audiodharma if there is continuity. Double check the unit for right connections - negative leads connected in one loop to the cooker; positive in the other loop. Turn off the cooker if it's overheating. It shouldn't. When finished, do the other driver filter circuits, e.g. woofer. If it's a series multi-driver crossover REMOVE all the drivers and burn in the one half the circuit with the passive caps and inductors in it (the other half of the circuit has all the removed speaker connections in it and you aren't burning that in). If none of this makes any sense to you after looking at a picture of the crossover, take the parts out and burn them in individually!

Volleyguy:
On the CuTF V-caps, my guess is they're not broken in yet. My experience was using these in an amp as an interstage coupling cap between the input and driver stages using a .1uF/600 volt value. Yes, it took 400 hundred hours or so, but the midrange sounds perfectly natural and not mechanical at all to me. It's possible the very low voltage signal in your phono stage is not high enough to break the caps in as quickly.
Well Volleyguy you really would like the Cast inductors. No noise I can hear, excellent dynamics, tonal color, and immediacy. Put them in my 3.6s. Go for it. As for electrolytics it's too bad the Black Gates are no longer available as they have the lowest noise floor or anything I've tried . Imagine a 200 watt/ ch amp with 160,000 uF ps of these!. As an alternative I'd try the Mundorfs, Evox Rifa PEH, or Sikorels, the last of which I've never seen in the US.
Most people, 4 years ago? Maybe. Just a reminder that the first technical "Picking Capacitors" article by Richard Marsh & Walt Jung appeared in Audio magazine in August 1980.

This thread certainly continues to have a high interest level for all of us so keep up the good work!
VN101606 Wow. That cap is huge. Whatever board you end building the new crossover on, mount the inductors on different planes so there's no magnetic interference (note the orientation of the inductors on your board now).
My 17 uF cap is shown in my pics. I played the system with the new XO for over 200 hours - still needed the cable cooker to open things up.
Haven't looked at the Dunlavy's parts values and you might not need it but.... Most people here have not used big caps or inductors in their crossover. If the caps are really big, especially if > 15uF, the Cable Cooker is essential or it will take a verrrry long time to break them in. Burn in both the caps and inductors although the latter are less critical. While you're at it, burn in all your cables even if used and you'll be surprised at the difference (less impact on PCs). It was certainly a revelation to me.
slowikpl  Anything over 10 uF could take at least 200 hrs on the cable cooker and possibly more given the size of them.  You might want to try the Duelund silver foil and wax and oil bypass on a tweeter cap for speakers for that last little bit of high end air.