Hi,
I agree with Ngjockey that bridging will mostly double your voltage whereas you may (MAY) need higher current.
However,from your description it seems that its the raise in temperature trigger the fuse failure.
I would check your power conditioner first - if its regenerator then by removing it you will, most probably will solve the problem.
Next, I would call manufactuurer as no one here knows strenghts and weaknesses of your amps as they are. Prepare SPL/Frequency and Ohm/Frequency data of your speakers. If you can obtain the Phase/Frequency data it would be more informative for Classe people.
I owned Classe a few years ago and it also failed (they save on rail fuses 30 cents or 40 cents) and I had to sent it to them for very expensive repair - I sold it upon return and never touched Classe since and never recommend it to anyone but you have what you have.
Good Luck !
I agree with Ngjockey that bridging will mostly double your voltage whereas you may (MAY) need higher current.
However,from your description it seems that its the raise in temperature trigger the fuse failure.
I would check your power conditioner first - if its regenerator then by removing it you will, most probably will solve the problem.
Next, I would call manufactuurer as no one here knows strenghts and weaknesses of your amps as they are. Prepare SPL/Frequency and Ohm/Frequency data of your speakers. If you can obtain the Phase/Frequency data it would be more informative for Classe people.
I owned Classe a few years ago and it also failed (they save on rail fuses 30 cents or 40 cents) and I had to sent it to them for very expensive repair - I sold it upon return and never touched Classe since and never recommend it to anyone but you have what you have.
Good Luck !