Calling Aerial 20T owners


I just acquired an used pair of 20T V1.

room size is 14 x 18, sources are VPI SSM Ref w/ rim drive, Lyra Skala, Einstein phono, modded Benchmark DAC USB, Einstein pre, BAT 150SE. IC are Audience 24 & Pure Note, speaker wires are Acoustic Zen Hologram II (top) and Audioquest Clear III (bottom). all sit on Grand Prix Audio racks.

due to room size, speakers are 5' from back wall. I had to bi-wire them to remove a bit of bright and edgy top end. not sure if it was the speaker wires or power amp output, I am not getting the "presence" and immediacy like Sonus Faber Amati or Guarneri Memento. I am afraid to use silver speaker cables which will improve the presence, think listening fatigue will set in after 10 min.

want to check with 20T owners:

anyone has success with tube amps?
how far apart do you have them? any toe-in?
how do you move them on carpet? 2-piece construction means I have to take the head unit off every time I want to move a quarter inch.
do you put anything under the speakers? considering some maple block so I can slide them around easily.
Aerial suggests to tilt the speakers up slightly, but after bi-wire I found level sounds better. do you tilt up?

I am happy with the bass response, so I "don't" need more power. but if power will increase upper mid and brings out a bit more presence, snappiness, and immediacy, I will consider a different amp.
semi

Showing 2 responses by raquel

Given your Einstein gear, I would consider the Parasound JC-1 monoblocks, which are a truly differential balanced design. I think they are one of the tiny handful of high-powered solid-state designs that is truly great sounding. In addition, their price / performance / build quality ratio is off the charts due to offshore manufacturing.

As for tube amps, perhaps the obvious choice is the CAT monoblocks, which have the best output transformers and largest power supplies I am aware of in regular production tube amps. My VAC Renaissance 140's can also drive 1-2 Ohm loads and would also work well, but they will not have the oomph of the CAT's, which are 192 lb. snarling beasts that were designed to drive the 83 db. efficient, impedence-psychotic MBL 101's. The downside to the CAT's is the need for very carefully selected output tubes that can withstand the hotrod circuit (my friend nicknamed his JL-1's the "popcorn popper" for what it could do to output tubes). The JL-1 Limited Edition is the best iteration of these amps, featuring all point-to-point wiring (later versions used boards) and output transformers that weigh something like 55 lbs. each - they retailed for $50k and can now be found for $12k-$13k used because people don't know what they are.

I find the bass to be a bit plummy on the V1, and as a consequence, the Parasound or the CAT monoblocks, both of which exert tremendous control in the face of tough loads, would be smart choices.
The CAT amps do not run hot and you would not necessarily have to change interconnects - Neutrix makes very good XLR to RCA convertors that are only about $15/pair if you're smart enough to buy them from an electronics supply store (as opposed to some audiophile outfit that rebrands them and charges 10x more). I use them with a 25 ft. balanced IC when I run my VAC amp. The problem with the CAT amps is output tubes that blow. When one goes, it takes out a resistor, which must be soldered out and a new one soldered in. If each monoblock did not weigh 192 lbs., this would perhaps not be such a big deal, but they are large and weigh a ton, so if you can't solder, you have to schlep them to a repair tech. My friend who had JL-1's recently wrote "In the end, I think those amps are suitable only for someone who has ... skill with a soldering iron and does not mind undertaking a resistor soldering exercise at least once or twice a year. You need that AND the patience/wallet to finance a new set of 16 output tubes about every nine months or so."

I agree that the Parasounds would be the easier move and they are very, very good, but the CAT, especially the balls-out JL-1 Limited Edition, is an amazing amp if you have some patience.

The Rowland 300 series Class D amps, especially the original version with the straight analog power supply, are okay, but the performance of the 201/501 series Class D amps depends largely upon the quality of your home A/C power supply (and thus could sound lousy, especially on a speaker with a ribbon tweeter). The Rowland Model 6 monoblocks, especially if offered with the battery power supplies, are excellent amps (not to mention fully differential balanced).