2. misc-audio
  3. 159132-9347

Built a DIY butcher block and iron pipe rack over the weekend

A lot our decor in our new finished basement is the rustic/industrial trend of wood and iron pipe. A lot of it I have built myself. I wanted a new audio rack so I was doing a lot of searching and set out to build one this past weekend. I am very happy with the result. It is a beast, weighing about 70 pounds. I used 3/4" pipe for the supports and 1.5" butcher block. It was also my first time using a hand rubbed danish oil finish, I always used some sort of poly or acrylic finish in the past. I would love any feedback. My only thing I am not sure of is the footers. I used the round steel floor plates and to avoid scratching the floor I am using a heavy felt pad on each foot. I know some type of point would be more isolating but its hard to blend isolation into decor without it looking wild and keeping the wife happy too. (oh, just don't laugh at my isolators on the preamp, they are temporary until my new ones arrive, I just noticed them in the photo).
https://imgur.com/a/EeMNwcr
128x128jmphotography
sbank's avatar
sbank
3,378 posts
 
Great work! Looks awesome. I did something similar years ago with maple from perfectplank.com and brass hardware from McMaster-Carr. All the parts etc. are in a post on my system thread, if you're looking for ideas. For me, being able to adjust the shelf height easily as gear changes and the deeper top shelf to accommodate a large turntable were key considerations. 
I'm not handy, they're not too tough to make. Cheers,
Spencer
jmphotography's avatar
jmphotography OP
161 posts
 
@diamonddupree Thank you. The rack is 23.5" from floor to top shelf. 10" between bottom and middle shelf and 7.5" between middle and top shelf. The rack is overall 50" in length. 
jtampakes's avatar
jtampakes
2 posts
 
How did you secure the top shelf?  
aberyclark
1,355 posts
 
Very Nice. 
jmphotography's avatar
jmphotography OP
161 posts
 
@jtampakes I drilled a hole on the underside of the top about have the depth of the top thickness. I use a really small threaded nipple just enough to stick up above the coupling but hold the top down securely. I used liquid nails construction adhesive in the hole and then just tapped the top down with a rubber mallet. The hole size was perfect because the threaded nipple was really snug inside the hole. The underside of the top is resting on the union, so it is very solid. I added 2 new images to the album to try and help explain what I did.
https://imgur.com/a/EeMNwcr
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