Building Speaker Cables


I have decided to build my own cables. For the cable I’ve chosen DH Labs T-14 cable for the cable connectors on the speaker side will be Furutech FP-201 (G) spade connectors, amp side will be Furutech FP-200b (G) banana plug connectors. Would it be overkill to silver solder all the terminals before sealing the connections with marine grade shrink tubing?

cgbgreg

Showing 3 responses by mitch2

I have made many cables with both the FP-201 spades that use set screws, and the FP-203 spades that can be crimped, as well as with spades that need to be soldered such as Cardas GRS and CGMS spades.  With the FP-203 spades I have used hand crimpers and, for the past 10 years, hydraulic crimpers to forge a virtually air-tight bond between the spade and wire.  I have not heard any sonic difference that I would attribute to the type of spade or connection.  My only observation is that the Furutech FP-201 and Cardas CGMS spades seem to fit on my binding posts a bit more securely and so I like those two better than most others.

IMO, the OP will be just fine with his plan to use the Furutech FP-201 spades and associated set screws to secure his wires.

@blisshifi 

"If you are worried about oxidation, you can cut off the ends of the wire by half an inch and reterminate them after a few years."

True, but after building cables for many years and taking cables apart to harvest connectors and repurpose wire, I have never seen evidence of visible oxyidation and particularly beneath a crimped connection.  In this case, with silver-plated copper wire, gold plated connectors, and assuming the builder forms a snug crimp and seals the connection with heat shrink, corrosion of the crimp should never be an issue significant enough to affect SQ, IME.  However, because I do not live on a coast near saltwater, and my audio equipment and supplies are kept in a dry environment (i.e., not a damp basement), I do remain open to the possibility that corrosion may be more prevalent in some environments. 

BTW, some cable builders cover the connection with an anti-corrosion compound or goop (before applying the heat shrink) to further retard corrosion.   The following came from a 2-year study of electrical connections in a marine environment:

"The most common causes of corrosion on terminals is electrolysis and galvanic corrosion. Thus, anything that will block this stray current is going to help. The grease should be dielectric. The heavier the grease the better. Cosmolene-type products out perform sprays every time.  

If the joint is remotely tight enough the insulating greases are pushed out of the way and do NOT contribute resistance. You can shoot (dielectric) grease into a crimp and it will do no harm. However, a proper crimp will force all of the grease and air space out of the connector.

We saw no difference in the reliability or resistance of the joint either way. The most important place for grease is spade connectors and other slide-in plugs; these were the only connections where we observed failures. Bolted and crimped connections do not fail when properly made."

Don't know your definition of "overkill" but soldering is not necessary with those connectors and that wire, and you will never reliably discern any sonic difference/improvement from doing so.  Coat the wire and connectors with ProGold, use the set screws to secure the wire to the connectors, add your heat shrink, and enjoy your new cables.  BTW, if you ever decide to upgrade or change your speaker cables, you may be thankful for how easy it will be to repurpose the connectors if they are not mucked up with solder.