Has anyone made a plinth with alternating layers of MDF and
Solid maple? Results? What difference is there with this and birch ply?
Thanks Tessera |
Hi guys,
Thanks for the reply jean. You are right, wood should be the way to go.I've acquired a couple L 75's and the one I have cleaned up a bit (bearing,motor) and stripped of wood does sound better than my LP12 with Lingo supply I A/B'd with, using the same arm and cartridge (Rs a1 arm shelter 501). My L75 seems like an ancient one with a model # in the 2200 range and built in feb. 1968. It did not come with
the standard screw in each corner for affixing to the plinth. anyone encounter an early model like this? How did
you compensate for the shortcoming? Also, looking to sell
an Lp12 and a Lingo if anyone knows any Linnies out there.
Thanks |
Hi guys,
Thanks for the maple/mdf reply jean. A friend of mine owns a small machine shop. I was wondering what would happen if
he bought for me a slab of solid aluminum and followed the
plinth diagrams to hollow out said plinth. Basically 21 by 19 or so and about 4 or 5 inches high. Has anyone considered or attempted this? I don't know about the cost but the aluminum can't cost more than two or three hundred.
Then, the machining coststo hollow it out and buff it etc.
I was thinking that since the high end tables are mostly
solid aluminum,maybe it's the next step up in killing vibrations.
Thanks, |
Does anybody know if there is anyone who builds metal idlers? I am looking for a couple. I have plastic ones with dryed rubber. Also, if anyone has an extra nose spring setting screw for sale, the adjusting screw which holds and adjusts for motor quietness at the end of the motor shaft.
Thanks, Tessera |
Hi Oregon,
Thanks for the condolences. I emailed Sakura Systems with my
problem with the broken arm wire. Yoshi the importer responded like lightning and advised that a new harness is
US 25 plus shipping. I should be able to do the replacement
myself. According to the instructions he wrote, I should be able to fit the tiny wires and solder them to their respective positions. A little dexterity is required and
CARE not damage the new harness as you install it back.
To me, the price seems very reasonable, seeing as this wire is impossible to find. I am ordering two, one for back up.
Also,I think not having to ship the arm is a bonus. I have gone back and forth with emails with Yoshi the last few days, and so far my impression is that he is a proffesional and gentleman.
Thanks Grant I'll check out Home Hardware for the CAMEO. |
Hi Francois,
The serial # on my L75 Lencosaurus is 002734 with a date of
Feb 18,1968 as date of manufacture. I can't post pics as I don't have a digital camera, also, mu computer is a pentium
II running windows 98 and I doubt I could upload pictures. I can say that I played my lenco nude on a couple of bricks and it did best my LP12 Lingo Rs a1 arm shelter 501. That is, with the arm and cartridge hopping between set-ups.It was unfair really, because the Linn has a dedicated stand and is levelled, the Lenco was plopped on a dresser beside it. Now,that was a few days ago,I have cut out five sheets
of the Baltic birch at 3/4 inches thickness since then, and stacked them. I dropped the Lenco innards on the makeshift plinth and spun some vinyl. Now we're talking. Bare and on
bricks it was better than the Linn, now onstacked sheets, it gains real body and depth while retaining everything that made it better in the first place. There is a sense of real flow now, liquid. And best of all the base has solidified and become quite more extended. On the Linn it was fat,lazy and hazy sounding in comparison. I can't wait till I cut out the MDF sheets, along with all the gluing and screwing and bolting, and then sitting down.
Regarding the original tonearm, it was not in the greatest of shape, so I stripped it. If you guys want the parts, you're welcome to them,(SASE)I can check for details if anyone is interested.I have aa few L75's now, and truth be told, I don,t care about the arms as I have the Rs a1 arm. They are the original arms. The Lenco does have the mounts for the four bolts, just that the bolts were missing on mine. All thigs considered, it was in really good condition when I aqcuired it. Rest of my set up;a highly modified Grant pre which replaced an MFA Magus, driving highly modified Bruno Kruegger Monoblocks (210 Glowing watts per)
replacing MFA D75 amp, driving Sonus Faber Cremonas. All mods done by Mr. Israel Blume of Coincident Speaker. All cabling is Coincident, after trial and error. For the money you can't touch his cables. Also, for the last couple of years I have been demo-ing a lot of higher end speakers to replace the Cremonas. Vandersteen 5, Hanson The KING,Stradivarius,Utopia,the big Macs,Colncident and lots of others. The Strads stood out,but I cant afford them.They
grab a hold of you and don't let go. But the Coincidents did so too, at less than a third of the price. They had a tighter, punchier base and were more open sounding, the strads were a little on the dark side but still very much open. I am leaning towards Coincidents as my next speakers for the sound as well the ease of driving them. There is something that seems effortless to me with higher sensitivity and impedance type speakers.
Well that's a lot for now, Cheers |
Hi Kravi4ka,
The RS A1 arm, to my mind is a contender for the ultimate if not outright THE ultimate arm.Every other arm made has a fixed cartridge position,where the cartridge is solidly
screwed on to the arm. If you think of all the valleys and peaks and ridges that a cartridge traverses as the record spins,it's quite the resistive ride. No matter what comes along the needle faces it head strong. There is no other
choice. Whereas with the RS A1 the cartridge just sails
through with no resistance because of the pivoting action of the cartridge. It bends and bobs and weaves through the groove. I believe that because there is less resistance, the
needle sits lower in the groove. I auditioned this arm against SME V, various Origins,variations of the RB 300, on
the same tables. Every time there was no contest. It just flows, with no resistance,whereas other arms give a sense
of something dragging things down, or scrapping against a side of the groove. I owned an RB300 before upgrading,which I had a rewire done to and the counterweight change as well.
With each upgrade the Rega responded very positively,rivaling the highly regarded megabucks arms. It had kick ass base in the upgraded mode as well. But it is not in the same league with the RS A1. In comparison, this arm is smooooooth,liiiiquid,and extremely musical. When you have everything dialed right,especially if you get the spindle to distance and the angle to it; it's strictly goosebumps teritory. It really is that good. At the dealers,
he would demo by playing it on a Rega P3, and an SME V on an $8000 deck. The Rs a1 sounded better. Not base slam better,but better nonetheless. You prefer the presentation
of the rs a1. Now, it is not for everyone. It is a two piece affair,and held together by tiny output leads of the cartridge. Care must ALWAYS be exercised when cuing the arm, or else things can get set in motion quickly with the counterweight bobing around at the back. Also the Phono cable can, if not properly attended to,pull the arm of the turntable. You just have to be extra cautious with this one, thats all. I have heard this arm with all the Shelters, and it's a great synergy. And, with others as well,as long as the holes are not threaded. I personally, cannot accept any other arm, but that's me. JNantais has one as well and I believe he is happy with it. Another thing, where else can you just plonk down an arm on any table and play and compare it to what's installed on said table?
There is one comlaint though. If they couldjust supply the arm with an interconnect harness long enough to godirectly to the Phono input instead of it terminating at the base of the arm, then it would be heaven. Because their wire is so fine and pure,it's incredible. Apparently, it cannot be sourced anywhere.
Thanks Tessera |
Hi Oregon,
I don't know where you live but if you go to SAKURA SYSTEMS on the net, they will take care of you. They are the N. American distributors as well as for 47 Labs. Also, if you live in N. America, they will deal with you directly. I have not tried it with a Denon 103 but JNantais loves that combo. AS for my arm,the other day I started bragging about how wonderful it is on this forum and ....I snapped the tonearm cable lowering VTA as I kept trying out different makeshift armboards on my makeshift/halfbuilt plinth. Ah guess ah jinxed me.
On another note, does anyone know where to find Rubber Renew and Cameo in Canada?
Thanks Tessera |
Hi guys,
Got my replacement RS A1 tone arm wire harness. Hired a pro
to solder the wires on. He also stripped out the old junction box behind the cartridge leads and connected the wires directlyto the RCA jacks. Thus avoiding two extra contact points. Can't wait to break the wires in.
I am working on a plinth 22 x 19 x 8.5. It's laminated and being lacquered black now. Weighs a ton.
The tonearm work above cost me 40 bucks. Cheap, for the delicate work involved. |
Hi Kravi4ka,
Congratulations on your excellent arm purchase. I am sure
that you will have years of enjoyment out of this beauty.
Yes, overhang is 19.6 mm, but you can also experiment. I
position the arm basically like JNantais does in his setups. Except that I may be positioned a little higher vertically as I use a round 3-4 mm rubber spacer under the base of the arm to keep it steady. I don't place the arm on the metal part of the Lenco. I rotated the table (like in JN's pictures)and place the arm on the plinth proper. See JN's Bauhaus Lenco. I did not make a separate arm cutout though, so the arm will rest on laqured MDF. I have some quarter inch bubunga hardwood to make an arm platform and an aluminum one as well as a pink ivory piece. I will experiment as to the best sounding one and laminate it on the plinth. I have a higher platform probably because the Shelter 501 is a taller cartridge. VTF is adjusted with a hex key at the base of the tonearm. Be careful when adjusting because the arm gets excited when things get set in motion and it does'nt take much to get the counterweight swinging and then the arm as it rests on the cup to swing.
Also,always remember that those little tonearm leads are what holds the whole contraption together, just don't force
them to support the weight of the arm by dangling one part. Always use two hands when you handle the arm. I like to grasp from on top at the bearing the armand base together
while supporting the bottom of the base with other hand.
I don't have a digital camera to post a picture. Sorry. I tried the arm with a factory modified benz silver before my 501 and it played better than when it was on a modified Rega. I have an OC 9 and a Rega Elys kicking around but ever since I mounted the 501 I have not bothered to hear these on the RS labs. As to polishing the cup, I have not done anything to mine. For set up info, I have the original papers included in the box, and basically they are the same as the Sakura info. On their website,look for the diagram
of thearm as seen from the top riding in an arc accross the record. Follow that at 19.6 underhang and your in business. The junction box that I had removed from the arm and wired direct was suggested by the designer of the arm
in Japan. I had requested from Yoshi the Sakura head guy a full four foot long arm lead to go directly to the pre.
He called the arms designer to order but he cannot supply that length. As an alternative he recomended to try the mod.After about 2 hours of breaking in it already sounds much more open and direct. Very very worth the effort and cost to do.
Start playing the arm and experiment with VTA, underhang,VTF to your hearts content. You will discover a whole new world of flexibility. For me it was my greatest upgrade. Well that and the Lenco that beat my Linn/Lingo which I am still trying to sell. Enjoy Kravi4ka. |
