Building high-end 'tables cheap at Home Despot II


“For those who want the moon but can't afford it or those who can afford it but like to have fun and work with their hands, I'm willing to give out a recipe for a true high-end 'table which is easy to do, and fun to make as sky's the limit on design/creativity! The cost of materials, including 'table, is roughly $200 (depending, more or less), and add to that a Rega tonearm. The results are astonishing. I'll even tell/show you how to make chipboard look like marble and fool and impress all your friends. If there's interest I'll get on with this project, if not, I'll just continue making them in my basement. The next one I make will have a Corian top and have a zebra stripe pattern! Fun! Any takers?”

The Lead in “Da Thread” as posted by Johnnantais - 2-01-04

Let the saga continue. Sail on, oh ships of Lenco!
mario_b

Showing 9 responses by fishwinker

Hi Mario and Johnnantais,

Thank you for the replies. I've tried adjusting the block, and although I can make it worse, I can't make it any better... As for the wiring, I think it's correct, but where can I check it? Currently, going from left to right across the top, 1st = red wire from the left coil, 2nd = white from left coil, 3rd = white from the right coil, 4th = blue from right coil + jumper from 4th to 5th.
Across the bottom, 1st = switch cable, 2nd = two jumpers to 3rd, 5th = mains, 6th = mains and switch cable.
That sounds very complicated. I'll try to post a picture to make sense of it.

Many thanks.
Well, I couldn't get rid of the hum from the motor, but I tried it out anyway, and WOW!!! Coming from an old Rega P2 with a band well past its best-before-date, the difference is startling. I'm now checking ebay for spare motors or maybe even complete TTs (I think I might be putting one together for my father, sister, girlfriend...)

Many thanks, and long may idlers continue!
Hi Mario,

Thank you very much for your continuing support. I've been listening to it as-is a lot today, and I love it. However, now that it's running, I've realised that it seems to be running too fast - the slider needs to be a lot closer to 33 than 45 when I'm playing a 45. If there's nothing wrong with the motor, and unless something very strange has happened to the electricity supply, I'm thinking that this must mean that the whole rotor/cone assembly is too far towards the nose bearing. I'll try adjusting the nose screw again tomorrow, but I honestly couldn't find any particular point at which the vibration reduced. It really is quite pronounced, and you can actually feel the plinth vibrating when the motor's running(the transport screws are completely free and the motor is suspended freely on its springs).
I've got the speed sorted now (thanks 4yanx) - I'd connected the speed lever control to the idler control arm at a very different point on the slide plate to that which it had originally been fixed. Obvious really - feel rather foolish now!
Still can't get rid of the vibration (it's not a bent cone/rotor as far as I can see), but it seems to have reduced slightly over the last couple of days. Maybe it'll bed itself in and sort itself out, but I'm not sure.
Does anyone have a diagram/picture of the wiring for a Lenco 88? I've just got myself one (the addiction is taking hold!), but the wiring is a complete mess, and I'm simply going in circles with the switch, capacitor, motor and lamp, trying to work out what should be in series or parallel with what. I'm sure it's extremely simple, but I'm going nuts, and I'd rather avoid shorting things if at all possible.
The connector block on the motor has just three single points to screw wires in to, rather than the six pairs of connectors on the newer models (the voltage selection is done with a pin in the top of the motor, like the GL55 motor on Bornin's website).
When I got it, the motor and lamp were permanently on, whether the switch was on or off. I thought the previous owner must have had to fiddle with the wiring because of a faulty switch, but the switch is fine - it makes and breaks two sets of contacts perfectly.
Hi Mario,

Thank you for the link. I think I've sorted out why the previous owner was having problems now - the capacitor has shorted out... I've got the lamp in parallel with the motor, and when I've got a new capacitor it'll go across the other switch - or have I got that wrong? What is the purpose of the capacitor across the switch? I thought capacitors let AC pass...
Just listening to Dinah Washington on my 88 with RB250 with new counterweight and Shure V15 MkIV, through T-Pre and T-Amp and Fostex 168S mounted in Norh 5.0s, with a huge smile on my face. Never heard anything quite so beautiful and satisfying.
Hi Mosin,

It was the motor itself vibrating. I tried everything to sort it out, right down to re-centring the coils, but I just could not nail it. Gave up in the end, and got myself another motor which I was able to make a LOT quieter.

Philip
Hi Everyone,

This is my first post, and I thought I'd managed to get hooked just as the thread disappeared...

I've got myself a LEAK delta version of the Lenco, metal idler wheel and all. I've made a new (very ugly!) plinth from left-over chip-board and pine, but I just can't stop the motor vibrating. I've cleaned and re-greased the bearings and bushes at both ends, and tried to get the spring-loaded screw just right, but no good. The 6 mounting springs seem fine too. Any ideas?