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Boost system performance via isolation?

Hi

I need help.

I found out last year just how important isolating devices can become. I've taken some steps in that direction but feel there may well be a better path than the inexpensive Vibra items. Which for the money surely are worthwhile devices.

In isolating components such as CD player, tubed preamp, and over a hundred pound SS amp. I have a rack from “HE..” (a bit south of Heaven, if that helps).

I do understand the rack itself, plays a big part but I’ve been unable to address that aspect as yet. So I’ve tinkered with it enough so the sound is pretty good now. Using homemade and mainstream products such as Vibra Pods. Currently Vibra-pod cones & pods, as well as doing some ‘layering’. Using a sandwich sort of configuration….

ON each shelf of the rack, from bottom up, I used a piece of ¾” MDF > CONES > ½” particle board (shelf) > Pods > component. Results aren’t bad but i would like to improve upon things, especially with the amp and preamp. Also a 400 disc carosel and a couple lightweight items too such as a DAC and DVD player.

I've done nothing with the amp... just CDP & preamp.

Anyone using something other than ‘Vibra-Pods’ & Vibra-cones, that have seen definite improvements in their system… I would sincerely appreciate hearing from you… and how it changed things… and naturally what those devices are.

I’m not looking to go off for tons of bucks here but would sincerely like to get an idea of who really does make effective isolation devices for components of varying weights andd function… eg., rotating, tubed, SS, etc….

Many thanks
blindjim

Showing 3 responses by jgiacalo

jgiacalo
446 posts
 
I'll second Tvad: 3 vs 4 for stability; contact directly with the chassis - placing under the actual component feet will have negligible effect; ignore the component feet - removing didn't make a difference in my experiments.
Fill the rack with lead rather than sand - seems to work better. You can get lead shot #8, e.g. for about $15/25lbs at a gun shop. Although I've read that powdered iron works best although I have no idea where to get it.
Have fun.
jgiacalo
446 posts
 
A few very inexpensive tweaks to experiment with that have yielded significant audible improvements for me are:
1) place small hardwood blocks between your Vibrapods and the equipment chassis. Experiment with various hardwoods - maple, teak, walnut, etc. although I've found Zebrawood to be the best for both tube and SS components. Use three wood block/Vibrapod combos per component. You should be able to get 1-2' of hardwood boards inexpensively at a local lumberyard or hardwood specialist that you can cut to size - about 1"x1"x2".
2) Attach Dynamat sound-deadening material under the under the particle board shelf. Also, sometimes called Dead-Mat can be found at auto parts stores and is used for deadening metal vibrations when installing speakers in cars. It is a sheet of tarry material backed with aluminum foil and works as a very effective, inexpensive constrained-layer damping material.
3) Put 3-5 lb weights on each component; I prefer brass but most anything will make a difference and reduce/change component resonance.
4) Finally, if you don't already have spikes on the bottom of your rack, consider adding some. Inexpensive brass cones are available from Parts Express in a variety of sizes.
If you can't get scrap hardwood blocks contact me and I'll send you a few extra I have at no cost.
jgiacalo
446 posts
 
Herbies tube dampers make a significant improvement in clarity in tube preamps and Amps. However, try contacting Cesar Moreira [cem@intewe.com] for some very inexpensive heat-resistant tube rings which are almost as good and certainly worth a try for 10-12 dampers for $15. Not sure if they are still available since I haven't seen his listing on A'Gon for a while, but worth contacting him to see if they ar available. I am currently using them on my Mac equipment.
Most of my friends think I'm wacko regarding resonance control. Except for one who has seen significant improvement with his $150/pair Sony speakers, CDP and receiver. Makes me wonder if I would have been as compulsive on the upgrade bandwagon if I'd tried resonance managment on my previous modest systems.
By the way, let me know if you'd like me to send yoou some wood blocks.
One other very cheap and effective resonance control device is the V-Pad. Essentially a ribbed-rubber/cork/rubber 'sandwhich' measuring about 3"x3" and avaliable at heating and airconditioning suppliers for about $2. apiece. The same as the IsoBlocks offered by Mapleshade but lots cheaper.
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