binding posts


If your speakers have 2 pairs of binding posts each, connected by the ubiquitous metal plates, if biwiring or biamping should you remove the metal plates or doesn't it make any difference?

mazian

Showing 3 responses by itsjustme

Also, not only do you defeat the purpose of running the speaker bi- if you don’t remove them, you can damage the speakers.

reply: Only if you cross wire them.

No. You can damage them even if the polarity is correct. Two amps will have slightly different output voltage levels for any given input. The difference exists between the hot (red) terminals of the two amps. The shorting bars short the two sets of terminals together. So if one is driven at a particular moment to 30 volts and the other to 25 volts, you have 5V/ zero ohms = infinite current from one amp to the other.

remove them.

Bi amping allows you to choose one amp that is good for high frequencies and another that is basically a ballsy beast for low.

With bi-wiring there is no danger either way.Bi wiring simply allows two sets of wires to connect to the two. Its pretty subtle. But, removing the straps minimizes cross-drivers impacts (e.g.: the larger back-emf from the woofer) from impacting the higher frequencies. I suspect its a very, very, very small impact.

 

G

Vertical bi-amping huh.

Ok, ok it can be called whatever you want. You can call it a buffalo.  but its just a regular stereo amp in two mono boxes.  So there is no technical difference from normal amps.  If you use the two channels in parallel ... well, there are issues with that that i would avoid.  Too complex to go into. Actually just read what i wrote above and turn it down from 11 to 2.

i will partially disagree that bi-amping is a WOT without a crossover before the amps.  Most midranges and tweeters require modest power, but that's where all the delicacy resides.  Its much harder to reproduce a ~20,000 Hz complex wave than a ~20 Hz complex wave (~ since complex and one freuqency are contradictory). They can be served well by modestly powered, sweet sounding amps. Tubes if you like.  or a nice class-A amp.

OTOH low frequencies demand low output impedance, and high power.  Delicacy on a large, low-Fr wave is somewhat irrelevant.  So a honkin big solid state power amp is ideal.

 

Doing that - even when using the internal crossovers can be useful. Admittedly i have amps coming out my ears ( i design them, and years ago made them) and even i don't bother.

 

I do agree that a crossover between the pre and the two amps, along with control of gain, is better still.

 

G