Biamp question

OP you can bi-amp using the internal crossover within the speakers, just remove the jumpers between the LF and HF terminals. That’s not how I would do it, but it is possible. For me, I would follow russ69’s advice. What russ described is not hard at all and would yield the best results. You can use any number of crossovers including DSP’s but I prefer analog crossovers. I’m not positive what crossover russ is using, but if I recall it’s a DBX223. Looks like the crossover frequency in the speakers you mentioned is 2.8kHz., but you should check your owner’s manual. Literally there are 100’s of choices for an active crossover. I’ve been multi-amping for 42 years using analog active crossovers and I will never go back to using a single amp again. Enjoy!

oldhvy is correct in the bi-amp method, but an active crossover like russ69 mentioned is the better way to do it. You can limit the bass going to the mid/high frequency amplifier, reducing power and intermodulation distortion. This will make both the low and mid/highs much cleaner. An active crossover will also give that much greater ability for you to match the levels of each band. So many crossover choices, from DBX223, TDM24CX-2, many Ashley’s up to the Marchand, Bryston and First-watt at the top, in my opinion. You also have the choice of digital, Behringer and so many other DSP’s. We are all here to help, good luck!

You can bypass the crossover in the speakers or you can leave it the way it is. The danger of disconnecting the internal crossover and running just copper wire between the low end and mid/high frequency drivers is the risk of damage to the midrange driver (the 7" in your case), should a power amp or the active crossover fail. You cannot bypass the upper midrange and tweeter drivers because that would mean you will need to tri or quad amp. I'm tri-amping with 3 stereo amps and a 3-way crossover, I also have 3 subs. The sound improvement with running just copper wire between the drivers and amplifier outputs, for me, is worth the risk of damage to any or all drivers. I recently lucked out during a very rare, (first time in 43 years) when the active crossover in one channel failed sending 500 watts into one woofer and 300 watts into one midrange for about 5 seconds. The tone was relatively high, about 900Hz., but any longer the drivers would have been damaged. Luckly, the tone was below the crossover frequency of the tweeter, so a clipped 200-watts rms signal was not seen by the tweeter! My suggestion is to take small steps. Leave the crossover in the speakers as is and as you get more educated and confident, you can try bypassing the internal passive crossovers one at a time. Enjoy!

avanti1960 - I don't agree with the benefits you've listed, not even one. Nothing is going to give you a flatter impedance or response curve than eliminating those capacitors and inductors. Together with variable crossover points and or a DSP, you will accomplish everything you have mentioned much better and greatly reduce intermodulation distortion. I know you won't agree, but that's what this forum is about, sharing opinions and knowledge. Happy listening, no disrespect intended.

panzrwagn - Looks like you are correct about the 180Hz. crossover point to the 7" driver, guess I missed that. I’m with you on using an active crossover, don’t you think the internal crossover split is at 180Hz. for bi-amping, not 2.8kHz.? +1 to check with Legacy first. I'd be quad amping with 4-way crossovers, but OP should NOT jump to this.