Bi-amping B&W 703's

The only difference you'll see with the pre-amp is, perhaps, the need to turn the gain up slightly. The output voltage for each channel will be split between the two channels of the respective power amp. Of course: each channel will have twice the power available as well. It couldn't hurt to contact Electrocompaniet. Try aiming the tweeters slightly outboard of your listening position(if they're not already). Is your room hard or soft acoutically?

OOPS- Make that: "acoustically"!

Absolutely- Your speaker's crossovers are designed with bi-amping or bi-wiring in mind. Bi-amping affords a much greater sonic gain. Just use two pair of identical, high quality cables for the best benefit. A site with some more insights: (http://www.audiotrends.com.au/documents/BenefitsofBi-wiringandBi-amping.pdf)

Here's a suggestion: Contact B&W yourself, and ask their opinion. You'll find that they recommend the owner passively bi-amp when the means are available.

Ktrauti- Amplifiers with two outputs per channel have an internal circuit that is the same as a Y connector(except perhaps switched). The amplifier would still see the exact same load. Answers like that are probably why that guy isn't working at the TV station any more. The chances of splitting the signal of most pre-amps creating a problem are very slim. There are an awful lot of people out there doing it, as well as recommending it. (http://www.symphonysound.com/articles/biamp.html) (http://www.us.martinlogan.com/pdf/manuals/manual_vista.pdf) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bi-amping) (http://www.soundstage.com/synergize/synergize031998.htm)

Is that an SADC Sony? A lot of people have had them modded to tame a strident top-end. I'm not certain about the other Sony CDP's, but I would upgrade that(or audition something better) before making any other changes. Any kind of curtains between you and those windows? What are you using in the way of interconnects?

My digital source is a BAT VK-D5(6 NOS Siemens CCa's). Analog- a Denon DP-75(custom plinth)/Magnepan Unitrac I/Denon 103D. I'm bi-amping a pair of modded Maggies and some 8' folded, tapered, transmission lines, loaded with Nestorovic 10" woofers(I build them in 1980 to go with the Acoustat Model III's I had then). The highs are powered by a pair of Modded Cary SLM-100's(TungSol 6SN7GT round plates/Sylvania 6SN7W/JAN CHS) and the lows- A modded Hafler TransNova 9505. I'm using a TacT RCS 2.2Xaaa to split the signal. Being single(again), the room was treated with a goodly amount of Auralex and LENRD bass traps(not the cause of my singularity though). I use Kimber's KS-1130 interconnects, and Wireworld Eclipse5(top)/Kimber 8TC(bottom) speaker cables. Does your system sound as bright using your NAD as the source? I'd be willing to bet your Sony is deficient in the mids and lows, making the system sound too thin. You've got decent gear. How close is your listening position to the speakers?

Music has been a great love of mine for that past 45 years. If what I hear in the home doesn't live up to what I hear live(two or more times a week, acoustic and amplified), I can't get enthused at all. Most of what I own didn't cost much but my time to mod it(and the parts). The most expensive pieces were the VK-D5 and TacT(about 5K each), then there's the cabling. The cost of NOS tubes nowdays is what's scary. By all means: If you can audition a Rega CDP in your home- do so(before making other changes). That will answer whether the problem is source related. I've never heard anyone describe Electrocompaniet gear as bright. It can't hurt to take them to the dealer, but there are a lot of variables that way(different room, speakers, source, wires). Then again: If they do sound bright in his system too.....