Bi-amping????

Passive biamping with a 100x2 amp is not like sending 200 watts to your speaker - it's merely a very common misconception.

The usable power going to your speakers is really still only 100wpc since that is the maximum power dictated by the voltage swing available from the amplifier.

Now, OTOH, if these amps can be bridged you would have a meaningful increase in output voltage swing as bridging operates the channels inverted from each other. When the channels operate inverted you get up to twice the voltage swing and twice the voltage swing means 4x power - provided the amp's power supply can keep up, that is.

In most general discussions, passive biamping refers to using the speakers internal crossover vs an external crossover - although there are external passive crossovers too.

Vertical biamping refers to using the left and right outputs from one amp driving their own section of one speaker.

Horizontal biamping refers to using the channels of one amp for the lows of the left and right speaker, and then another amp to drive the mid/highs of the left and right speakers.

Don't worry about the power, you are making much ado about nothing. The cardinal rules are turn it down if the speakers start making strange noises, or if the sound takes on a harsh and or flat, non-dynamic sound.

One of the biggest benefits of active biamping is being able to tailor the amp to the specific needs of the speaker section it is driving.

For example, in an active biamp situation, if the mid/hf section requires 50 watts and the low section requires 200 watts, then a 50 watt amp and a 200 watt amp are all you need. This works because each amp only has to be sized to match the voltage swing necessary for the filtered range of frequencies being amplified.

In contrast, in the typical passive biamp arrangement, if you are using a 200 watt amp for the lows, you also need (should have) a 200 watt amp for the mids/hf. This is because even though the mid/hf amp is actually using only a small percentage of power from that 200 watt amp, that mid/hi amp still has to be capable of reproducing the entire voltage swing of the full range/unfiltered signal. If it cannot because a smaller amp is used, the waveform to the mid/hi will clip before the amp driving the low will clip.

Yup, pretty much straight from the amp to the drivers.

Not necessarily take out the passive crossover, but at least bypass it.

Yes, electronic crossover or sometimes passive crossover before the power amps so they only amplify a limited range of frequencies intended for the specific drivers.

To do it is often not very practical or necessary (IMO) for most home audio situations. The crossovers designed these days for good speakers work pretty well. I think it would be hard for the average person to improve upon the built in passive design in most cases.

This will probably be my last post re this particular situation.

I just want to conclude that the chances to make the sound worse by continuing down what seems to be your chosen path is much more likely than it is to improve the sound.

While it is really none of my business, why are you seeming so dead set on forcing your setup to a biamp configuration?

If you can't tell, I'm really trying to discourage you from tearing apart your speakers and buying a bunch of stuff that, in the end, has a high possibility of sounding worse.