Better Subwoofer for 2 channel Music: Focal Utopia Sub or JL Fathom f113


Hello Everyone,

I am looking for a good sub at about the 2K price point and am considering either the Focal Utopia Sub (15" woofer, 1000W RMS) or the JL Fathom f113 V1 (13.5" woofer 2500 RMS)- The fathom being slightly more expensive on the ’used’ market.  Both subs are highly rated and the Fathom seams to be very highly regarded on this site so I would like to try it. At the same time, my speakers are FOCAL Utopia BE series so I think the Utopia Sub will gel nicely and I would be able to save several hundred bucks to put towards other tweaks if I went with the focal sub. Currently I have a Monitor Audio Gold 12 Sub (12" woofer 600W RMS) which is very good, but want to see if either the Utopia or the Fathom is much better,  and I mostly use the Monitor Audio in my HT set up anyway.

Specs wise:

Focal Utopia BE Sub  - 15" woofer, 1000W RMS

JL Fathom f113 V1  - 13.5" woofer 2500W RMS

Both subs go down to ridiculously low Hz.

Usually, I am less into specs and more about hearing music (and not sure how important these specs are anyway) but I am not able to audition either of the subs (let alone in my system) , so kinda shooting in the dark and would appreciate some advise on which way to go as these are also heavy and expensive to move around to deal with!.

I imagine I will keep the new sub for a while.

I’d like the sub to merge with my speakers as seamless as possible, and provide that extra lower-level feeling and punch when needed.

Does anyone have experience with either (or both to compare)? Thank you in advance.


Aside -   My 1 pair of preamp LXR-outs is taken up by the connection to the Amp. So I would connect the sub via one of the two remaining RCA outs from my preamp - is there is a better way?

Ag insider logo xs@2xjmarshak
akg_ca:
"Ideally, you want two subwoofers so that you have true stereo separation down deep into the bass. Stereo subs can also help to lessen room interaction problems by providing two discrete sources of bass information."

Hello akg_ca,
   Your statement cited above is not accurate.  Two subs will not and cannot provide true stereo separation down deep into the bass. The information below, however, is accurate and useful to know:
   
     Virtually all humans are unable to localize deep bass frequency soundwaves that are below about 100 Hz.  This means we cannot determine where the sound of bass tones are coming from that are below about 100 Hz.  But we're very good at localizing higher frequency soundwaves in the remainder of the audible spectrum, from about 100 to 20,000 Hz.
      This is the reason there's no such thing as 'true stereo' deep bass and why the bass is summed to mono on frequencies below 100 Hz on all vinyl and cd recordings. If you doubt this, try to find a single vinyl lp record or cd on which the bass is not summed to mono and has discrete L+R bass content recorded. This means it's pointless to configure subs in a stereo configuration with one located by the left main speaker and one by the right.  A better approach is to simply operate all subs in mono mode. 
      However, thanks to psychoacoustics and our remarkable brains, it is possible to create the perception of stereo bass in our systems. Here's how it works:
     Whether you use 2, 3 or 4 subs, run them in mono and optimize the bass at your listening seat. The bass below 100 Hz won't be able to be localized but there are bass harmonics or overtones of the deep bass fundamental frequency that extend into higher frequencies that are reproduced by the main stereo speakers and can be localized. Our brains are able to associate the fundamental deep bass frequency reproduced by the subs, that are not able to be localized, with the deep bass's higher harmonic frequencies, that extend well beyond 100 Hz, which are reproduced by the main speakers that are able to be localized. This psychoacoustic association allows us to localize the deep bass in the soundstage, for example the kick drum is located in the rear center and the upright bass is located in the front to the left, which would not be otherwise possible without this psychoacoustic association our brain's are capable of.  
     Other factors I think are important to integrating subs seamlessly with the main speakers are the subs volume levels and the crossover frequency setting.  For best results, the precise level of these settings will vary by system, the main speakers and the subs used.     
     My main speakers are a pair of 6'x2' Magnepan 2.7QR 3-way planar-magnetic dipoles that are very detailed and smooth but have limited bass extension (down to only 35 Hz) and limited bass impact and dynamics.  To provide the missing bass extension and impact, I use an Audio Kinesis  4-sub Debra  distributed bass array (DBA) system that is very similar to their Swarm system, consisting of four relatively small passive subs with 10" aluminum long-throw drivers powered by a separate class AB 1K watt amp/control unit. 
     My goal was to keep the perception of the four dynamic subs as low as possible, have them only become active when the source material required it and to blend in with my main speakers as seamlessly as possible to attain a cohesive unity to the overall sound quality.  I've achieved the best performance and integration results thus far by running my mains full-range with the subs' volume level set at about 45% and a cutoff frequency of 40Hz.  I believe using multiple subs with smaller and quicker 10" drivers, rather than larger but slower12-15" drivers, allowed the bass to better match the accurate, agile, detailed and smooth sound qualities that the Magnepan main speakers possess, resulting in a seamless blending or integration between the subs and mains.
     I agree that many systems will achieve significant improvements in overall sound quality by utilizing the high frequency pass thru connections for the L+R main speakers on most subs and the Swarm/Debra's amp/ control unit.  This is because the main speakers and their amps are relieved of the need to reproduce deep bass frequencies (usually with a cutoff of about 80 Hz) which usually results in improved midrange and treble performance from the main speakers and amps combination.  I tried this method but didn't notice significant improvements in the midrange and treble performance of my Magnepans and D-Sonic mono-block amps combination.  My thought is that, since these class D mono-blocks are capable of outputting 1,200 watts into my 4 ohm main speakers, the relief on the power requirements gained from the amps and speakers not being operated full-range didn't result in the normally significant sound improvements in mid-range and treble response attainable with less powerful amps and different main speakers.
     However, I realize every system is unique and suggest trying out both configurations, running the mains full-range and with restricted low frequency output, to determine which you like best.
   
 



Tim  
When you try the JL (I'm quite sure you'll be happy with it), just make absolutely sure that you have it located a minimum of 2ft closer to your listening position than your main speakers!!! There is latency in the subwoofer circuitry, which will delay the sub's signal by at least a few milliseconds. This means that if you add delay (adjust the phase on the JL) the best you can hope for is to be a full wavelength behind the main speaker's bass output, making perfect integration impossible. And any sub with digital circuitry is receiving an analog signal from the amp, converting it to digital (A-D latency), then manipulating it via digital crossover, digital EQ, etc. (more latency), then converting it back to analog (D-A latency) before the signal gets to the driver. The amount of latency varies by manufacturer and design, but it's there. So don't line the sub up with the mains!!!

A perfect subwoofer integration with a high-end stereo requires that (A) the stereo be setup perfectly without the sub, and (B) the sub is setup to roll into the system at the point where the mains give up. This is easier to do if you have sealed main speakers. A bit harder with stats and dipole speakers. And much harder with ported speakers, which usually have surprisingly good anechoic measurements and surprisingly bad in-room response - they often run out of gas around 60Hz and come back with a vengeance around 40HZ (in room), making perfect sub integration difficult. Fortunately, the very low frequencies are more felt than heard. so if you do it right you can get a nice response curve and a visceral gut punch when it's called for.
The only way to not localize a sub, unless it's crossed over hard below 50Hz, is to make sure it's timed perfectly to coincide with the mains. Anything else will sound like a pair of speakers and a sub. If the timing is perfect, it will be glorious!

BTW, I've had lots of audiophiles with Wilsons, Focals, Magenpans, Soundlabs, Vandersteens, etc. tell me that a sub in a 2-channel system is a travesty. And then I measure their system and show them that those high-price speakers aren't putting out ANY accurate information below about 40Hz (again, in-room response). So they're not hearing anything lower than the lowest note on a Fender Bass. No pipe organ bass. No low synth bass. None of the beautiful bass harmonics that the strike on a tympani makes.

If you don't have the fundamentals at <20-40Hz you also don't have any of the rich harmonics that should naturally cascade all the way up into the upper bass ranges. To miss this information is to miss much magic.
A properly integrated subwoofer is a game-changer that you can never un-hear. And an improperly integrated subwoofer will mangle an otherwise adequate system. Do it right, or don't do it!
@audiophil,
BTW, I've had lots of audiophiles with Wilsons, Focals, Magenpans, Soundlabs, Vandersteens, etc. tell me that a sub in a 2-channel system is a travesty.
I won't speak for Wilson, Focal, or your audiophile friends,  but I can say that for Magnepan, Sounlab and Vandersteen, subs, especially Vandersteen subs work extremely well. The use of the high pass filter allows fairly seemless integration. The new Sub 3 subs offers equalization which makes placement even less of an issue.
Bob
gdnrbob: 
"I won't speak for Wilson, Focal, or your audiophile friends, but I can say that for Magnepan, Soundlab and Vandersteen, subs, especially Vandersteen subs work extremely well. The use of the high pass filter allows fairly seemless integration. The new Sub 3 subs offers equalization which makes placement even less of an issue."

  Hello Bob,
     The main point of properly positioning subs in a room, whether it's 1 or 4 subs, is making sure there's not a bass room mode (a spot in the room where the bass sounds exaggerated, attenuated or nonexistent due to bass sound waves and their reflections colliding with one another at various spots in the room) at your listening seat.  Equalizers are able to correct bass mode peaks (heard as bass exaggeration and boominess) at the listening seat but are very limited in their ability to correct bass mode dips and nulls(heard as bass attenuation and nonexistence respectively) at the listening seat because this requires large amounts of amplifier power to correct, the lower the frequency requiring boosting the higher the power required.
      Also, a properly setup and configured Audio Kinesis or custom 4-sub distributed bass array (DBA) system will provide near state of the art bass performance quality not only at the designated listening seat position but throughout virtually any room and seamless integration with any pair of main speakers, including Wilsons, Soundlabs, Vandersteens, Magnepans or any other supposed "difficult to integrate subs with" main speakers.  Here's a link to a professional review that gives a very accurate description of what bass performance quality level to expect.

https://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/audiokinesis-swarm-subwoofer-system/