Best way to clean glossy finish on speakers?

@emergingsoul 

I make furniture and cabinetry. What you are probably dealing with is a polyester lacquer, the same type used on Pianos. First off, it depends how deep the "scratches" are. Scratches you can not feel with the edge of your fingernail are called swirl marks. They are very easy to remove. Scratches you can feel with your fingernail are a bit harder but can be done. Then there are gouges that make their way into the underlying substrate, in this case probably wood. These will require an expert at finish repair. Cleaning and swirl removal can be done producing a mirror shine with Menzerna 3500 and a microfiber polishing cloth. Squeeze a little 3500 on the speaker and rub briskly in straight lines following the wood grain doing a section at a time then wipe off with a clean microfiber cloth. You could also use a random orbital polisher and a foam polishing pad. In my experience Menzerna is better than any of the American companies except maybe 3M.  You can use the 3500 every day for the rest of your life and you will never go through the finish. 

Taking  deeper scratches out is a more involved process taking several different compounds and a machine polisher. 

After using the 3500 you do not have to put anything else on the speaker. You will just worsen the shine. I get Menzerna products from AutoGeeks online. 

@macg19 ,

You can get into a lot of trouble with a rotary polisher. You can burn right through the finish. However with Menzerna 3500 and a foam polishing pad on a random orbital polisher it is virtually impossible to get into trouble. You would have to throw the polisher at the speaker. It would take hundreds if not thousands of polishings to get through the finish and it is impossible to burn through the finish. You can't generate enough heat. The Cyclo is another safe finishing device but I find it clumsy to work with.

@vandy357  CQ Quartz UK formula. Lasts three years in New England. You have to rub out the finish first and use a professional surface cleaner like CarPro Multix. If you leave anything like fingerprints or water spots on the paint you will seal them right in and the only way to get them off is to rub the panel off and start all over. This is true for any of these products. First time around it is best to do a white or silver car. If you do a black car you will wind up committing suicide.  

@dabel ,

Festool makes excellent gear. Their sander s are top notch. The problem is the price. At times they try to hard to be different like the Domino tool. Having buried myself in Milwaukee batteries I generally stick to their tools and I have not had a bad one. The one exception is Fein, another german company. I use their vacuum for dust capture on all my hand power tools and I have a 1/2 sheet Fein sander that I can't kill and I have used it to sand floors! I use a Lamello Plate joiner and Porter Cable routers.

@vandy357 

You asked about a ceramic product and I told you. After rubbing out with a fine polishing compound like Menzerna 3500 all you need to do is wipe off occasionally with a fast evaporating product one would normally use for cleaning windows but without the blue dye. I use 50% isopropyl alcohol in distilled water and a cotton or microfiber cloth. You could also use a quick detailer. Most clear coat finishes on modern loudspeakers are going to be polyester which is extremely tough, tougher than acrylic lacquer. 

@dabel 

I use the 690 in various bases depending on the mission. My Plunge router is a 7539 and I use a 75182 in a router table configuration. I also have a 10 hp 3 phase SCMI spindle molder and the scars to prove it. I use the 303 1/4 sheet sander. It is faster at 12,000 RPM. My Fein 1/2 sheet sander will hit 14,000 rpm, what a machine!