Benefits of an external DAC


I need a sounding board from you folks.  I have a slightly upgraded Oppo 103 CD player that was a big SQ improvement over my Consonance tube CD player.  I need a DAC to take the stream from my iMac, turn into an analogue signal to my preamp.  Lots of folks rave about the benefits of an external DAC so, in progression, I got a Jolida tube DAC, a Schiit Gungnir, and a Channel Island Audio DAC.  I connect the Oppo to the CIA DAC with a coaxial cable.  I input the analogue signal from the Oppo into my preamp with RCA IC's.    

It is easy to switch between DAC in the path vs. the Oppo analogue signal straight into the preamp.  I tell ya, I have done the comparison between all three DAC's vs. the analogue signal run from the Oppo to the preamp and have been unable to discern any difference.   Zero, zip, nada.  I have done the comparison with lots of audio pals and nobody hears a wits worth of difference.

There clearly are lots of devotees using external DAC, but in my system (with a Don Sachs tube preamp, Pass Labs First Watt F5, and Spatial Audio M4 Turbo S speakers, with good cabling), I am perplexed as to why the use of an external DAC makes no difference in the SQ in my system. It sounds exactly the same.  

I am awaiting a demo of a Denafrips Ares DAC to see if this well-regarded DAC does something to the SQ -- one way or another.  So far, the employment of a DAC to improve the SQ of the signal from my Oppo has been an utter waste of time.  What am I missing?
whitestix

Showing 3 responses by shadorne

@audioengr

Interesting. You advocate feeding a DAC with low jitter. However we all know that this is next to impossible as jitter is inherent in cabling and the way the clock timing is detecting at the receiving end.

I would say it makes equal sense to focus on a DAC that has the technology to reject all and any incoming jitter thoroughly below -140 dB. Is there something you don't agree with in designing robust mathematical algorithms and electronics to reject all jitter?
@mahler123

I suspect the Mytek and Bryston DACs you tried are both Stereophile Class A or A+ ?

My suggestion to the OP is to try a Class A+ DAC. IMHO that will yield a subtle improvement over the Oppo. The Oppo is obviously very good value so a lot depends on the OP willingness to spend 1000+ extra dollars to get somewhat diminishing returns. Obviously in the $1000 range the Oppo holds its own.

I’d suggest Stereophile Class A+ in the $2000 to $5000 range and not too expect "day and night" improvement but more of a subtle difference. A difference that can be appreciated by a discerning listener but not necessarily blindingly obvious in A to B switching against the Oppo.

I would also recommend to NOT use the preamp between DAC and poweramp but minimize the signal path - each additional set of electronics risks adding unwanted noise and distortion and Class A+ products will have excellent quality output in their own right.
They should sound extremely close if everything is working properly. Especially if the electronics is all built and tested to a high standard. You might need to invest more to get a subtle difference.

Try a Benchmark DAC3 straight into the balanced input of your power amp. You can return it if you don't find an improvement.