your phono line level out simplifies things quite a bit. An Integrated, tube or SS will keep things simple. I like tubes, mine are quiet, however you might want to stay SS for ’black background’.
I want remote volume and remote balance from my listening position. First verify system balance is perfect, then, the occasional track comes along that benefits greatly from a small balance tweak.
To keep it simple, look for an integrated with remote balance. I found it is very hard to know,
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/remote-balance-control-on-tube-integrated-amp
many makers don’t bother showing their remotes, and even if they do, if it has a balance feature, it may not be a separate button, it might be buried in the menu. You might need to download the manual, read it to find out.
Adds 1 device, 1 more set of cables: I run everything thru a Chase RLC-1 Remote Line Controller, then into my Integrated’s bypass input (skips it’s own volume/controls, straight to the amp.
Signal to Noise: 120db. Zero Noise, I cannot tell if it is in or out when I try.
RLC-1 has remote switching 4 inputs, volume, balance, mute (handy), and treble/bass which I don’t use, but, for something sounding ’bad’ I could tame it, make it listenable at least.
this listing ended but it shows it well
https://reverb.com/item/12411621-chase-rlc-1-remote-line-controller
Another great feature, IF implemented correctly, is the built-in Fletcher Munson curve for low volume listening, many/most modern equipment does not include that.
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/which-component-has-the-greatest-affect-on-low-level-listenin...
I’ve said many times, I wouldn’t live without my RLC-1.
Unusually, because it's from the early Quad era, it has two sets of outpus: 'front' and 'rear' They are identical. I used them to go back and forth between two amps: My McIntosh SS MC2250 (tested accurate to 305 wpc) and my vintage fisher 80Z, (30 wpc tubes). Everyone chose tubes over SS.
I want remote volume and remote balance from my listening position. First verify system balance is perfect, then, the occasional track comes along that benefits greatly from a small balance tweak.
To keep it simple, look for an integrated with remote balance. I found it is very hard to know,
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/remote-balance-control-on-tube-integrated-amp
many makers don’t bother showing their remotes, and even if they do, if it has a balance feature, it may not be a separate button, it might be buried in the menu. You might need to download the manual, read it to find out.
Adds 1 device, 1 more set of cables: I run everything thru a Chase RLC-1 Remote Line Controller, then into my Integrated’s bypass input (skips it’s own volume/controls, straight to the amp.
Signal to Noise: 120db. Zero Noise, I cannot tell if it is in or out when I try.
RLC-1 has remote switching 4 inputs, volume, balance, mute (handy), and treble/bass which I don’t use, but, for something sounding ’bad’ I could tame it, make it listenable at least.
this listing ended but it shows it well
https://reverb.com/item/12411621-chase-rlc-1-remote-line-controller
Another great feature, IF implemented correctly, is the built-in Fletcher Munson curve for low volume listening, many/most modern equipment does not include that.
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/which-component-has-the-greatest-affect-on-low-level-listenin...
I’ve said many times, I wouldn’t live without my RLC-1.
Unusually, because it's from the early Quad era, it has two sets of outpus: 'front' and 'rear' They are identical. I used them to go back and forth between two amps: My McIntosh SS MC2250 (tested accurate to 305 wpc) and my vintage fisher 80Z, (30 wpc tubes). Everyone chose tubes over SS.