Waterproofing should go on the outside and should start a few inches above the grade and extend to the footing (dimple board would be my choice). A footing drain would run the perimeter to carry the water away to daylight. This is the most expensive way but if you can do it, you won't have to worry about it again. If the system is on the interior then you are managing moisture inside a conditioned space which is not favorable but can be done with mixed results. If you go with metal studs hold the wall an inch off the masonry and use a closed cell spray foam. It will create a thermal break and minimize the potential for condensation. Spray foam will also help dampen any vibration from the metal studs. You can cover the walls with 1/2" sheetrock after that. Closed cell foam can be run thinner than open cell which has to be done twice but is a bit cheaper. This is probably the most expensive way but it works. I have no call-backs using this method except when a landscaper built the soil up too high in one spot.Drop ceilings are the most accessible for future upgrades and the panels come in a pretty wide variety of styles now but sheetrock with recessed cans looks much better and no matter what you put on the ceiling, it's going to be a reflective surface to some degree and need some kind of treatment. Good luck with it
Basement finishing question
Hi all, I'm about to finish an unfinished basement. My first and main question is; Has anyone used metal studs to do the job? Everything is so expensive right now! Also, is waterproofing the walls good or bad? I've read conflicting thoughts online. I'd like to do it right the first time. I'm also thinking about not finishing the ceiling. There are prefabricated joists that are open effectively giving me a ten foot high ceiling! I may or may not do it myself. Thoughts? Thank you. Joe