Back into vinyl - part 1


About five years ago, while I was living nice, quiet, and boring vinyl-less life, I run across some very nice LPs while walking around my local flee market. I got rid of all my records years ago, almost immediately after Sony and Philips promised us all “Perfect Sound Forever”. My music life was easy and simple, few hundred of my CDs were complemented by couple hundred cassettes and only sometimes I was wondering how come some of my cassettes sounded very obviously better than CDs.
But I would not let these thoughts bother me – digital was better, period. Doesn’t every manufacturer of audio equipment say so for 20 years now?
Anyway, the albums I run across were so dear to me and so impossible to find on CDs that I bought them, without even thinking about the fact that I had absolutely no idea how to use them. Did they even sell turntables anymore?
Being a nerd I started searching the Net for information and to my surprise discovered that not only they still sell TTs, but there is a whole range of them, from 50 Presidents all the way to tens of thousands.
I was considering getting me some of those 78s, so three-speed machine was needed. I quickly found a site of KAB Electro-Acoustics, and called the guy.
Kevin was very helpful and knowledgeable. After hearing my pathetic story he very kindly described me current situation on the marked and few days later I was a proud owner of KAB Broadcast Standard, equipped with Shure V15VxMR.
The LPs that I bought sounded amazing. They were almost 40 years old, though in very good condition, but the sound was so real that no CD could even touch it.
Bare in mind, my system was nothing to write home about – middle-of-the-road ES Sony CD player, amplifier and cassette deck and Mission speakers.
And then I found audio forums.
OK, I have to admit – I am always questioning my knowledge. Even when I am 100% sure about something, there will always be a thought buried somewhere deep inside, saying “What If You Are Wrong?”
So I started asking questions and in return heard condolences about my TT and really stupid explanations about why direct drive is inferior to belt drive. Someone even quoted well-respected magazine reviewer stating that DD table is constantly changing speed at a rate of about 3500 times a second, which is quite audible.
I bought it.
I sold my KAB table (surprisingly very close to the original price), in my heart blaming Kevin for selling me this junk, and got myself a … well, I don’t think I should use any more names here – it is really irrelevant. Let’s just say that the table was listed at $750 and at that price point is considered to be a de facto standard in audiophile world.
Well, this is where my problems started. First, the damn thing was running fast. I was trying to get my dealer to fix it with no positive outcome. “The table is flawless” was the answer. Oh and did I mention “No Returns” policy?
Running fast, switching between speeds was a nightmare, and then in 2000 they released an updated motor in which was supposed to fix speed deviation problem (what problem?) which set me back another $150. With no positive outcome.
I had to let it go, losing a lot of money in the process.
What do you think I did next? Correct, I bought another belt-driven table from different manufacturer. It was about twice as expensive as my first one and was coming from the company that is even more respected in audiophile world.
The construction of the table was very unusual. Almost as unusual as one of the first models from this company, shown in one of Stanley Kubrick’s movies.
Built quality seemed to be better, but as I discovered, in order to achieve best results, I needed much better tonearm, special power supply etcetera, etcetera… Oh and did I mention that you can’t really clean the record on this table? Friction between the belt and the platter is too low for it…
I got back to the previous company and purchased their just-released top of the line model. Exotic materials used for platter, outboard power supply, fancy words used in its description… I was not as stupid as I used to be, so I purchased it from Canada, thus loosing my US warranty, but saving about 30%.
Well, what do you know? The table was running fast! The brilliantly engineered power supply did not allow for speed adjustments without knowing the schematics and friendly technical support staff of the manufacturer was too friendly to respond to my request.
Another bummer.
I was getting smarter. No more purchases, I said to myself, before I am sure I know what I am buying.
Very famous and very local manufacturer just released reasonably inexpensive model, which I borrowed from my local dealer. Build quality was so low that I still don’t understand how people can actually mention the word “quality” when talking about this table? Platter bearing was loose, table was running slow and besides the motor was running hot as hell. I called the company with my questions and they responded that bearing has to burn-in (oh really?) motor has high operating temperature and speed can be easily adjusted by using their power generator costing a mere $1000! Thanks!
I tried few more tables. The more expensive they were getting, the more I was shocked by their poor quality.
I got tired. My vinyl collection was several hundred LPs by now but I had no means of listening and enjoying.
Then I called Kevin.
I told him about my experience and my frustration and his simple and knowledgeable words got me back to real world.
I have a degree in electrical engineer for crying out loud, cant’ I do something?
And I did.
To be continued…
alex_yakovlev

Showing 17 responses by psychicanimal

Zaikes, my first attempt at rewiring ended in having to buy a new tonearm. The clips have to be soldered back in the exact same position or else the spring loaded mechanism in the collar will not work properly at making contact with the headshell pins. I think the most cost effective (and sensible approach) is to desolder the tonearm leads from the circuit board and send the entire tube ( and/or the circuit board ) for cryo treatment. The wire leads could then be burned in with a cable cooker or a square wave generator function and a computer.

Johnmathias, there is a 1200 for sale in the classifieds. The 1200 has continuously variable pitch and an electric brake. Cool!
The "Creature on Steroids" is a world class performer. Now that I have placed an expensive (and very quiet) 9.5 ga power cord on my Monolithic's dual mono power supply it has become evident that the Creature is faster than my phonostage--and I have yet to rewire the tonearm and change ICs and use cryo'ed, shielded DC wire!!!

Stunning is the word I'd use...
I have not replaced the internal wiring, but it will be done sometime in the future. Also, the shorter the distance the better.
The 1200's tonearm is not bad at all. It just needs some control ( it's heavier than its titanium predecessor ) and the fluid damper gives it just that. The tonearm has no ringing, it's bent at two unequal length to prevent standing waves and the counterweight is damped. The unit is a true gimbal design with high quality bearings w/ extremely low friction.

In my tonearm I am using Marigo discs in strategic locations with great succes.
Johnmathias, you are waiting too long! Gino, did the people who installed the Rega arm use the same tonearm wire and phono IC's as the 1200? If the answer is no, then the comparison is not valid. The 1200's stock wiring leaves a lot to be desired and that's my next step in modding the Creature...
Alex, replacing internal wiring is simple but not easy. I already lost a tonearm on my first attempt.
The toneram rewiring requires to make a spacing jig. The distance from the collar to the clips must be EXACTLY equal to the originals or the spring loaded gold plated pins will not work properly. Also, the soldering temperature must be exact and the technique flawless otherwise the plastic will melt. Technics does not sell arm tubes--only the complete arm but it's only $65-70. I can look around and find if I still have the messed up tube.

So far the #1 candidate for tonearm wire is the Van Den Hul solid core silver. I am also thinking of the new Cardas ($11.50 ft), but am wary of copper "warmth" being introduced in my system as I use Ridge Street Audio silver interconnects and military surplus silver plated copper for speaker wire.
I have replaced the DC power lead from the stock 24 ga to 18 ga solid core copper from Radio Shack. The improvement was almost as radical as installing the power supply. Installing a cryo'ed power cord in the outboard power supply also is a dramatic improvement. Anything power related upgrade is noticeable at this level. Everything's audible...

I figure cryo'ed, silver plated wire (12ga) should be really fantastic. Also, replacing the internal DC wire should provide some real positive results.

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As much as I like him, Kevin has some lessons to learn in the instant power delivery department...

I learned this approach from Nightdoggy, who told me is an EE and modded his 1200 without resorting to an outboard power supply. He actually claims an outboard power supply is not the right thing to do. Instant power delivery/lowered resistance is his approach. Everything I've done in this area results in less stylus drag--each and every time.

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Zaikes, I haven't heard Nightdoggy's creature, though he sent me a detailed e-mail describing what he did. Basically, he reengineered/rerouted the quartz lock circuitry and used the best Panasonic electrolytic capacitors for feeding DC current to the platter. Tom's got his own mindset, just like Alex Yakovlev. I just learn from them and apply what's feasible.

And yes, instant speed improvements translate into better music. Go to Rat Shack and buy two terminals and some 18 ga wire. Solder the thing after twisting the conductors and get back to us. Then get some VenHaus cryo'ed 18 ga solid core hookupwire and enjoy the new upgrade...

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The reason Kevin is coming up with more mods and more selection of 1200 models is simple: he's selling them right and left.

It was all a matter of having the first few modded ones out there...now people are comparing them to other so-called 'audiophile' decks and they're not performing even close!

Qualityman,

Kevin showed me the link to those feet. Let us know how they perform when you get them...

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The damper improves compatibility issues with different cartridges by addressing resonance.
One of my guys modded the power supply in his 1200. He does not advocate the outboard power supply, though:

I have heavily reworked my 1200 and it's pretty insane. Don't pay too much for this power supply if that's what it is because there is little to it. The main (theoretical) advantage might be in getting the mains power transformer (very well shielded in the 1200) out of the chassis, although I notice zero 60 Hz hum with a Denon high gain moving coil pre-preamp with my 1200. 60 Hz hum would be transformer noise as opposed to 120 Hz "buzz" which is the sound of a noisy diode(s) in the bridge rectifier. Shottkys eliminate this. Also there is a major advantage to leaving the power supply inside. Because it is virtually riding on the motor coil windings, the impedance is practically zero and so minute current surges supplied to the motor by the power supply when speed corrections are called for (such as on the rise of a slight warp when the motor literally has to lift the arm) are instantaneous. If the power supply is too far away and or the impedance between it and the motor is higher than it should be for any reason (such as thin cabling), then the speed correction response time will be slowed and wow (especially) and perhaps flutter will increase dramatically. This could be audible on recordings such as piano or violin, depending upon the degree. This exact same thing happens in power amps where the power supply's load is now the output transistor/speaker interface instead of the motor. That's why McCormack and others place their filter caps directly beside the output transistors on the same pcb (less than an inch or two away) instead of running wires from ones placed somewhere else such as in the middle of the chassis.

I am following a combination of Kevin's and what my friend suggested. KAB's power supply responded very favorably to cryo'ed power cords and changing the DC cable from the stock 24 ga to 18 ga solid core was phenomenal. All the internal DC cabling in my 1200 will be rewired by Robert of Ridge Street Audio. Robert wants to use 12 ga solid core silver wire--cryo'ed, of course. he aslo wants to see if the power supply can be revved up further. I think it will be cost effective to send it to cryo treatment.

Anyway, the KAB modded MK2 is pound for pound THE best buy in analog reproduction. I have been aware of Alex's project and as time goes on more and more people are taking the plunge and going for the "creature on steroids".

Alex, have you listened to the Teres? It seems to me that in the under $5K category that's the only other TT worth checking out.