audiphile power cords


Do upgraded power cords really make a significant difference in sound quality? I have a Jolida 502p that I think sounds pretty good. What do you recommend for a power cord that would make a significant improvement?
al2214

Showing 5 responses by almarg

06-06-14: Atmasphere
Regarding the readings that Shunyata had in that article, I think it would be very interesting to test some common cords on there, like certain models of Belden. I think that heavy gauge is usually a good place to start- install some decent connectors and you are usually well on your way. However if you think about it, just doing that and selling it at a normal markup will result in a power cord that costs at least $150.00- maybe more like $200...
As a point of reference, Signal Cable offers 10 gauge cords in a six foot length for $83. They also offer a double-shielded 12 gauge cord intended for use with digital components in a six foot length for $124. Shorter lengths are also available, at lower prices. Descriptions are provided here (click the "more info" links).

FWIW, I have used both with excellent results, as have several other members here in whose ears I trust.

Best regards,
-- Al
Tony (TSL49) is correct, as usual. 20 paralleled 23 gauge wires are equivalent to 10 gauge; 20 paralleled 24 gauge wires are equivalent to 11 gauge. Keith (Audiolabyrinth) had indicated earlier that 24 gauge wires are used in the Cobalt, so based on the supposition of 20 wires for each of the three conductors all of the numbers seem roughly (although not precisely) consistent.

Regards,
-- Al
Keith, thanks for providing this info.

I must say, though, that it is not particularly confidence inspiring that their website says 10 gauge and 60 conductors, while their response to you says 8 gauge and a total of 36 conductors.

Also, there are some minor inconsistencies in their response:

14 x 24 awg is approximately 13 awg, not 14 awg, and is actually a bit heavier (lower in gauge) than 13 awg.

2 x 12 awg is 9 awg, not 10 awg.

2 x 12 awg + 2 x 12 awg on the ground run (if that description is accurate) would be 6 awg, not 8 awg.

Regards,
-- Al
... what is you caculation of the over all gauge?
Assuming their descriptions of the wires are accurate, overall it is an 8 gauge cord as they indicated to you, since 14 x 24 awg + 2 x 12 awg for the hot and the neutral each correspond to 8 awg.

The 6 awg for the ground run, which as I indicated is what corresponds to their description of 2 x 12 awg + 2 x 12 awg, doesn't affect the overall characterization of the cord as 8 awg, since assuming a major defect is not present in the equipment almost all of the current flows through just the hot and neutral conductors.

Regards,
-- Al
Ketchup, pending Ralph's response I'll mention that I'm pretty certain using Romex as a power cord would be a violation of electrical codes, and potentially an excuse for an insurance company to not pay in the event of a fire.

Romex is designed for in-wall or other uses which would not cause it to be repeatedly flexed. If it is used in an application where it might be repeatedly flexed, the concern is that fractures could develop, which could lead to internal hot spots as a result of the increase in resistance that would occur at the locations of those fractures, which could result in fire. (The heat generated by a resistance is proportional to the amount of power it dissipates, which for a given amount of current is proportional to the amount of resistance).

While it wouldn't surprise me if there are some audiophiles who have used Romex for power cords, it's not something that can be recommended.

Regards,
-- Al