Audio Research or Luxman?


I recently acquired a 1973 Luxman L-507 integrated amp only to learn that the volume/balance control pots are bad and can't be replaced, but I was able to bypass the pre-amp section and run it with the amp section only, and oh my, did it sound good.

I was very surprsed to find that its sound quality came too close in sound quality to my ARC separates: a Reference 3 preamp and Ref 75SE amp. So now I'm wondering how a modern Luxman like a l-505uXii or 507uXii would compare with my ARC separates. 

Any thoughts anyone?

 

audiojerry

Showing 7 responses by elliottbnewcombjr

Based on the sound of my one and only Luxman, and what you describe, I would definitely keep/use the Luxman.

I agree, a good tech can get you volume controls inside.

Anywhere near NJ? I am sure Steve Leung at VAS can get some very nice volume controls in it.

 

Another option, is to use something like this Chase RLC-1 Remote Line Controller, for some or all of it’s features. NEEDS the remote, no on-board buttons.

 

Try as I may, or my friends may, we cannot tell if it is in/out of the system. it’s 120 S/N ratio makes it invisible

. Office, I use it only for remote power of my Luxman (leave it’s manual power switch on). Then use the Luxman’s inputs and remote volume. I/you could just use the Chase remote volume. Main system, out now, currently evaluating new to me CD players hooked up directly to the Cayin and alternately thru the McIntosh mx110z preamp. It will go back in, I expect un-noticeably, except features. I love having remote balance. I find many tracks benefit a lot from a small balance tweak. I use my preamps inputs, Cayin’s remote volume, I will switch to Chase volume, and use the Cayin’s pre-in. Now, Furman controls power. I may run the power 1st thru the Chase, then leave the Furman’s power switch on, use Chase for remote power, volume, balance, loudness. RLC-1 also has built-in automatic/progressive Loudness for low volume listening, infrequent use, but important when I do, primarily keep Jazz Bassist present.. Most people misunderstand how to set Loudness up, when done right, it maintains involvement at low volumes.

 

rwwear

I had it out for a few months during my quest for a better sounding CD Player. I just put it back in yesterday after I settled on my Yamaha DVD-C961.

I’l mess with it, in/out/direct to Cayin, Preamp thru Chase or Direct to Cayin.

I’ve got a perfect track to compare the bass: Mila Drumke, Hip To Hip, track 5, My Funny Valentine: Just her voice and Bass Player. It’s a terrific CD.

 

Phono, Bass, lots of choices, Blue Nile comes to mind, Walk Across the Rooftops, I just replaced my LP and have it on CD.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxK7AZEdVbU&list=PLgtOYAIvc8d1iIcZxqjpcAO9WwL8J_Ar1

 

 

rwwear

You were a dealer, I won’t challenge your experiences, here’s mine:

Preamp has two outputs, I set up matched volume, instant remote A/B

A: Preamp direct to Cayin Amp, CD In

B: Preamp thru Chase RLC-1, to Cayin AUX. Raise Chase volume to match ’A’ volume.

Results: same as ever: Zero difference. Over many years, 3 units, 3 systems, no one here can hear any difference with that Chase RLC-1 in or out.

Based on your comments, I specifically concentrated on Bass, no change.

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IF the volume relationship of preamp/amp/Chase RLC-1 is not done properly, tubby bass can/will definitely occur:

because the Chase has built-in (automatically progressively engaging) ’Loudness’ designed specifically for low volume listening, gradually boosting the bass as volume reduces. ’Loudness’ is a stupid name, and MOST people do not understand/set ’Loudness’ correctly.

Proper ’Loudness’ setup: Chase (other device) at DEFAULT volume startup, starts pretty low with no ’loudness’ engaged. Raise volume at the preamp or amp (not the Chase unit): UP to your normal listening volume, then never touch that preamp or amp volume again.

Now, use Chase for more volume, no loudness. Use Chase for less volume, as you go lower, ’Loudness’ is automatically progressively engaged. i.e. keeping Jass Bass Players at proper level relative to everything else. That is what maintains INVOLVEMENT at low levels for me. Fletcher Munson curves are REAL.

Chase unit remembers where the volume is left, so it is easy for someone to leave it low, bass boost involved, then, next turn on, mistakenly raise the preamp or amp volume, thus raising Chase’s bass which will be tubby at higher volumes.

In a store, you have no control over who did what, when.

I unplug my Chase unit, to get it back to defaults periodically, to make sure all is set correctly. Main system, one I just re-installed and evaluated, I added a front power switch to easily get back to defaults.

It's the same for it's remote balance. it remembers where last set, say a squeak left. I forget, turn system on the next day, it plays whatever a squeak left. Another reason to do the default reset. 

My McIntosh mx110z Tube Tuner/Preamp also has ’Loudness’, switched, on or off. I never tried it because the Chase handles it for me.

You may know, people had tricks to disable the Chase’s ’Loudness’. They simply used it wrong, took away a valuable feature.

audiojerry,

I ASSUMED you had more than one source equipment, thus I mentioned the Chase Unit.

We are talking about getting you listening until you find someone who will repair the Luxman’s internal volume controls someday, correct?. After that, you may still want to use the Chase for it’s remote features. (4 inputs, volume, balance, low volume loudness)

......................................

Now you are going straight into the 507’s Main In with a source component? It’s not too loud? Then hook up the Chase, it will be just fine.

In any case, I think you should try the Chase before you part with it. Chase’s default volume is low, if not too loud you are all set. If too loud, that’s a problem, you cannot start with the Chase below it’s default Volume for your normal listening level, as the Chase will have engaged ’Loudness’ before you want it to, it will make tubby bass as I explained above.

IF too loud, you could put the Chase into one of these manual stereo volume controls, then go to your amp’s main in.

 

Not audiophile, but it isn’t active, get’s you going.

1. Chase at it’s default volume (unplug, plug it in to get defaults). (on/off does not go to defaults, it retains ’last’ settings).

2. Chase out to intermediate manual volume control

3. Manual volume Control to amp’s Main In.

4. Set manual volume control at your Normal Listening level, leave it alone after that.

5. then use the Chase for Remote Volume, up or down, now getting proper advantage of the automatic ’loudness’ at low volumes,no loudness at increased volumes, and advantage of it’s remote volume and balance for tracks that benefit a lot from a small balance tweak.

....................................

After you find someone to repair the Luxman’s Volume controls, remove the intermediate volume control.

Then, like me, my fancy eared friends: try as you will, you simply cannot find any difference with that Chase In or Out. It’s S/N 120db is real.

I am flabbergasted each time it makes no difference other than adding all it's features. My preamp's volume works manually, my Cayin has remote volume, I go without the Chase, with the Chase,  

 

audiojerry

do the red lights change when you try up or down?

where do you live? I’m in Plainfield, Central NJ. If close enough, you can borrow one of my working units, I have a spare, and we can definitively prove yours does or does not work.

IOW, perhaps that Luxman has other problems, perhaps erratic.

 

audiojerry

The Chase volume does start LOW, 2 red lights out of 5 lit. It's volume change is very many small steps, click click click ..., 3rd light, click, click  click ... 4th light  up to 5 lights then a few more clicks.. It ought to get pretty loud when 4 lights are lit.

Try it on a different amp. If volume (all features) does not work, then the Chase is defective, you should return it. You bought on eBay, so even if seller does not take returns, IF it is not what the seller said (working), PayPal will refund the money to you, then they go for a refund from the seller themselves.

Long Shot: One option is to try both outputs, try the rear, perhaps rear is working but the front outputs are dead. They are identical signal, early quad era, not a different rear.

There is nothing inside except a few printed circuit boards and a small transformer, no moving parts, so I don't know how some functions work and not others. 

I had one arrive dead. Transformer Connection broken, evidently UPS played football with it. Seller gave me a refund. Never had any issue with 3 of mine.