What you suggest will work fine. As considerations:
- Not a bad idea to eliminate the spade or banana interface between the wire and the binding post.
- You can achieve the same 11 awg result by:
- cutting the wires into the identical lengths you need to run from amp to speaker, while allowing a little extra for twisting (10%+ depending on diameter and frequency of twisting)
- lightly twisting two identical lengths of the 14 awg wire together
- stripping 1/2-3/4 inch at the end of each wire and then more tightly twisting the ends of the two twisted wires together, and
- making a fish-hook shape with the twisted ends that can hook around your binding post
- Don't go crazy on tightening the binding posts (snug+ should be good) and they should last for a long time.
- You can further improve the "design" by:
- using four identical lengths of the 14 awg wires which in your case is enough for both the +/- poles at each speaker (I assume you plan to use 8 wires total for two speakers, or 16 wires if you bi-wire?)
- carefully twisting all four wires lightly to moderately together (like maybe 4-8 twists per foot) while keeping each wire oriented consistently with respect to the other wires (this is important)
- untwist the last 6-8 inches of wire at each end of your "cable" to serve as the lead-outs to connect to your speakers and amp
- take two wires that are opposite each other (not side-by-side wires) and twist the lead-outs of those two wires together and then do the same for the other two wires that are opposite each other, so you have now cross-connected the wires
- finish the terminations as fish-hooks as discussed above and you will have one speaker "cable" (each cable made from 4 wires) that runs from the amp to each speaker
- this creates what is called a star-quad geometry that lowers inductance even further than with twisted pair geometry, and lower inductance (along with lower resistance) is a good thing for speaker wire/cables
- make a second set if you want to bi-wire
- Having all four wires twisted together as a "cable" allows you to cover them with a single sleeve thus reducing the fragility of the bundled "cable" compared to having four separate wires or two twisted pairs of wires running from your amp to speakers.
- Here is some noise reduction sleeving I like to use, otherwise I recommend the clean cut or even cotton, if your wire is cotton-covered. You can then finish the ends of the sleeving with heat shrink and if you wish you can place red/black heat shrink over the lead outs for durability in handing and to make it easy to recognize pos/neg when you connect/reconnect your wires.
- My favorite speaker cables continue to be made from solid core wire - yes, I believe I hear a difference. I have some multi-gauge, multi-strand, high quality, solid core copper in cotton speaker cables I made that (IMO, wrt SQ) continue to beat anything else I have here, including several types of manufactured stranded wire cables using PCOCC conductors (Furutech and others I have tried). The manufactured cables I have here that I like are from Harmonic Technology and those use multiple strands of multiple small gauge, solid core PCOCC copper in PE dielectric, with an aggregate of either 9 awg or 11 awg.
I believe you are on the right path. Give it a try and tell us how you make out.