AR Classic 60 Bias Confusion


Purchased my Classic 60 new in 1991. Loved the sound for many years. Had it retubed in 2013 but little time to listen with a toddler running around. All I know is that the amp has never sounded the same since being retubed.

The new tubes were old style Winged C 6550s.

I thought I should check the bias to be sure the tech who installed the new tubes had it right. It’s running at 36mv on the left and 33mv on the right. These numbers are pretty close to the 32.5mv bias recommended in my manual that came with the amp.

My problem is that every bias setting I have seen online for the Classic 60, including the pdf manual downloadable from AR says the bias should be 65mv.

Does anyone know whether AR had two versions of the amp? Is my manual a misprint at 32.5mv? 65ma is mentioned in my manual as the nominal current per tjbe but no mention of 65mv as the correct buas).

I’ve sent the question in to AR service but no doubt they are busy. Not sure when they will be able to respond.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated,

Perry

perryg

Hi jea48,

I know that same video and have been in touch with Mitch who was the tech who made that youtube post.

He does say 65mv in that clip. I also noticed the labeling of the test points but the locations of the points for each side were really what I wanted to see and he illustrated that well. I figured out the TP numbers on my own.

I suppose I could have checked the Classic 30 manual on the ARCDB website earlier. It lists a bias setting of 32.5mv. 

My guess is the amp was biased to 65mv when it came from the factory. Sounded great for many years. When I changed the tubes the bias was set to 32.5 as per page 8 in my manual but I think my page 8 actually was from the Classic 30 manual. The amp hadn’t sounded very good since the retube.

 

I have to leave town for 5 days but will set the bias to 65 when I get home. Looking forward to hearing how it sounds.

Will keep you guys posted.

@perryg

I hope you have at least a pair of something like these.

 

 

You’ll need something insulated to connect the DMM two probe leads to the two bias points on the circuit board for channel of the amp. You’ll need the meter around the other side so you will be able the read the display as you adjust the blue trim pot.

I thought my ARC VT50 amps where a PITA to bias the power tubes. The Classic 60 looks worse. Older ARC amps were not user friendly when it came to biasing the power tubes.

At least you don’t have to bias the input and driver tubes for each channel like I do on the VT50. That can hours to do...

Ok folks,

Here is the response straight from the hoARse’s mouth. (Sorry for the bad pun).

 audio research HIGH DEFINITION®
5740 GREEN CIRCLE DRIVE / MINNETONKA, MINNESOTA55343-4424 / PHONE 612/939-0600 FAX612/939-0604
CL-60 /V-70 BIASING INSTRUCTIONS
NOTE: This supplement is not intended to replace the owner's manual instructions included with these models. Please familiarize yourself with that information before attempting the following.
1 . Ensure unit is turned off and unplugged.
2. Remove tube cage top on CL60 or V70. Unplug fan cord to remove cage.
3. If replacing tubes, remove old tubes. Note any tube that looks different from the others. Forexample, a tube with a whitish crust inside the glass envelope (which should appear clear with silver spots) may have lost vacuum. Or a tube that hasa brownish cast inside the envelope may have overheated. These clues should be noted in case the amplifier does not function properly when retubed, as component damage may have occured due to a tube failure.
4.
If the amplifier had a tube failure evidenced by an arcing (flashing) tube
or has blown either fuse, you should inspect the 100 ohm screenresistors
f o r damage.
These act as a "fuse" in the event of severe output tube failure and may be burned, cracked apart or low in value. The 100 ohm resistor is
a brown 9/16" long resistor with brown, black, brown, gold identifying bands, These will be mounted on the top of the circuit board near each output tube socket on the CL60, or on the underside of the circuit board beneatheach output tube socket on the V70. Use ARC #43100200 (2W 5% wire wound) replacements. Refer to illustration A.
5.
Should yoube installing Russian 6550si n t o a CL60 which previously used
either Philipso rChinese 6550so rKT88's, no change is necessary. See Step. 6. I fyou are replacing KT90 or KT91 tubes ina V70 withRussian 6550's, you will likely need to change bias trim resistor R97 (49.9K ohm) to a higher value
such as 76.8K ohm or 100K ohm in order to properly bias the tubes within
the range allowed by the bias pot. Refer to illustration B for part location.
6. Install tubes. Note that matched pairs should be installed as follows: V12 and V8; V10 and V6; V7 and V11; V5 and V9.
7. Locate black .5 ohm resistors at front edge of circuit board. Using a digital volt meter capable of accuracy to .ImVDC, connect negative probe to TP-4
and positive probe to TP-3. Note that t e s t points are the "legs" of the resistor.
VERY IMPORTANT: You m u s t u s e i n s u l a t e d t e s t l e a d s t h a t do n o t c o n t a c t t h e chassis. Do not attempt this adjustment if usingtypical pin-type probes
as you could s l i p and touch the chassis which will damage the unit or your meter and probably necessitate a factory repair! A fully insulated probe with a retractable hook that may be securely attached to the test points will

 Page 2
CL-60 / V-70 Biasing Instructions
prevent mishaps. Most electronic supply stores carry such a probe.
Ensure correct fuses installed: MDX 6-1/4A line fuse; AGC 1/4A high voltage fuse.
With your DVM set to mV DC scale 200mVDC or less (if not auto ranging), turn on amp.
After a few seconds, bias reading should start to rise. Check across other channel's test points TP-2 and TP-1 to ensure proper operation also. Initially
s e t RV-1 bias pot to about 55mVDC reading. This will r i s e as tubes warm up.
8. After full warmup of approximately 20 minutes, set RV-1 to final reading of 65mVDC across TP-1 and T-2, TP-3 and TP-4. Bias readings from channelt o channel may vary up to 4m due to minor tube variations. If greater than
AmV difference, you may need to swap tubes from channelt o channel t o reduce the variation.
9. After a t least 30 minutes warmup, recheck bias. If correct, proceed to check servo balance.
10. Move positive probe from TP-1 to TP-5. Leave negative probe connected to TP-2. Reading should be plus or minus 2mVDC. If out of calibraion, insert plastic probe into hole in side rail of that channel to engage trimmer. With probes connected as above, turnprobeclockwise to make reading positive, counter-clockwise to make negative. Adjust trimmer no more than 1/4turn
a ta timet oprevent over-adjustment. Allow 5 minutes for servo t ostabilize Observe result. Readiust as necessary.
11. Repeat step 10 with other channel. Connect negative probe to TP-4, positive t o TP-6.
1 2 . Should you experience difficulty, Audio Research Field ServiceDepartment. may be reached at (763) 577-9700 8:00 am - 4:00 pm Monday through Friday

So there we have it. 65mv. I’m not sure that I like the the disclaimer about this supplement not supposed to replace the supplied manual because that’s exactly what I’ll be doing. They didn’t officially admit to two iterations of the Classic 60 or to the error in my manual but this was the response.

 

Thanks for everyone’s help.

 

I finally got back home and biased the Classic 60 up to 65mv.

I thought that the amp sounded so lean and lifeless initially because the new tubes needed to break in.

All I can say is the amp is back. The wide soundstage, detail, beautiful mids, solid bottom end and floating highs with all instruments all back where there they shoild be.

This has been a long time coming. Will have to listen to my music again.

As said before, thanks to all. The gon community is like no other.

 

Perry

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