Anyone refinished a plinth?


I have a Thorens TD 160 on the way. It has what I assume is a plinth made of particle board (?) with a thin wood veneer on top. I'd like to get a black finish with some of the wood grain showing. What are the steps? I assume starting off with a very careful sanding of the veneer to get the gloss off, and then begin the staining process?

Let me know if this is something not for the novice.

Thanks.
adnan

Showing 2 responses by has2be

" Let me know if this is something not for the novice. "

I think this is what some of you actually missed. And it is regarding an older cheaply veneered (no offence) turntable plinth top not a piano black instrument with far better veneers. No offence to anyone, you obviously know your stuff but the OP doesn't and is looking for the easiest, most risk free way of doing it. With easy to find and use materials.

What ever way I hope it turns out great as doing things like this successfully will make the purchase that much sweeter.

Cheers
Concidering the time , effort and cost of what your trying to attempt to do as you are an admitted novice and the risk of a less than happy outcome...... You would be very surprised at the lower price than you think it would be for a new plinth to be made. Few on here that advertise so why not at least check that option and make your decision.

As noted sanding veneer is risky and to get the effect you want the finish on it now will have to be removed from the grain for it to show with definition as you are wanting through the black. Stripping veneer is also a risk if the chemicals are to harsh or the veneer so thin that it effects the glue and can cause it to ripple and so can applying a top coat to heavily when finishing it.

If your adament about doing it and with 40 years of woodworking and refinishing I am confident for you to get the results you wish for.
1. Do not use any sandpaper no matter how fine.
2. Use a waterbased stripper and medium steelwool to "lightly" remove the bulk of the finish being carfull not to use to much to soak the veneer.
3. Do not use any! scrapers of any sort only the steel wool.
4. Use some cheese cloth to wipe away the dissolved excesse finish. Can be bought cheap at home depot and works best because the open weave traps the dissolved finish where a rag will push it back in to the grain.
5. Use a fine steel wool with stripper to remove the remainder of finish using the same methods and cautions above.
6. Let it sit and dry naturally for a day then use XXX fine stell wool to "lightly" remove any stripper and dirt that comes up from the surface leaving a nice smooth clean surface and finish with clean tack cloths turning them frequently.
7. Use a flat black dye/stain with a cheese cloth. Put the stain on the cloth not on the veneer. Work it in with the grain and Do Not use to much to soak it. 2 or 3 light coats never one heavy one. After each light application and some drying time use a clean peice of cheesecloth to wipe and polish the stain evening out any irregularities.
8. After leaving the stain to completely dry and you can wipe a piece of cheese cloth on it and pick up no stain.Apply a seal to it with a compatible product with the stain you used.(min wax for both is a safe bet but read the labels as they are not all compatable with each other) I would recommend a wipe on finish for two reasons. It provides a more uniform finish and no risk of over soaking the old veneer . Lightly wipe on using cheese cloth. Let it dry and very lightly polish with XXX fine steel wool. this is only to allow the next coat to adhere so very lightly.Tack rag then apply final coat.
I would recommend a flat satin finish as the previous finish in the grain will let the grain have more definition and show more naturally.

Good Luck and remember if you rush the process it will show in the results.

Cheers.