Anti skate. I think something's wrong


I have an Acoustic Signiture TT with a Graham 2.2 tonearm and Ortofon Cadenza Bronze cartridge. My anti skate is set close to tracking weight and it would always dig to in inside when I would start a record. I read this is wrong so I got my Cardas test record out and placed it in smooth section and it imediately gravitated to inside. I adjusted anti skate to where cartridge slighty pulls to inside . Here is the problem. To get this I'm having to adjust anti skate to the max. I rechecked TT and it is right on level wise. I have less sibilence now and swear the two channels are more even. The right channel has always been just slightly lower than left in volume. The only qualm I have is the max antiskate I have to use. Is bearing bad? I have the blue fluid. Or I shouldn't worry and enjoy the music. Mike
128x128blueranger

Showing 7 responses by mmakshak

It's been awhile since I did anti-skate, but I remember one thing.  Do not use anti-skate for any other reason(like channel balance) than what is the best setting for the just the anti-skate alone.  I think you get close to the correct anti-skate, and then, incrementally go forward and back(more and less anti-skate), until you hear what anti-skate does.  You can go slow, and even sleep on it.  If, the next day, you are less excited to want to listen to your records, put it back where you had it, etc.  I vaguely remember that it might be just less(a slightly smaller amount of anti-skate) than where the balance between channels(or something like that) is best.  There was a discussion on here, where I came to the same conclusion as a person who studied anti-skate a lot. Note:  all of my anti-skate experiments were done with gimbaled tonearms(but I would assume you could use the same experiments. I think uni-pivots[the Graham, I assume] use less anti-skate.).  To get a starting point, you might research your tonearm and cartridge(reviews, etc.).  In addition, your choice should be for the best sound(again don't listen for specific things) for the whole record, while you can keep in mind that anti-skate should be more needed towards the end of the record(I think there might be a few more compromises towards the end-even if you get the correct setting.).  
Stringreen, have you given thought that your take on anti-skate might apply more to uni-pivots than to gimbaled tonearms?
Blueranger, I think you are correct about checking the level of your turntable.  I think that's most likely the problem, when you have a quality arm, yet have to put AS at it's maximum.
It's been awhile since I adjusted AS, but maybe(and this is done with a gimbaled tonearm) my final result, which was just less than where the sound becomes locked in(in a way-maybe where everything, like channel balance, seems to be correct), has to do a little bit with the "opening of sound" he talks about.  i do remember sleeping on what appeared to be the correct setting(based on channel balance, etc.) and was less enthused about listening to music.  When I put it back(remember these changes to AS were almost imperceptible movements), the magic came back. 
Lewn, while theory is a good place to start experiments, you still have to try it out in real life.  While it's possible that Peter Lederman was predisposed to look for that asymmetrical stylus wear to prove what he believed, it's also possible(and maybe more probable) that that's what he actually found.
Truman, might I suggest you add one thing to your method.  When you get that centered image, try to incrementally change anti-skate more and less, until you decide what you like the best.  Sleep on your results, and look to see what setting gets you more excited about listening to your records.  I think I found the correct setting was incrementally less than where the image seemed to lock in.  This method is actually more scientific than you might think, because it takes into account things we can't/don't measure.  There can be many things(electronics, speakers, etc.) that are imperfect in their balance, etc.