You need a standard balun or matching transformer. They are available at any big box electronics store or your local RadioShack. One end goes to the tuner 300 ohm antenna terminals (ground is not used), the other to the 75 ohm coax.
I am curious to know which tubes tested marginal. I have an original Marantz Model 10 and Model 10B and both had strong tubes in them at the time of purchase.
If the unit works fine, I would leave it alone. Run it with a VARIAC set at 117V to prolong life of the tubes and filter caps. I installed a thermistor in line with the AC, that provides soft start and reduced AC voltage fed to the tuner.
Once you have the tuner operating, put your hand on the three aluminum filter cans located in the back of the chassis. They should never get hot to the touch. If they do, you will have to replace them at some point.
Since these filter cans are no longer available, I usually stuff them myself with modern electrolytics to preserve the original look. Any "expert" out there will simply add axial caps underneath the chassis which destroys the original look.
I am curious to know which tubes tested marginal. I have an original Marantz Model 10 and Model 10B and both had strong tubes in them at the time of purchase.
If the unit works fine, I would leave it alone. Run it with a VARIAC set at 117V to prolong life of the tubes and filter caps. I installed a thermistor in line with the AC, that provides soft start and reduced AC voltage fed to the tuner.
Once you have the tuner operating, put your hand on the three aluminum filter cans located in the back of the chassis. They should never get hot to the touch. If they do, you will have to replace them at some point.
Since these filter cans are no longer available, I usually stuff them myself with modern electrolytics to preserve the original look. Any "expert" out there will simply add axial caps underneath the chassis which destroys the original look.