All Maplenoll owners


I 'd like to share my recent experience with maplenols's owners. I read many times how difficult is to cvlean the small holes inside the air chanber of Maplenoll's arm. I tried to do this with my Maplenoll tonearm when I needed to replace the air pump. No problem with the platter it is very easy to suspend it ; at the opposite the tonearm need a higher pressure. So after I bought a new pump( Takazugi 80) and I realized that the air was not enough for the arm I decide to check if the holes inside was patent and well functioning: to do this a removed the black metal block where the horizzontal arm ( piston) is inserted and after to have inspected the plastic plug wich connects the air tube to the base of the black block, I removed the cylinder ; it is not difficult just use an hammer and give some well addressed bit to the external ring ( Pay attention to not damage the internal surface). The cylinder it is hold in its position by two 0rings.After you have removed the cylinder you can see the holes where the air pass trough the air chamber to the internal surface of the cylinder ; they are four for each side . Now you can unscrew the screws inside the holes , clean them with thricloroethilene and then replace them. Remove the 0rings and subsitute them or simply clean them ( Do Not use or touch them with thricloroethilene): put a little amount of grease . After that you replace the screws and if you want a little bit air more ( this was my case)after you tight the screws turn them back for an hafl round. Replace all and try . To have a better air distribution is better to separate the two pipe line outside the tuntable creating an Y and put on each a meter to measure the air flow.
paolobolasco

Showing 2 responses by oilmanmojo

Stanwal
Neat response, as these tables are not plug and play. However, the ariadne signature and apollo tables are really some of the finest systems to recreate the magic in the grooves. Some people have tried these tables and given up due to the issues with getting them initially set up and optimized. I did struggle with my first one. However, now owning three different maplenoll models including my fairly recent apollo purchase, I actually find these tables easy to set up and optimize. Concerning the original comments on the air distribution, flushing the circuit is an easier way to clean if you feel that one or more of the openings is fouled or plugged. I have not experienced a problem with the nozzles but learned early on this type of airbearing does require a high pressure air source. I have operated one table using two pumps, but also found that a good needle valve on the platter and arm allowed for great control of the pressure at the platter and arm.
Arabian--are you seeing the platter wobble a little? Usually its not the brass pin (female end) but rather the teflon/delrin end(male end) is worn. I have 3 of the Maplenoll's, the white ariadne reference with the light (ie 40Lb) platter, the grey ariadne signature, and the apollo. I am in the process of completely rebuilding the white one in a fashion that CREM1 did a few years ago.

Please understand, i am not saying the plastic or teflon pin is absolutely the issue, but unless someone modified the air bearing plates, the bottom plate (stationary one) has the pin that the top bearing plate (via the brass insert sleeve) sits upon. As the air slightly lifts the platter, this plastic pin is the actual centering pin that keeps the platter from moving off center. I struggled for quite a while before i learned about the worn pin. The pin can get worn by a previous owner not keeping the brass sleeve lubricated or the platter was slightly off level and the pin got worn as the platter rotated. You can force the pin out by removing the lower platter and using a punch, carefully remove. If you have a machine shop, you can have the take either a round stock of delrin or teflon and carefully turning it down until it just fits the top sleeve. Hope this helps