2. amps-preamps
  3. 157750-146077

Advice/Warnings for a newbie

Hi

I've had way too much free time and gone down a few rabbit holes purchasing some older gear, some of which I've got a little experience with and some none... but was curious, because I am not the best technically, if any of the more seasoned audiophiles might have any advice regarding my chain. I'm replacing my 30w Pioneer receiver with separates (put all my specs in the below list) – I got the preamp as a family hand-me-down and I've just bought the monoblocks (having service done now) so I've not heard it all together yet. The player and speakers I've been using forever. But will I OK in terms of matching impedances, gain, etc? Oh, and I'm installing a dedicated line for the monoblocks and was looking at a Niagara 1200 as power conditioner for the rest.... any tips greatly appreciated!


Technics SL1200M3D
Tonearm: Jelco 750D
External PSU: Paul Hynes SR4
+
Cart: Nagaoka MP150
Type: Moving Iron
Output voltage: 1kHz, 5cm/sec:4.5mV
Frequency range: 20-20kHz
Material: diamond, nude
Stylus type: elliptical 0.4 x 0.7 mil
Tracking force range: 1.5–2g
Tracking force, recommended: 1.8g
Recommended load capacitance: 150-200pF

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Phono Stage: RCM Sensor 2 
Input: RCA – Balanced and Unbalanced (selectable via switch)
Output: Balanced XLR / Unbalanced (single ended)
Input sensitivity: 0.3–5mV (selectable in 7 steps)
Gain: 52–76dB (2 VRMS output at 1 kHz)
Input impedance: 20–47kΩ (selectable in 8 steps)
Input capacitance: 150 pF
THD: 0,01% (1kHz)
RIAA linearity: +/-0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)
Nominal output: 2V rms
Max. output level: 8V rms
Output impedance: 70 ohm
S/N: 85dB (lowest gain settings)
RIAA linearity: +/- 0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)

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Cello Palette Preamplifier
Maximum output: 8V RMS (single-ended), 16V RMS (balanced)
Line Gain (Switchable): 0dB, 6dB, 9dB, 12dB, 18dB
THD (ref. 6V): 0.084%
Input impedance (Unbalanced): 1MΩ
Output Impedance: 150Ω

Running Balanced into >>

Pass Labs Aleph 2 (Monoblocks)
Topology: Class A, single-ended
Power Output: 100W into 8Ω / 200W into 4Ω
Maximum Output: 10A, 40V (Peak)
Gain (Balanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced, XLR Jumpered): 26dB
Distortion (100W, 8Ω, 20Hz-20kHz): 0.5%
Input Impedance (Balanced): 25kΩ
Input Impedance (Unbalanced): 10kΩ
Output Impedance: 0.1Ω
Damping Factor: 100
Common Mode Rejection: 60dB
Power Consumption: 300w
Output Noise: 600μV
DC Offset: <100mV

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A/D/S L1290 Loudspeakers
Frequency responce: 40hz–27khz,
Impedance: 8Ω nominal
Efficiency: 90dB SPL from 2.8 VRMS (1W)
Crossovers: 500hz and 5khz, 12dB/Octave slopes

au_lait

Showing 1 response by whatsthatbuzz

whatsthatbuzz
7 posts
 
I picked up a pair of L1290s this year for my living room system and have been loving them. Extra power improves them greatly. I initially had the run with a Dynaco ST70, but it was far to boomy. Then I bought an ATI 1506...

At first, because why not, I was running 2 of the 3 separate amps in the 1506 bridged, which is 450 watts per channel at 8 ohms. The L1290s are 4 ohm speakers so I’ll guess that was something like 900 watts per channel! The sound was like being at a live concert with a really nice system. The power emanating from the speakers was thrilling. I guess I like that type of distortion, but I kept blowing fuses in the speakers. Go figure.

So I switched off the bridge on the ATI 1506 and ran the L1290s at a mere 325 watts per channel for 4 ohm speakers. The speakers say 250 watts max so I thought I’d still hear some of that thrilling distortion but it was gone. What was heard just clean sound. I can’t complain but it is very different from overdriven. What this did let me do was add a sub. From one DJ to another, let me confirm that you definitely want the sub. I want a second one and now that the 1506 isn’t bridged for the L1290s I have an extra 2 channels to bridge, but then I think I need that dedicated circuit too. 
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