Active Linn Katans

Christian,

I'm not sure I understand the entire nature of your post. I think you are trying to say you have too much bass. If so, you should try to reposition them away from walls and especially corners. I have the Aktiv Keilidh's and without going Aktiv they are flat to 70 Hz. By going Aktiv they are flat to 40 Hz. Also, go listen to some live music. I think you will find the tonal balance of your Aktiv setup is very close to the real thing.

I have no knowledge of the Majik/LK-85 vs. two LK-85's differences. I do know that all Linn amplifiers have the same gain so this really shouldn't be part of the problem. Also, the cards should behave identically whether stereo or mono. I had communicated directly with Linn about using two LK-240's for the treble and my LK-100 for the bass. They advised that would be great. What I ended up using were two LK-100's (one for stereo treble, one for stereo mid/bass) being more cost effective.

Christian,

The first thing that comes to mind is whether the amps, left and right, are hooked up correctly when using the LK-85's. There really shouldn't be any difference except at higher volumes. If you installed the cards yourself, I'd start looking inside the bass amp and checking things out just to be sure. I'm unfamiliar with the LK-85's having not owned one. I do remember though that when I looked at my Aktiv card documentation that the cards are amp specific. You can get mono cards that work in some stereo amps as well as mono amps. But not all cards work in all amps. If you purchased these used I'd check the documentaion to see if they are in fact compatable with your amp. Good luck and you can email me through Audiogon anytime. Maybe we can figure this thing out for you.

Christian,

One of the first records I listened to after going Aktiv was Donald Fagen's "Nightfly". When Ruby Tuesday came on I got concerned when I heard THAT bass note that happens three times. Whoa. I had no idea my system could go that low.

Two benefits I noticed immediately from going Aktiv was a sense of effortlessnes in the presentation and lesser recordings were improved beyond belief. Were your experiences similar?

Christian and Gavin,

I understand that speaker positioning is sometimes dictated by factors beyond our control. You both need to experiment with methods to overcome the negatives of having the speakers too close to the wall. Tone controls, although perhaps needed in THIS case, are rarely beneficial. You need to place absorption panels behind your speakers. I realize that you will probably be limited in the size of the panels but urge you to do as much as you can. You need to minimize the coupling effect and your bass will improve a great deal. If my memory serves me correctly this early in the morning Westlake offers an accessory that looks like a foam surround that is flush with the face of the speaker. Take a look and try some home brewed remedy that is similar. I do think that "if" you can place Sonex (or similar) panels on the wall behind the speakers the results will make you happy.

The Sonex comes in 2 x 2 foot panels. For description sake, let's assume the speakers are the same size. You would need 9 panels per speaker making the absorption area 6 x 6 feet with each speaker directly in the middle. There are less expensive home brewed designs that are searchable on net.

Ideally you both need really good speaker stands a couple of feet into the room, minimum. The panels would mimic this to a certain degree.

Good luck,
Patrick

Guys,

My Aktiv cards (treble) have eight DIP switches for "room correction". Each switch is worth 0.5 db. I'm working from memory here but I believe four of the switches in the "on" position is the factory preset. So, assuming that is flat response, then you can boost or reduce the highs by a total of 2 db + or -. I hope this helps. Also, there was a post recently about anyone subscribing to the DELE or LEDE room treatments. Do a search of the Audiogon archives. I have a description there of a great room with Linn speakers tight against the wall. This Dead End/Live End application, while not preferred, will be your best bet, IMHO.

If you are willing to invest some money, in the neighborhood of $100-200, to build great absorptive panels then email me directly for a description. I do advise doing something makeshift in advance of the investment. Even cutting a piece of 2" thick foam rubber and temporarily placing it behind your speakers will let you tell if this is the way to go. Be warned however, that I wouldn't use this material permanently because of the fire hazard. Ultimately you need to use rigid fiberglass inside a frame of some sort with a fabric (burlap is best) covering. If you can find a material like the sock fabric the Linn speakers use this would be a very good alternative. It can be very attractive if you are a little handy and willing to give DIY a try.