" Right now the distance between my speakers is 16 ft."
That's quite far apart . . . do you mean the distance from your speakers to your listening position? |
LFE stands for 'Low Frequency Effects' (maybe you didn't know that, a lot of people don't) but the key word is EFFECTS. The single LFE signal has been 'processed' (as set by YOU) at the receiver/processor. IOW, with the LFE signal, the L and R channels have already been combined, the low pass frequency has been established, and often other parameters have/can be set (again, by you, from the menu on your A/V processor) depending on the features available on your processor. When you are playing 5.1 or 7.1 surround, the 'point one' subwoofer signal is "good to go" -- meaning that none of the controls on the sub itself are operable (except level) when using the LFE input. If you "process" everything you listen to (including two channel material) into surround sound, then you should only be using the LFE input regardless of the brand/model of sub.
The L and R single ended inputs are completely separate (and different) animals from the LFE input. First of all, ALL the controls on the back of the sub are operable when using the L+R inputs: phase, frequency crossover point and slopes, volume, high pass points (if you are sending the signal on to your main speakers) certain room-correction circuitry if your sub has room correction features (such as a microphone to set them up.) The subwoofer's amplifier only 'samples' the low frequency content of the L+R signals anyway (meaning, the actual L+R signals coming from your preamp/processor dont really 'drive' the subwoofer amp directly, whereas the LFE signal DOES actually drive the subwoofer amp.) So by keeping the L+R signals (coming from your preamp/processor) separate, you don't run the risk of compromising the output circuits of the preamp/processor by using a 'Y' connector. You can not (and should not) have signal going into BOTH the L+R inputs and the LFE input at the same time UNLESS there is a way at the sub or at the processor to turn one of them off as applicable.
All that said, the Woodmere II's already go down to 25Hz (at least according to the manufacturer ;~) so in your modest size room, with all those drivers going already, I can't imagine what you think you'll gain by adding a subwoofer? |
Shakedown, the "subwoofer" main outputs on the back of your Coda are exact duplicates of the "preamp" main outputs. Just different labels. In theory, the Woodmeres should give you all the low frequency bass you need. In pactice though, as things are now, it won't be well controlled low bass (good damping), unless you get the amp(s) next to the speaker(s). If you keep the Coda near your listening chair, you'll be running rather long speaker cables, which ruin good bass transient response. If you put the Coda between the speakers, that's a little bit better solution for good bass control, but incovenient from a user standpoint.
All this is a good argument for separate components over integrateds, which IMO are best reserved for bedroom systems. In your situation, you'd get a lot better performance out of your main speakers by using a pair of monoblock amps next to the speakers, and preamp and sources next to your listening position. A preamp preferably with balanced outputs to drive longer cables to the monoblock amps (although with well designed/shielded single-ended cables, you can go up to 40 ft with no problem.) As things are now, adding a subwoofer won't do anything to improve the (somewhat less than optimum) performance of your Tylers. So I'd work toward improving the relationship between your main speakers and the amp(s) that drive them.
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If you like tubes, then the best place to reap their benefit(s) is in a device that actually amplifies the signal. That would be amplifiers (obviously;~), phonoamps, and microphone amps. Preamplifiers are basically source selectors and volume/balance controllers. They don't really do any 'amplifying'. What we want in a preamp is QUIET! Before a signal gets to the main amplifier, having tubes in the signal path only adds "tube hiss" and who needs that? We do put up with a little tube hiss from phonoamps b/c you get great phono amplification (bang for the buck) with tubes. Not to say there aren't some really great ss phonoamps, but they all start a ten times the price of a similarly great sounding tube phonoamp -- of course you don't play vinyl, so none of that concerns you -- but I'm just saying ;~)
If you want a great sounding system starting from where you are now, you should think about a nice pair of tube monblocks for your Tylers. I think the Woodmeres are fairly efficient (the website no longer lists the specs for them) so you wouldn't need a super powerful amp; but more important, if you want to use tubes to enjoy the quality of all the Woodmeres' Scan-Speak drivers, both bass and mids, then you want to preserve all the damping ability that a tube amp can muster -- which means keeping speaker cables as short as possible. Thus the recommendation for monoblocks. If you want to use a ss amp, it could practically be in the garage as long as the speaker cables' conductors are big enough (10AWG). But tube amplification would be delicious with those speakers. And some day, if you want to bi-amp them, and get a couple of modest ss amps just for the woofers, you'd be way ahead (sonically) for the money, than you would be just throwing a sub into the current mix (even though Tyler makes some nice subs ;~)
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Hi Shake ;~)
First of all, did you mean your speakers are 16 feet away from your listening position (not 16 feet apart, which is pretty wide apart?)
If you like tubes, then the best place to reap their benefit(s) is in a device that actually amplifies the signal. That would be amplifiers (obviously;~), phonoamps, and microphone amps. Preamplifiers are basically source selectors and volume/balance controllers. They don't really do any 'amplifying'. What we want in a preamp is QUIET! Before a signal gets to the main amplifier, having tubes in the signal path only adds "tube hiss" and who needs that? We do put up with a little tube hiss from phonoamps b/c you get great phono amplification (bang for the buck) with tubes. Not to say there aren't some really great ss phonoamps, but they all start at ten times the price of a similarly great sounding tube phonoamp -- of course you don't play vinyl, so none of that concerns you -- but I'm just saying ;~)
If you want a great sounding system starting from where you are now, you should think about a nice pair of tube monblocks for your Tylers. I think the Woodmeres are fairly efficient (the website no longer lists the specs for them) so you wouldn't need a super powerful amp; but more important, if you want to use tubes to enjoy the quality of all the Woodmeres' Scan-Speak drivers, both bass and mids, then you want to preserve all the damping ability that a tube amp can muster -- which means keeping speaker cables as short as possible. Thus the recommendation for monoblocks. If you use a ss amp like your Coda, especially with efficient speakers, it could practically be in the garage as long as the speaker cables' conductors are big enough (10AWG). But tube amplification would really be delicious with those speakers. And some day, if you want to bi-amp them, and get a couple of modest ss amps just for the woofers, you'd be way ahead (sonically) for the money, than you would be just throwing a sub into the current mix (even though Tyler makes some nice subs ;~) |
If you like tubes, then the best place to reap their benefit(s) is in a device that actually amplifies the signal. That would be amplifiers (obviously;~), phonoamps, and microphone amps. Preamplifiers are basically source selectors and volume/balance controllers. They don't really do any 'amplifying'. What we want in a preamp is QUIET! Before a signal gets to the main amplifier, having tubes in the signal path only adds "tube hiss" and who needs that? We do put up with a little tube hiss from phonoamps b/c you get great phono amplification (bang for the buck) with tubes. Not to say there aren't some really great ss phonoamps, but they all start a ten times the price of a similarly great sounding tube phonoamp -- of course you don't play vinyl, so none of that concerns you -- but I'm just saying ;~)
If you want a great sounding system starting from where you are now, you should think about a nice pair of tube monblocks for your Tylers. I think the Woodmeres are fairly efficient (the website no longer lists the specs for them) so you wouldn't need a super powerful amp; but more important, if you want to use tubes to enjoy the quality of all the Woodmeres' Scan-Speak drivers, both bass and mids, then you want to preserve all the damping ability that a tube amp can muster -- which means keeping speaker cables as short as possible. Thus the recommendation for monoblocks. If you want to use a ss amp, it could practically be in the garage as long as the speaker cables' conductors are big enough (10AWG). But tube amplification would be delicious with those speakers. And some day, if you want to bi-amp them, and get a couple of modest ss amps just for the woofers, you'd be way ahead (sonically) for the money, than you would be just throwing a sub into the current mix (even though Tyler makes some nice subs ;~) |
Sorry about the double-posting. It's not me, honest! ;~)) |
