A Question About Reviewer Techniques

I've been reading the audio rags since the mid-80's and continue to subscribe (albeit with much less enthusiasm) to TAS and Stereophile while also reading the online publications occasionally. I've always wondered why reviewers do not evaluate products in systems recommended by the manufacturers. For example, a recent review of a loudspeaker has generated some controversy because the journals main review system uses speaker cable from a national hardware chain. I'm not criticizing the use of these cables (haven't heard them) but rather the decision to evaluate a particular product (in this case loudspeakers) using cables that are not recommended by the speaker manufacturer. Why don't the review mags simply ask the manufacturer what cables, electronics and source materials will bring out the best in their products and then make an effort to evaluate the product using these components? Any novice knows that system synergy is vitally important in obtaining good sound but somehow this core principal is thrown out the window (for the sake of expediency?) by reviewers who simply pair products under evaluation with whatever happens to be lying around their listening room or with whatever works with their other components. Then they write a review which is somehow supposed to be "authoritative" but which may not show the product in the best possible light. Anyone else find this a little troubling?