A Budget Amp Comparison



Budget Amp Comparison – Crown, Nuprime, Parasound


Everyone who begins their journey to audio nirvana probably begins the same way; with a bunch of research and wondering if they have spent “wisely”.

For those just starting out or just looking to make a change, this is a comparison of three budget amplifiers.  All three seem to have found a pretty good market following which probably means their price/sound performance is acceptable. Hopefully this comparison/thread will be helpful to new people entering the hobby…and hopefully this thread will invite comments from others who might have additional ideas about starter amps around/below $1000.

The three amplifiers are:

Crown XLS 2000/2 Class D ProAudio Amp - $499 new

Nuprime STA9 Class D Home Audio Amp with a Class A input stage - $649 new

Parasound Halo A23  high bias Class A/B Home Audio Amp - $995 new

(The most obvious amp missing from the group is the Schiit Vidar at $700 which also has a pretty good reputation and deserves consideration)

The other equipment these amps were paired up with during the comparisons include an Oppo 103, Parasound 2100 preamp, Tekton Lore loudspeakers, Blue Jeans RCA Cables and homemade OFC stranded, twisted, shielded speaker cables.


Crown XLS 2000/2002

The entry end for a new amplifier is probably $4-500 and the Crown is a pretty interesting amplifier at this price level. Designed by Harman International for pro audio applications but with consumer audio connections included as well (RCA inputs & banana/spade/bare wire speaker connections). This is a class D amplifier which Harman engineered to be powerful, reliable, clear, stable with tough loads and stable with crappy AC line voltages that might be found at a music venue.

The XLS 2000/2 has a surprisingly powerful low end, very wide soundstage extending 3’ beyond the speakers (but not very deep), decent midrange and top end. The Crown is silent with a black background and relatively musical overall.

A couple of great and really appreciated features include “no speaker thump” turn on and gain controls located on the front of the amp. The gain controls are fantastic when you have 98db efficiency speakers like the Lores. With no gain controls, you often only have the preamp/DAC at the 8-9 o’clock position and the loudspeakers are screaming…but if you also have a subwoofer that is connected to the preamp, you likely have to turn the sub gain controls all the way up which can sometimes compromise the sound. With the Crown XLS2000 you set the amp gain down allowing you to set the preamp volume up and your sub will sound its best. (You can also use the gain controls to equalize the left right volume if need be without the degradation you can sometimes get from balance controls).

This amp is insanely powerful…1050 watts into 2ohms per channel, 375 watts into 8 ohms and 650 watts into 4 ohms…bridgeable to mono with over 2000 watts. The input voltage required to drive to full output is 1.4 volts so it can pretty easily be driven directly by most CD players and DACs without a preamp.

On several occasions I emailed Crown with questions and always received a prompt reply that was helpful.

My overall feeling is that this is a really good starter amp for someone on a budget, for a second system, for a college kid, etc. Pretty good sound, bullet proof, tons of power, lots of connections, and all the connections needed for double duty use in dj applications and other pro audio type gigs as well as home audio…and less than $500.


Nuprime STA9

The amp is beautifully packaged and this by itself gives you a certain level of confidence as you open the box. In most (but not all) areas, the STA9 is a step up from the Crown. Although the soundstage presented is not as wide, it is deeper and more dimensional. Although the bass is not as powerful, it is more tuneful (better pitch). The midrange and top end have better definition with slightly better instrument separation. Head to head, the Nuprime sounds  more musical.

Both the Crown and the Nuprime are class D and weigh about 10lbs…but the Nuprime is about half the overall size. Nuprime says it designed this amp with a Class A input favoring 2nd order harmonics. This may explain why the Nuprime idled at 103 degrees and ran at 107 degrees while the Crown remained at room temperature and the fan never kicked on.  Like the Crown, the Nuprime is also dead silent and has a very black background.

A couple things I didn’t appreciate so much about the Nuprime: the on/off switch is on the back, it frequently thumped my loudspeakers when turning on and of (as well as when the oppo or the preamp turned on and off) and it didn’t have gain controls which made it much more difficult to integrate with the subwoofer.

The Nuprime is rated at 120 watts into both 4 ohms and 8 ohms and bridgeable to 290 watts mono.

Like with Crown, my email correspondence with Nuprime was always answered in a timely manner.

Based on sound alone, this amp is worth a try. You may not experience some of the things that bothered me…or they may not bother you.   If you don’t need the power of the Crown and you have a little more money to spend, this might be a good choice.

 

Parasound Halo A23

The Halo was also beautifully packaged (double boxed) with a very clearly written manual included. Parasound describes this amp as high bias Class A/AB…meaning that for the first watt or two, it operates as class A and then operates as A/B as more watts are used. (Pass labs has a very nice description of what actually happens http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_leave_classa.pdf    )  I can’t say that I actually noticed any difference or if there was actually a change from Class A to A/B but I can say that in my system in my room, the Halo sound was a pretty big step up from the Nuprime (which was a step up from the Crown). The soundstage can best be described as immersive (deep and wide) with a strong, detailed low end, detailed and silky mids and highs with good instrument separation and very musically engaging.

Like the Crown and Nuprime, the Halo has a black background with no speaker hiss whatsoever. The Halo has a very effective relay that never thumped my loudspeakers. The operating temperature remained under 90 degrees for the first hour and then gradually climbed to 105 degrees by the third hour so ventilation may be needed. The Halo has gain controls on the rear and the on/off switch is on the front.

The Halo is rated at 125 watts into 8 ohms, 225 watts into 4 ohms, is bridgeable and will drive 2 ohm loads but not at full power at 20hz. Email response from Parasound was also quick.

If you can afford $1000 (new) or $700 (preowned), this is the best sounding amp of the group and deserves strong consideration. Another point worth mentioning is resale; Parasound has a good reputation and their products seem to resell pretty quickly on Audigon with prices that hold up pretty well over time.


Final Thoughts

Until you have a chance to try a piece of equipment in your home in your system in your room, you can only speculate as to what it will sound like and what quirks will drive you crazy. No matter how good the reviews and forum comments are its definitely worth the price of return shipping to try equipment for a few weeks before deciding.


snapsc

Showing 5 responses by michaelgreenaudio

I have Audolici, Accuphase, Luxman, Audio Note, Rotel, Creek, Jolida, Marantz, Parasound, Technics and a few others, and the best sleeper amp out there right now is a receiver believe it or not. This is proof that mid-fi has caught up to High End Audio. The inexpensive Sherwood 4105 is a show stopper and name taker. Not stock, but if you ditch the feet, and put Tuning Blocks underneath, and a couple other free tweaks you'll be right up there with the big boys. Don't believe me, look at the testimonies of those who have gone from their High End goodies to this treasure.

Michael Green

www.michaelgreenaudio.net 

Hi cj

Sorry about that. I tune all mine and clients systems, it's what I do and have done for 30 some years, so it's kind of weird for me to refer to any component without it's sonic context. It would be like you talking about your speakers without mentioning your room or amp.

I have a question for you. When you buy a component, do you leave it in shipping mode? Meaning do you loosen the cable ties, remove the top cover and loosen the transformer? I'm not trying to be a smart "A" here, just letting you know that there are all sorts of starting places audiophiles use to get their systems ready to play. For my gang, we would never play a component without removing the shipping restraints or do some of the very basics. Hey but that's what makes the world go round. Some people buy components thinking already about when they are going to sell it. And than there are others that use a component at it's best performance state.

Michael Green

www.michaelgreenaudio.net

Hi Loomis

Yes the rx4105. Here's a thread putting it into context. If you back up a page you will see what he replaced.

http://tuneland.forumotion.com/t415p50-lattis-system

Michael Green

www.michaelgreenaudio.net

Hi snapsc

That question can probably be answered from a few points of view. Most of my clients I would say, have either had it with HEA or suspect there is something wrong with this HEA picture. Or have heard about me and what I do, either by reading a review or article then they get a hold of me and start their next chapter. Or their friend has converted and let them listen and borrow stuff. There actually was a time when the whole shipping issue was discussed among brands (obviously they have known about units built to ship vs units at their best state of performance). But most companies just want to make the sale and are glad they are in business. There are some designers who have tried to say they make their components that way on purpose, but these guys have been proven wrong by those of us who actually test these issues.

There is a way around some of these issues that designers can, and some do, implement. If you look inside of components many times you see ties, but you will also see some use supports for their wire runs instead of ties. A wire support lifts the wire from the chassis and doesn't put tension on the wires. On these supports is a clip where you can easily get the wire out, without having to snip anything. As far as transformers, many companies make their transformers so they can be easily loosened. There are a bunch of these tweaks (resets) you can do to the right component, and you never have to be concerned about warranty issues.

Here's the deal though. Since designers know this is "Audio" shouldn't they be making components already this way? They shouldn't be asking you to pay these outrageous prices and yet not even supply you with the opportunity to reset your component to it's original design. HEA should mean advanced, but we can all do these tests and see that we are not getting the bang for our buck.

One of the reasons so many are turning to these receivers and other products is because of the build. For example if you look inside of the Sherwood, you will see an amazing layout. The mass companies have really done their homework. One of the first comments I hear when someone goes to the Sherwood or other well done modern products is "my soundstage really opened up and is more detailed".

I think people should keep in mind too, that I have and continue to bring in a lot of high end gear so I don't make these observations without merit. I don't mention a lot of brands simply because my job is to point to the good and not put down anyone's specific brand. That's not what I'm about. However, I also feel responsible to tell the truth and the fact is HEA is no longer ahead of the curve.

Michael Green

www.michaelgreenaudio.net

Hi Loomis

Thanks, I appreciate that! Yep, my point may have been taken a little out of context by cj. Or I wasn't being clear enough. I can also see why folks would get rattled when that sales pitch line gets rolling. Sometimes it's hard to see excitement vs salesman, especially in this hobby lol.

My comment was based on this from the OP

"Until you have a chance to try a piece of equipment in your home in your system in your room, you can only speculate as to what it will sound like."

Without going overboard I was trying to say how we all have a different point of reference when we talk about our setups, and how we evaluate sound from components. My conclusions on what is good or not so good is from a certain method of listening, and I felt it important to include that.

So thanks again, I didn't want to respond to cj and come off rude.

Michael Green

www.michaelgreenaudio.net