Most projectors don't meet their "claimed" lumens rating when calibrated properly. I think the best (like JVC) could do 600-800 lumens (depending on zoom etc), and most were doing 300-500.
With 3D, some projectors "cheat" a little by using the brightest (non calibrated) mode for 3D, then use the tint in the 3D glasses to compensate a little.
But whatever lumens you have gets halved immediately with active 3D (since only one "eye" is active at any one time) and then that gets chopped further to account for switching between L an R images.
Be prepared to lose up to 70% of the lumens. That's why a lot of 3D projector owners prefer high gain screens.
ps if you can live with a 2 projector set up, I'd recommend an old JVC RS35/25/15/HD250 (preowned) for ultimate black/contrast and then get an Optoma HD33/3300 for 3D duties. This is IMHO the best of both worlds.
Most LCD/SXRD/DILA projectors aren't as well cut out for 3D (ghosting is still noticeable).
With 3D, some projectors "cheat" a little by using the brightest (non calibrated) mode for 3D, then use the tint in the 3D glasses to compensate a little.
But whatever lumens you have gets halved immediately with active 3D (since only one "eye" is active at any one time) and then that gets chopped further to account for switching between L an R images.
Be prepared to lose up to 70% of the lumens. That's why a lot of 3D projector owners prefer high gain screens.
ps if you can live with a 2 projector set up, I'd recommend an old JVC RS35/25/15/HD250 (preowned) for ultimate black/contrast and then get an Optoma HD33/3300 for 3D duties. This is IMHO the best of both worlds.
Most LCD/SXRD/DILA projectors aren't as well cut out for 3D (ghosting is still noticeable).