Von scheikert VR4jr what are you using ?

Just to update on what I am doing. I bought a pair of used Nuforce 8.02's. They are awfully small amps,but put out a lot of power and tight bass. Haven't decided yet if I'm going to keep them, it's a toss up between these and my 80 lb V12. They both sound great, just a little different.

mfsod

you may want to have your speakers checked out. the 3 pairs of binding posts are connected to the respective drivers. tops are for all the driveers in that module.... next down are for the mid bass... and bottom most are for the low end driver.... ensure the data lnik is removed. the brass plates are removed. don't connect anything to the speakers at that point, except which ever driver you wish to check out.... if when hooked from the amp to the driver, you get no sound... somethings up.... somewhere.... change to another driver... and so on.... trust me here... what I said does work. If it isn't on yours then you have an issue.... Hope things turn out OK

Blindjim,
I just got off the phone with VonSchweikert, and they confirmed my previous post, in that:
1) The upper pair of posts on the woofer module are ONLY connected to the datalink port on the woofer module. They are not connected to any drivers UNLESS you use the jumpers (to connect to the woofers) or the datalink or jumper cables(to connect to the midrange and tweeter.
2) There is no need to ever connect speaker cables to all three pairs of binding posts, since only two of the pairs are connected to drivers.
3) The preferred way to biwire the speakers is to connect cables to the posts on the upper mid/tweeter module and only the lower pair of posts on the woofer module, without any jumpers or datalink.
4) When one connects speaker cables only to the upper posts on the woofer module, without using jumpers, there will be no sound since there are no speakers connected to these posts.
5) VonSchweikert, too, sees VR4JRs set up at dealers with cables connected to all three pairs of binding posts, and they are shocked by it and correct this immediately.

That's the word from the factory, and they admit that the manual could be a little clearer and that some users are confused about the right way to hook 'em up.

Mfsoa

I do appreciate that bit of info... I suppose it depends on who you speak with at VSA... AND maybe when... a dealer showed me, or rather told me the method I wrote about above... I called VXA too a bit thereafter on a setup issue and made mention of it to them... I only wrote what both the dealer and VSA had told me and I will remove the other wires driving the speakers shortly and find out for myself once more... it’s been a while since I checked it… and I do know using one set of bi wires that span only from the top most pair of posts on the bass module to the upper module will significantly reduce the bottom end response. That’s the first way I hooked them up when I got the first set of Syn biwires… and leaving the plates on… Figuring plates are the connection for both drivers, and the biwires not with great enough span to hook to the very bottom and top most posts… I added the other set of wires I had laying about to the very bottom posts, and used the biwires to do the other two posts… I removed the plates at that point too, so as not to cause any shorts… and was instructed to do so by a dealer… and VSA. Not to mention it just made sense… aa with so many others that’s what you do when biwiring… remove the plates.

Five sets of speakers that I’ve owned in the past have ALL said to do just that when bi wiring, or bi amping. I didn’t see VSA as any different. Still don’t actually.

What gets me about this recent info is this, "If there is an internal connection of the two bass module drivers... Why then, is there a brass plate on the outside of the bass module ‘apparently’ connecting those two drivers?" Especially if they are hooked up on the inside. I would think the brass plates on the outside supurfulus, or at the very lezst redundant. Then there's the question,"Why are they there if not to connect two different drivers?"

AS with so many other speakers... brass plates do in fact connect different sets of drivers.... seems silly to do it internally, and externally as well. Don’t you think?

It ain’t just the book that is confusing….

Brass or Silver plates on backs of speakers have to me, anyways, always been there as a conductor. removing them removes the path for current, or the signal to flow... and current don't flow backwards... so I'm lost if the connecting plates are either redundant or do not serve to connect the two drivers. Am I making sense?

ONe thing about the JR's... Selfexplannatory or even simple, they ain't.

Mfsoa is correct, the bottom posts of the woofer cabinet are connected to the 2 woofers (in parallel).
The upper posts of the woofer cabinet connect to the umbilical jack only. With the binding post jumper plates installed, this allows you to use a single pair of cables (and the umbilical) to run the entire speaker.

We've found the best method is to connect your main cables to the upper cabinet, and use heavy jumpers from there to the woofer binding posts. This allows the purist connection from amplifier to mid & tweeter, and you eliminate the supplied umbilical and the jumper plates at the binding posts.