Can someone explain how power cords help if...

Thanks for the kind words. Believe me, i had a helluva time "staying away" from Agon. I still don't like the way that some things are being handled, but as i myself mentioned before, it is their site to do with as they please. Love it or leave it and evidently, i love it more than i want to leave. Besides that, i'm tired of arguing with people at AA and would rather just share ideas : )

As to Vvrinc's comments, i don't know if Bryston uses the same exact design / lay-out for all of their various models / power supplies or not. On top of that, it is possible that you were experiencing voltage sag with the stock cord that you weren't with the heavier aftermarket cord. I do not know the specifics of the stock Bryston cord and the aftermarket cord that you used, but this could account for a few things. Since the sags would primarily take place on transient bursts or long duration, high current demand passages, the dynamic contrasts of the amp would be the most likely to demonstrate such a problem.

Having said that, bare in mind that wire gauge is not all there is to building a "good" power cord. Obviously, voltage sag is one aspect that is measureable but my personal thoughts are that there are a lot of other factors at play here. Starting off with a heavy gauge cord that is of a low inductance design will get you most of what you are looking for in a power cord. If you can find those attributes at a reasonable price, go for it. Chances are, you won't be sorry and it will be a step up from a stock cord. Sean
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Hi Sean. I too find AA difficult...as well unnavigable at best. Just wanted to chime in with my firmly-held belief that very-low dielectric involvement insulation (DISCLAIMER: like the Teflons used in my DIY PC Kits) is in most instances more important than huge amonts of copper, except of course in kilowatt monos.
Indeed power supply design is always the overriding factor. Yet even in (supposedly) highly-sophisticated supplies one can hear improvements in upper octaves transparency and staging depth when changing to a PC with superior insulation. Air and/or Teflon are simply better than cheap plastics/rubber/cotton, etc. By this statement I do NOT mean to condone the current over-spending for PCs, as you probably know, as PCs of the best materials should still be VERY affordable, after all.

FWIW, I too am of the belief that after a certain point, the gauge of the wire has little influence. I also agree with the 'guru that even with the best power supply designs, anything that the cord can pitch in with respect to shielding or superior insulation materials. I also share his opinion that good PC's can be affordable (I made my own as well).

However, one thing that nobody has mentioned yet is the importance of good connectors on either end of the cord. Loose electrical connections are noisy, and don't transfer energy efficiently. Over time, these loose connections can get pitted and coroded, further degrading the transfer of electrical energy, and therefor the performance of the equipment being powered.

On a side note, ditto the sentiments regarding AA, especially the navigation part. I have always found A'gon more user-friendly, at least as informative, and certainly more civilized (except when somebody starts bashing tubes, then the fangs come out).

Mike

Yes, connectIONS are important, but connector cost is often NOT correllated with performance! I use an affordable all-black Leviton AC male, for example, that outperforms its, and other, 5266's simply by the ABSENCE of the unnecessary cheap-dielectric wire guides that as well only use ONE SIDE of each T-shaped screw-clamp. In a multiwire/conductor cable (like star-quad or more), being able to evenly distribute the mechanical load symmetrically across the two sides of a T-shaped screw-clamp is a great advantage. And of course air is a better insulator than the $$ plug's nylon "guide". Since the brass contacts are identical, it's a winner. Similarly some folks spend too much on fancier-sounding IECs than necessary. The fairly-new affordable Schurter with all-brass screw-clamp terminal "beds" is a clear winner...especially if you slightly bend its readily-accessible spade-leaves toward parallel for more surface area of contact. (Don't do this to the ground, though, as you'll lose too much stiction with a loose component IEC female.) Nothing like hardwiring, guys....