Signal or load required for break-in?


Have new Odyssey Stratos monoblock amps shipping soon. Unfortunately, we will be moving shortly, and I'll probably delay gratification and not take on the major project necessary to remove, shuffle and rewire the entire audio/HT set-up I have stuffed into our entertainment center. (I hate that thing and will be purchasing a rotating audio rack(AVRack) for the relocation also.) If I take the new amps, plug them in to power, but don't run a source signal through them, (or obviously load them with two speakers), can several weeks of break-in time be acheived? What, if any, benefit might I realize? Thanks.
tvc15
Aragain, i think that TVC knows that and was just "having fun" at Al's expense.

As to my comment about "breaking in" gear exclusively with David Bowie tunes, "TVC 15" is the name of one of his songs. I didn't want someone else that didn't know that to think that i was SERIOUSLY recommending that : ) Sean
>
"TVC15" - Sean what a great old rockin' Bowie tune; should make for some good breakin' jams!
Now for those dummy loads that Tvc wants to build... I use 20 watt Ohmite wirewounds in a series-parallel arrangement to achieve an 8 ohm measurement-load in my shop, but for this purpose I'd want a lower resistance network. 4 ohms is a nice number but that value may not be available in high power at RadioShaft? I don't know what resistance values they have available & in stock without looking it up, & I'm not about to attempt teaching Ohm's law here on a forum.
Tvc try to get a quantity 16ea. (16 for each channel & you have four total channels) of 5 ohm power resistors, preferrably wirewounds or ceramics rated 5 or 10 watts apiece, although 5 watts would be acceptable. Just get whatever you can find easily as it is not all that critical. Solder up four strings ea. of 5 ohms R's in series. Now solder those 4 strings parallel to each other, to achieve a 5 ohm load network. The leads in between the series R's strings must not touch each other, only the ends of the strings can connect together. Attach some 18 gauge stranded copper wire pigtails, then crimp or solder some spade lugs that will fit your amp's binding posts. While fabricating, you could use some stripped THHN insulation or tubing etc. as spaghetti for insulation on the network's leads to prevent short circuits. It must withstand a LOT of heat, so if you build carefully then insulation may not be needed & in fact could melt & burn, so watch out! If you use 5 watts R's then you'll have an 80 watt load, or if using 10 watt R's then it's a 160 watt load which is plenty for this job.
Now as you apply the (test signal) or music signal into the amp, it will of course begin to output power relative to the applied input level. DO NOT get carried away such that you go into clipping. If you don't have an oscilloscope, be very careful as input drive is gradually increased. The resistor dummy load will begin to warm up; it can be warm, in fact it will get hot & that is OK. But too much power will burn up the amp or the network or both, so use caution & err on the low side especially if you don't have a meter or scope to monitor your output power levels. Also: place the dummy loads on a glass dish or ash tray so you don't burn up your workbench.
Sorry for the length of this post I'm trying to be reasonably specific without going on & on...
Yeah, Sean. Sorry about the Al Gore line. I'll stop whippin' that dead horse. Forgot just how straight-faced a delivery this venue provides. I appreciate the info from Bob and yourself. Have a feeling the details of this break-in scheme are a bit over my head, and quite frankly, I'm not really inclined to risk my not-yet-delivered Stratos monos. I'd hate to short something. Klaus is a very fine gentleman, but my warranty would be toast also. I'm a woodworker not a solder-slinger. I'll prolly jus mellow 'em out the old fashioned way. But I have learned something, and may, therefore, take the rest of the day off. Thanks all.