Idea to reduce RFI

I was also troubled by an unshielded interconnect previously.So I added an copper braided shield which was gounded with a drain wire.The drain wire is then connected to a small DC battery and a 0.22uf capacitor.WOW!!the sound was fantastic very life-like,much more detail and 3 D like.The soundstage just open up with greater depth and height.I think this active shield help eliminate the RFI/EMI. Now I can never enjoy without the DIY active shield on,it is that good.

Well, it seems I am the resident expert in this respect, so I thought I might help a little. You cannot shield anything with ERS cloth since it does not work (does nothing) under real testing. Do not waste your money. The best thing to do is yank your siding and cover the side of your house (or more) with MuMetal or any type of ferrite metal roll. For a smaller scale project, you may attach to walls around the equipment. It is wise to use two or more layers of dialectic with non-conductive spacers, this attenuates induction within permittivity of the two combating e fields when inducted from the air in reversing current. The non-conductive spacers may be selected of differing thicknesses to address the actual frequencies causing issues.

Sadly, this is part of buying a home near radio towers, cellular / microwave towers, repeaters and power stations as the source induction can occur with a miriad problems in the audible frequency once your equipment makes sense of it. You can go "Mork and Mindy" and wrap everything in shields till you find the worst inducting unit or cable. Some power conditioners will help if the signal is coming in from house wiring or the power path... but this could be into your signal path and a conditioner or other "plug into" isolator will do nothing. Induction occurs into wires, IC's, PCB's and other small ferrite objects, even if we don't like it.

Hope this helps!

Tigerclose, mind share how the active shield is conducted? how you actually connect the 0.22uF cap? any schematic or wiring diagram? thx in adv

Milen,it is very simple.Just connect one end of the drain wire and the capacitor to the anode.Then the other drain wire from the fellow interconnect and another capacitor is connected to the cathode of a 9V DC battery.I use a spare pair of Audio note copper paper in oil 0.22uf capacitor (best sounding so far) ,so one end of the capacitor is connected and the other end is left unconnected.Also I discovered that ferrit core around ONE proximal and BOTH the distal terminal of the speaker cable definitely help to improve the sound as well.Happy tweaking!

Milen,it is very simple.Just connect one end of the drain wire and the capacitor to the anode.Then the other drain wire from the fellow interconnect and another capacitor is connected to the cathode of a 9V DC battery.I use a pair of Audio note copper paper in oil 0.22uf capacitor (best sounding so far) ,so one end of the capacitor is connected and the other end is left unconnected.Also I discovered that ferrit core around ONE proximal and BOTH the distal terminal of the speaker cable definitely help to improve the sound as well.Happy tweaking!