VPI Classic and ZYX 4D

Are you sure you have the "SB2"? Weigh the cartridge. The standard model, at 4 grams, would be likely to have the problem you are experiencing.

If the cart weighs 7.9 grams as advertised, then the problem must lie elsewhere.

The VPI tonearms have, in addition to the counterweight, a fine weight adjustment screw that is accessed and adjusted with an allen wrench on the back end of the arm. Make sure it's not set all the way down into the armwand.

If it's not that, disconnect your anti-skate device to ensure that it's not causing this problem.

If it's not that, make sure the arm is not contacting the arm lift mechanism at all when you lower the needle to the record surface.

Hope this helps.

Tom

Correction to my suggestion about the fine adjustment screw. If it was set all the way down into the armwand, then your VTF would be higher, not lower. So ensure that the opposite is not the case (adjustment screw protruding from the back of the armwand).

Tom

Hi,

yes I am sure I have the SB2 option as I can see the silver base at the top of the cartridge.
I temporarly fixed the issue using the screws supplied by VPI (they came with the TT) that are heavier than the screws they come with the cartridge.
With those screws, pushing the couterweight all the wai in I can measure a tracking force of 1.95gr whch is basically what I wanted to have.
the only thing is that the coutereight is pushed all the wai forward and touches the base of the arm.
I don't know if this might be a problem for the sound or not.

Am I wrong by saying that the closest the counterweight to the pivot of the arm the better it is?
If so, then wound't it be a good thing the fact that I have to push the weight all the way in?

I will check the fine adjustment's screw.

BTW the lifting cue mechanism is released and the arm is freely moving and there is no external antiskating installed.

I just had this problem with an Ortofon Red in a Scout arm. The permanent solution is to get a different counterweight from VPI. The temporary one, which worked fine for me, was to fix a nickel to the top of the headshell [or where the headshell would be if it were detachable] with a small bit of Blutak. You can now move the counterweight back, I think it sounds better farther back even if you can squeeze out the correct force by having it very close. Not particularly esthetic but sounded good.