Vinyl sounds a bit thin and slightly strident.


The analog side of my system looks like this:
Benz Micro Ebony H Cartridge(Broken in). VTF around 1.9g.
No Headshell weight.
VPI Scout/JMW-9 Signature Arm(Wired w/Nordost Valhalla)
Cardas Neutral Ref Phono Balanced.
Audio Research PH-2 Balanced Phono Pre
Cardas Neutral Reference IC's
Audio Research LS-7 Preamp w/Electro-Harmonix Tubes from ARC
Cardas Hexlink 5C
Mark Levinson No.331
Purist Audio Design Aqueous Bi-wire
B&W Nautilus 803S
I recently purchased a used Sony 9000ES SACD player and noticed I could listen for extended periods of time and I just kept wanting to play music because it is a great sounding player and very engaging and realized that I'm having a hard time getting as involved with my vinyl rig and I've concluded that the big contributing factors are a lack of bass weight, mid-bass bloom and the top end is a bit strident.
Has anyone else had a problem such as this? And what device(s) should I tweak or change in order to alleviate these sonic characteristics? I suspect my overhang may be off and a contributing factor due to just using the stock VPI protractor. I want to get a Wally Tractor soon.
Any thoughts?
n803nut
I had that problem when I owned a Ruby 2. The line contact stylus Benz uses is a pia to get the VTA right with. Make sure your arm is sloped down in the back a bit and keep the stylus clean as a possible.
Just to expand on my above comment, I bought the ARC PH-2 new together with an ARC VT-130 amp. Afterwards I purchased the factory-sanctioned Infinicap upgrade to replace stock MIT PPMXS coupling caps in the VT-130-- a worthwhile improvement that remediated exactly the problems across FR that you mention. While the PH-2 uses good MIT RTX and Wima film caps in most sections, in four critical coupling positions it has the same MIT PPMXS as the VT-130, and the associated sonic compromise. As by then ARC had replaced PH-2 with PH-3, there was no reason for the factory to revisit selection of piece parts. But trust me on this one, if you pull those four PPMXS output caps and replace with Multicap PPFXS, Mundorf, or equivalent, you will be happy.

PS I still have the PH-2. Subject to its gain limitations, after lite modding it compares favorably with far more expensive phono stages. The PH-3 that followed was a lesser budget piece.
Dgarretson, I like what I'm hearing... My PH-2 has Infinicaps in it now, not sure the model. My LS-7 has Rel-Caps so I suspect they could be upgraded. I spent some time yesterday and rechecked overhang using the VPI supplied protractor and made some adjustments there and subsequently to the VTF and VTA. I had noticed before the changes that the VTF was too low and I don't know how that could be unless either the retaining screw came loose on the counterweight and it moved or my digital scale wasn't calibrated or working properly when I set the arm up. That was a large source of the stridency I was hearing due to mistracking. However, after changing those settings the characteristic that still is lacking is more body/fullness in the midbass. It's not severe but this tends to detract from the emotional richness during playback for me. Do you still think that is a capacitor issue? I haven't experimented with doing any changes to capacitors before although I'm open to suggestions. Can changing the loading affect the midbass? I thought that loading would only change the high frequency rolloff. The cart is loaded at 2.5K Ohm and the capacitance of the Cardas Neutral Reference Phono.
It sounds like the phono stage had a makeover. Over the next week I'll try comparing the PH-2 to a couple of tube phono stages around here. You may just be hearing the leaner tonality of SS. Though not specifically targetting bass response, to generally improve phono you might try something like my spring/sandbox platform, which has been implemented by user Islandman on a Scout. He also likes Mapleshade Nanomounts on VPI JMW arm. An oil coupling cap such Mundorf Silver would also tend to flesh out bass and midrange. I'm sure the PH-2 could be improved significantly with a few hundred dollars of Texas Components TX2575 resistors for loading & in signal path in circuit. This is not too hard to do or to have done by a tech, as ARC freely distributes schematics.
Awesome! Thanks. Any thoughts on the component parts and tubes for the LS-7? Jafox(listed above) had stated this:

One thing to do right away is get rid of those ARC supplied EH tubes. These are almost as horrible as the Sovtek. You will not believe how significant Telefunken, Mullard, Amperex, etc., 6922/6DJ8 tubes would make on the LS7. The midrange textures, decays and smoothness in the mids will be quite a surprise.

I agree because I feel the Sovteks were better than the EH tubes if memory serves me correctly. My question is which one to choose?

Any component upgrades would be easy for me to perform. I don't really want to have to change out gear if I don't have to. I feel I could improve on what I already have.
Where do you trust getting the component parts you mentioned?