How good is the Micro Seiki DDX-1000 Direct Drive turntable ?

I have a Speed Controller that has been built by the Designer.
When used on a Stock Lenco - Stock Lenco with Bearing Overhaul and PTP Solid 9 it provides a noticeable improvement to a performance.

My Speed Controller as good as it is, has been compared to Two other Speed Controllers.
The comparison was done on a friends System on a
Overhauled Lenco GL 75 mounted in a Heavy Plinth with a Overhauled SME 3009.
My Speed Controller was the least impressive in these comparisons.

All Three Speed Controllers had a much improved effect on the performance over the Direct Mains Power Supply. 
The owner of the System used on this occasion has Garrard 401's and
Vintage DD TT's, he is Wed to his Lenco's.
Since this comparison my friend has introduced a New Tonearm > Cartridge to be used with the GL 75's.

GL 75's can still be found today at very reasonable money, some buyers are getting on board with a project, some buyers are hoarding Lenco Idler Drives, what ever the reason to purchase, they are safe Punt Purchases. For a Beginner or Experienced Individual with a interest,
there is a lot of support available on how to take them beyond stock condition.
Platter/ Motor Bearing Overhauls, Complete Exchange Platter Bearings,
Redesigned Motor Drive assemblies, Chassis Modifications, Numerous Plinth Designs, through to complete Redesign PTP Kits using a Stock Lenco as a Donor for the parts.
The Idler Drive Lenco's are a wonderful place to begin a Journey into Vintage TT Ownership. 

Never had any issues with my vintage Direct Drive turntables, no matter Technic or Denon. Paid $1200 for MINT condition SP-10 mkII and used for about 7 years myself, sold for $1500 to a friend locally. Tried many SP-20 (all like new). Purchased Denon DP-80 in MINT condition (no problem). Using two Luxman PD-444, one of them has been serviced by previous user in Japan, another is original, no difference in sound! 

And yes, there is only one vintage DD turntable that must be serviced, it's Victor TT-101 (so we shipped to jp jones).  

If someone can't buy a perfectly working original unit in mint condition it's not the reason to say that all of them must be serviced. 

I have no problem with vintage DD turntables and this is MAIN reason I like them so much! 

The Beginner and Experienced, but ' Yet to be Initiated ' into the usage of Vintage TT's from either DD TT's or Idler Drive TT's can make a valuable assessment of how to proceed, if they are fortunate to dicover this thread during any investigation that is undertaken.

Different Individuals are having different experiences in how they view the condition of their TT's.
I have not identified the Brands of DD TT's that have had issues requiring attention from a supporting service after my inspections were undertaken.

From assessing reports being offered by other Posts, there is a overlap of Brands being referred to, this is a good thing, as it does mean commonly selected DD TT's are to be purchased with a condition that needs correcting.   

What is not known at present is how intensive and Intrusive the Inspections undertaken has been carried out by each individual.

My Purchases remain untouched as found, prior to any inspections.

I do not condone forcing a little oil down the Top entry point of the Spindle Bearing Housing to be a 'Long Term Fix all'.
As there are reports of Bearing Housings being discovered to be dry in reports across various forums.
A Flush Clean and Re-lubrication of a Bearing Housing is in my view the basic goal to be achieved.      

The Spindle is immediately checked for any noticeable Sideways Movement.
Spindles can lift in the Vertical Plain so this can be discovered on various Brands when removing a Platter, it should not be causing any concerns.

The TT's are initially inspected with a Off Board Strobe Speed Measure,
to help Identify if any thing is showing up with the TT's Speed.
Any obvious anomalies discovered with Speed, can mean a Mechanical or Electronics Issue.
I check the Brake Speed, as very noticeable variations in this can mean that there are underlying Electronic Concerns.
On the same Brands I have, the Stop Time has been almost a instant Stop,  through to taking Multiple Seconds, to come to a Stop. 
Once this is done the TT remains unused, awaiting further investigation. 
When time allows, the Bearing Housing is detached from the Chassis.
Followed by the removal of the Spindle and the Spindle Housing Thrust Pad Base Assembly of Parts.
A decision will be made if the TT is to be dealt with by myself or if it is to be made available to an Individual who has better Skill Sets than my own for fixing a Electronics or Bearing Issue.
As to Bearing Spindles a Interference Fitted Steel Ball at the Base can be removed if seen with damage and replaced with a Modern Material Ball or Original Steel Ball.
One might just want to exchange it for a Modern Material Ball to achieve the benefits to be gained from using the material.
The same as stated above,  can be said for the Thrust Pad.

For this interface, Spindle > Thrust Pad, I will suggest using materials that have a interface that generates a very Low - Coefficient of Friction.

Note: Separate all Plastic Parts if a Flushing Solution is to be used
that could cause Plastic to Deteriorate.
Only expose Plastic Parts to a Weak Detergent as a Flushing/Cleaning Solution.
It a Plastic Part is a Non Removable Part, the Flushing of Metal Part will be best carried out with the Weak Detergent.  

When the Spindle Housing inspected, if there are no Plastic Parts contained within it, the Shaft can be flushed Clean of all original Lubricant Residuals as the Minimum Treatment.
The Flushing Solution will need to removed and the Housing will need to dried. 
The Spindle can also be cleaned of the Staining that can seen on the Submerged Area.
Some will choose to Lap Clean the Spindle before considering reusing it.

When considering the Bushes within the Spindle Housing, there are a few options that can be used.
If they are Metal, ( Sintered/Phosphor Bronze they can remain in place and undergo the Flush Clean Treatment for the Shaft.

Another Option is to have a selection of Bushes ( Sintered / Phosphor Bronze ) ordered in and select a Bush with a Internal OD that has a improved Tolerance over the insitu Bush, in relation to the Spindle Diameter.
The Other and not so common option is to have a Bush made to Match the Spindle using a Modern Material that has properties that support a 
Low - Coefficient of Friction Function.

The TT's that I intend on using for the Longterm are undergoing the Support from a Individual, where the minimum Treatment is for a Replacement Spindle Ball > Thrust Pad > Bush using Modern Materials.
The TT's I own are all intended to have undergone a Bearing Housing Inspection and Servicing/ Overhaul whilst in my possession.

The above Inspections and Servicing / Modifications are not offered as a being a necessary requirement, they are just my record of how a Inspection can show a unwanted anomaly.
The Operations can be undertaken to any level of the above,
if a Individual has a interest in carrying out a extra activity around their owned Vintage TT's. 

I gave the go ahead last year to an Engineer,  for another individuals Bearing Overhaul Project to be prioritised over my own requested work.
This Overhaul has a proportion of the Work that I am requesting to be carried out.
I have in the Past Day been invited to listen to the Overhauled and Modified Vintage Japanese DD TT Bearing Housing Assembly as soon as the UK lifts the COVID Measures and allows for meetings within a home.

I can bring one of my Original Spec TT's of the same brand to carry out a comparison, as well as compare the TT's to the Engineers,
Electronics / Mechanical Modified SP10 Mk II. 

Reports of past experiences undertaken,  have shown, 
during Original Spec DD TT comparisons, that the Engineers SP10 Mk II is a very impressive and desirable TT to own.  
                 

Hi @sdrsdrsdr ,

Thank you for sharing your experience about DD EMT turntable in comparison to SP10 MK2 and Dennon 80.
I had discussion on these  forums and told about my and my friends expiriese how much better DD EMT 950, 948 compared to SP mk2, Garrad 401, Thorens 124, Sota, Nottingham, Lenco and other similar stuff.
But most of local audiophile who have zero experience with EMT turntables told be that SP mk2 is much better turntable.


Regards,
Alex. 

I had discussion on these forums and told about my and my friends expiriese how much better DD EMT 950, 948 compared to SP mk2, Garrad 401, Thorens 124, Sota, Nottingham, Lenco and other similar stuff.

Do you realize the price difference between top EMT and everything else in your list ?

Technics is not "similar stuff" if you put it next to Belt Drive turntables like Sota, Thorens or inder drive like Garrard, Lenco. Those are completely different turntables. Do you know what is Lenco (or Thorens) ? Look at the original Lenco before all the tweaks. How can you compare this to the Technics SP-10 mkII Direct Drive ???

But most of local audiophile who have zero experience with EMT turntables told be that SP mk2 is much better turntable.

SP-10 mkII drive cost $1500 in MINT condition, EPA-100 or EPA-100 mkII are much better tonearms than any EMT tonearm (designed mostly for EMT cartridges only).

When someone comparing the sound of the drive itself i’m getting sick.

Most likely they are comparing the sound of cartridge and tonearm, because to compare drives everything else must be identical.

EMT is definitely good broadcast turntable, huge and very expensive (overpriced to be correct). Nice for collection if you’re rich enough, but SP-10 mkII and EPA-100 are "best buy", superb quality for reasonable price. You can pay $20 000 more pretending for improvement, but it will not happen. Technics SP-10 mkII drive in a custom plinth with great tonearm will cost you less than $5000.

However, this is better.