More Power or use subwoofer to boost bass for music


Hi,   just want to know if anyone can offer their opinions on how to boost the bass when listening to 2 channel music.

I just got a pair of B&W 804 D3 and would like to get more bass out of the speakers.   I remember the bass was pretty punchy when I heard it in the dealer showroom, but I don't seem to get that in my setup.   I currently have Parasound A31 power amp with 250 watts per channel.

So the question is whether I should get a more power amp, or add subwoofer to my 2 channel music.  I'm a little bit of a purist and would prefer not to use a subwoofer for music, but I'm open to this option.

I would definitely appreciate if anyone can share their experience/opinion.   Thanks very much.
128x128xcool
Hi very intresting tread and i want to add a little focus to another detail.

its ofcourse very importaint with the correct speaker placement but it is the same for the placement of the lisining position.
long ago Kevin Woecks from Shell/ Revel designed a smart software to calculate the first 3 standing waves in all 3 direktions x,y, z for the individual room size you plottet in.
The program even suggested some ideal ( best compromise ) placement for the speakers and the lisining position.
Beside that, you could print out the result and see how the standing waves increased or decreased when you changed positions of the speaker or lisining position.
Again in all direktions x,y and z.
This is a very nice tool to start your positioning. Depending on you speakers response in the bass you can make position corrections and actually have an idear what will happend.
Maybee some dealer still has the program installed and can help you.
If the standing waves are better controled it makes the bass feel more lifelike with better artikulation and punch beside that the midrange opends up.

I also expirenced that correct decoupling of all the equipment strongly affects the sound and in particular the bass very much but thats comon known but is actually also is very importaint what else you have in you lisining room. Every item that is in the room will somehow absorb music energy ( air preassure ) and even contribute to the sound with resonances, so you need to find a good ballance here too.

Also the placement of all the  equipment is critical and the worst place is right between the speakers where the SPL has the highest level. 

A cheap tweak is to get the equipment including all the cabels away from the floor so that there is no direct pfysical path for the vibrations between the speakers and equipment. 
Solid floor, walls and roof minimises the absorbtion of the depest bass but can be difficult to change but that might be a huge diffrence between the dealers room and yours.
I too think a pair of active subwoofer with frequency correction are a easy way the solve many of the problems in the bass range. And they have become so easy to operate via build in automation. 
 
Stay healthy and enjoy the music.

It you're thinking about a new pre amp you could demo the Anthem STR and play with ARC (Anthem's room correction). Also equipped with a very nice DAC. 

Good luck!
One interesting and inexpensive method to adjust your frequency response humps and dips in the room is to use the built in parametric EQ function in Roon - you can even use Roon for 14 days for free to try it out, play around with the EQ and if you can boost bass in the right frequency ranges and avoid "bloat" you may find that the $129 for a year is well worth it in addition to the user interface it provides...
I am amazed at the hostility evident on threads like this with people who have apparently never tried something reacting negatively towards it and offering 'advice' which in some cases is clearly wrong.

The DBA concept works, and works in such a way that it seems to defy credulity. Yes its science and reading Toole, Geddes and Beranek will bear this out, although the latter is heavy going.

In a nutshell, the multiple sub approach will smooth out the bass, something that can not be achieved with EQ. I can understand the general reluctance to adopt this approach with all the imagined clutter and inconvenience. If that is the main objection then I suppose your turntable, pre and power amp/s, steamer, dac, a stand or two to house it all and then speakers and cables across the floor can also be considered as clutter. Its part of what it takes to enjoy music. A little imagination can reduce the perceived clutter by using a sub as support for a bookshelf or have a lamp or beautiful plant placed on top etc.

Bass traps will also smooth out the response. Multiple standing waves in a room combine constructively and destructively causing peaks and nulls and  the traps help with this and more importantly reduce the decay time.

Science shows that if the reflected sound is not delayed by 6ms. minimum, relative to the direct sound, the ear has trouble differentiating between the two, resulting in detail smear, so do not push the speakers towards the corners for more bass as someone earlier suggested.

Science also shows that there is a target reverberation time that is required for optimum audio reproduction. This is not guesswork, there are tables providing this information and it will be seen that it varies according to the size of the room. It demands the sound decay evenly across the spectrum by 60dB in about 400ms. for the average listening room. This is known as T60

I fully agree with a DBA but they need to obey the T60 rule. Bass traps, Big Bad Bass Traps. Untamed bass, no matter how smooth, if left to decay naturally will cause congestion and obscure detail.

Correct decay time is achieved by introducing absorption. There is much to be gained by reading up on how to accomplish this and also, if you are serious, by measuring the effects of any treatment you add. REW and Holm Impulse are free to download, then buy a suitable microphone. Will be your cheapest and most useful investment ever.

Science also shows that to absorb low frequencies (bass) it requires large space-taking devices. They of course can also be mounted hotizontaly up high against the wall/ceiling corners where they are out of the way, unless you are consuming strange substances and spend time flying around the room  :)  Do a search for DIY superchunk bass traps.  If any body thinks that little pieces of foam will absorb bass, they won't.  Look at the formula:  Lambda=velocity/frequency,  where velocity of sound is 343m/s That means 100Hz wavelength is 3.43 meters long!

I have recently installed bass traps in the two front corners of my room running vertically from floor to ceiling and measure 900mm (35.5") across. They have made a remarkable difference but measurement shows I need more!

@OP to address your question after this long winded rant, I suggest you will be fine with your existing amp. Look seriously at room treatment and get a sub or 2 or 3 or 4. Strongly recommend acquiring the means to measure your room. I see guys paying much more for a power cable and I think I can safely guarantee a treated room will have a HUGE transformative result. I have a friend with the same speakers you have driven by a 135W Bryston integrated amp producing tight, clean bass after some basic room treatments.

@millercarbon: It appears you have spent considerable time and money on your room but one picture shows some black foam looking things in the wall/wall corners and tiny pieces in the upper trihedrals. If they are intended to absorb bass then I'm afraid they will be failing in that duty. I'm making an observation, not a criticism.


@ cowan21737  Hi, It would be great if it were that simple. The big peaks and dips/nulls happen at low frequency and boosting in that range will unduly tax the amplifier and the dip will largely remain due to cancellation.  Unfortunately that smoothing can really only be accomplished in 3 ways. Use multiple subs or bass traps or preferably both.