How’s it work. You place the jack near each spike and change each corner one at a time?
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No, you center the jack under the speaker’s center of gravity and raise the jack and the speaker lifts straight up. Replace the casters with spikes, lower, remove jack. The spikes are tall enough they keep the speaker off the floor enough so you can remove the jack, it’s only 1” tall. The main difference between the Wilson jack and the auto jack is that the Wilson has a flat plate that lifts up and the auto jack has a slightly U-shaped saddle. I suspect you might want to place something on the saddle to make for a flat lifting surface like the Wilson has. I’m sure you can come up with something for the $480 price difference between the two (the Wilson jack is $700.) 😁 falcio, did you find something for the saddle or is it not curved enough to dig in? http://parts.wilsonaudio.com/wilson-audio-flat-jack/ https://www.calcarcover.com/product/low-profile-billet-aluminum-jack/705 https://youtu.be/_4gdT8gjNaQ |
Kurcharsk I use a hard flat rubber over the u-shaped to avoid any contact with the loudspeaker's base paint. Pay attention to use the flat jack in the center of the smallest side of the loudspeaker (not too far from the edge). First, lift the front side. So, you can replace the two front casters with spikes. remove the jack and do the same at the rear side. Do not lift the loudspeaker too much. If you have someone to help you, it will be better to avoid an accident. Bests, Luiz Falcao |
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