Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
rauliruegas

Showing 50 responses by fleib

Griffithds, Square post housing is inadequate to describe the 100 series of styli (plugs), which the 155LC, 152MLP etc, belong. The 95/Clearaudio are also square and are part of the 3400 series which are not interchangeable with the 100 series. The third series is the older round plugs to which the Precept belongs. $139 seems like a lot of money for an alum/shibata. Is it even a nude? You tried a 20SS? Did you increase the VTF? TTNeedles has a Jico ATN12S for $88.
Regards,
Nandric, I think the PCN550 might be an original Precept stylus only mislabeled. It should be labeled the PCN100 or 110. This is conjecture of course and based on the observation that a far East imitation of a TOTL would probably be more convincing.

Don, If it's a nude square shank shibata I guess it's a good deal. I was assuming it's bonded. As I understand it, the ATN14 is bonded and the ATS14 is hit or miss. Some are bonded and some are nude. Both are $89 at Stereoneedles.

A couple of years ago I was looking at old styli at TurntableNeedles. I saw they had a waiting list for a long gone AT stylus with an exotic cantilever. Apparently they had been waiting for months and had an expected delivery date. How could this be? If they found a stash of old styli why wouldn't they buy it, take immediate delivery and sell them? I figured they were waiting for the paint to dry in China. Then they are probably shipped by that super cargo ship to Calif. They have the largest cargo ship in the World. It's so big it can't go through the Panama canal, it won't fit. It runs exclusively to Calif and goes back empty. The Chinese government is pretty smart. They've been selling off their share of the US gov debt and buying gold. I think they're down to around $1 trillion and Ft Knox is now located somewhere outside of Beijing. Don't tell anyone but the US is bankrupt. Yearly income is 2.5 trillion and debt is 17.6 trillion. They can't even balance the budget let alone pay down the debt. This might have little to do with phono carts, but after the next worldwide depression you'll be lucky if you have electricity to run your stereo.
Regards,

Aceman3, **With the Audio Technica 20ss stylus on the Precept body there is distortion in the midrange.**

Was it a tight fit? I've found some of the round plug styli are quite loose and need some blue tack. I think max VTF for 20SS is around 1.7 or 1.8g. Go through the range of SRA/VTA? If the cantilever length is slightly different, it could throw off your alignment.
Regards,
Griffithds, **Perhaps a PCN100 cantilever/stylus mounted in a PCN550ML housing. Pure Audio Technica, just a mistake.**

Possible, but highly unlikely. AT wouldn't use that color plastic for a TOTL stylus. Since nobody has seen a PC-550 that can't be verified, but when I received the 550 stylus, I didn't look at it under magnification because I knew it was bogus but wouldn't admit it to myself.
If I wasn't in denial I would have checked it out and sent it back. I looked at that listing for a couple of yrs and only pulled the trigger because I figured they would be unobtainium.

**But if by some miracle, a lost stash is found, those on that list would be offered the item first.**

Miracles are in movies. In real life they're manufactured and in this case come on a slow boat from China? LOL I'm a cynic, but how could this be described as beryllium/micro?
I think TTNeedles is a client of LpGear. Gear is a Jico distributor and an AT dealer. TTNeedles prob got the 550 from Gear and toned down the outrageous description, slightly. Such is life.
Regards,
Raul, I said all along I think it's a case of mistaken identity. I believe there was also a PC-100 and my guess is that the stylus belongs to either that or the 110.

Looking at the front of the cantilever under 30, or 40X, and there's no doubt that it's aluminum. It's folded over above the tip, just like other alum ones. We all have other AT styli with beryllium cantilevers and there's no mistaking the difference. The diamond appears to be a bonded spherical. As you know, this was advertised as beryllium/ML. No way.
Regards,
Don, Thanks, good information about the vital line. This seems to be an LpGear exclusive and they've already told someone on Karma that it comes from a company other than Jico, but they didn't say who. I'm trying a 95HE on my Virtuoso. It's not bad, but I expected better. I too found the shibata a little soft but nice, and the HE seems closer to the sound of a .3 x .7 elliptical.

I started a thread on Audio Circle about retipping and cantilever substitutions. A couple of people had their CA carts retipped at Soundsmith with excellent results. One had a Virtuoso with level 3, and the other had a Maestro with level 2. Both were pleased with the results. Adjustments had to be made with VTA/SRA. Raul has a boron/micro on his, and it seems to make sense, to send it off. For the price of a few aftermarket styli with straight alum cantilevers, you can (hopefully) max out performance.
Tubed1,
**Calling all Frankensurgeons
That compliance screw on the Acutex 3xx series of carts is just staring at me. This is tempting. Anyone know of an available shibata that would just slip right in there with a 15 degree stylus rake? I need advice the likes of glrickabilly or neo.**

Got in touch with Glrickaby - sorry, no experience with Acutex transplants. Unless someone else has done this, you're on your own. TurntableNeedles has a couple of orig styli including a M312III STR bonded shibata. Will also fit 315 and 320 of that series - $158, seems a little pricey. Maybe Axel is a better bet.
Regards,
Raul, I've never even seen a picture of a PC-550, perhaps I was referring to the stylus. However, all the stylus sellers list that model as top. They also list the PC-100 as bottom and stylus plastic color is unknown. The quality level of the 550 stylus we purchased looks like it should be on the PC-100.

The Acutex 312 stylus is listed as a bonded shibata on alum cantilever. I have no experience with Acutex, but it seems to me Axel can provide a superior replacement for a little more money. I've reached the conclusion that in the pursuit of excellence it is a false economy to buy anything but the best. Sometimes it's difficult to know exactly what's best, but I get the impression that Axel voices the cartridges.
Regards,
Look at the pictures on Asylum. See how the end of the cantilever in front of the diamond is folded over and the end of the cantilever is curved? This looks the same as aluminum. The only way that could be beryllium is if has another metal covering the beryllium which is folded. If you look at other pictures of beryllium and aluminum cantilevers from the same angle you'll see what I mean. There's no mistaking this.

I stated that I didn't have enough magnification to tell the cut of the diamond. In the pictures it seems to be an extended contact type. In the last pic it looks like a shibata, but that could be the angle. It might even be an early micro line, but it's bonded, not a nude square shank and the cantilever isn't beryllium. Based on the results I was getting, it might sound half decent loaded down, like an AT-440ML, only it's of lesser quality.
Regards,
Don,
I don't understand how a PC440 could have a beryllium and presumably nude square shank LC, while the 550 has aluminum and bonded whatever it is.

I know of at least one instance where AT made a bonded ML on a straight alum cantilever. It's the 3472ML - P mount stylus. Dk green plastic, will fit the CA with plastic trim. I haven't tried it. IMO these ATs need exotic cantilevers to really excel. That's what sold me on the 550.
Regards,
Halcro,
The SAS tip is virtually the same as a microridge or
microline. It has a boron cantilever which is the main difference between it, and what Axel made for you. This would be similar to the difference between an ATN440MLa and an ATN150MLX.
Regards,
It has come to my attention that Goldenote (formerly Blurnote) has a new MM cart, the Babele. This replaces an older Babele, a HOMC?
Like the CA MM line, this is custom made for Goldenote by AT. The top has threaded inserts for mounting. With an impedance of 470 ohms and an output of 3mV it could be a great cart. That impedance would indicate the use of PCC wire, and like the CA line, would take AT95 type replacement styli. I haven't heard this cart, just a heads up.
Regards,
Don,
I haven't heard the new Babele. Like a CA, it's a custom made generator in a 3400 series body. 470 impedance means it should be PCC wire and might outperform the Virtuoso?
Regards,
Don,
There are no other options for a ready made stylus for the 3400 series, except P-mount styli which IMO are superior to 95 replacement needles, but none come with exotic cantilevers. I assume you're getting a version 1 Maestro? Your best bet might be a Soundsmith level 3. When Raul reviewed the Virtuoso he said that the Maestro was a little overdamped. It comes with boron/ML, in which case I don't think beryllium/LC will be an improvement. It will probably be worse in that respect.

Maybe Andy could do the transplant I don't know. The Prof transplanted from a 100 series to a round plug, not a 3400 series. I don't seem to have the agility in my hands that I used to, maybe that's why I broke a couple of those transplants, but there are some nice 100 series carts or even round plug carts that would probably be nice with that stylus. The cu is a lower than a 155LC, more like a modern version.

I recently posted that I've had 2 glowing reports of CA rebuilds with ruby cantilevers. SRA might be different and arm height adjustment is required. I would also suggest a slight raising of compliance if you're not using a massive arm. This can be done at time of rebuild.

Version 2 CA have stronger magnets for greater output. It looks to me as if the generators are unchanged. The rest of the specs are almost identical to V1. If you want to try stronger magnets LpGear sells orig 440ML styli for $150. Output was 1mV more than the MLa. This is the magnets, the rest of the specs are identical. Can't say I've tried this or necessarily recommend it, although those magnets could be used for a rebuild.
Regards,
Don,
In playing around with my Virtuoso I've found that the P-mount stylus seems to track better and sound better than the 95 styli. The cantilevers, although straight, seem thinner and lighter. This means less tip mass and VTF is 1.25 to 1.5g. Compliance isn't as high as the 155LC, more like a modern 150MLX or slightly less. You can try this for little money.
Just buy a 92E(CD) on fleabey for $25 and cut away the excess plastic. You'll have a .3 x .7 that I believe will outperform a 95SE (.3 x .7) on a med/light arm. You can buy aftermarket 3472 styli just like the 95 ones, including vivid line, shibata and an ML. Any AT stylus with that unusual plastic carrier will fit a 3400 series body.

I don't think the compliance screw has much to do with compliance. The screw is used to hold the cantilever in place and holding it tighter will make it stiffer? I think compliance is determined by the cantilever itself and the rubber donut. That would be a combination of cantilever weight, rigidity, and damping.

I just got an idea. Maybe I'll transplant the PCN550 to a 3400 series plug and try it on the Virtuoso. After all it's aluminum and maybe I won't break the damn thing.
Regards,
Don,
All the ATN20_ styli are beryllium.

I bought an AT12E body (4.2mV, 1200 ohm) back when Prof an I were trying to figure out Precept equivalent. I trimmed the plastic further on the PCN550 and fit it on the 12. It seems like a good match for the higher inductance/resistance body. I think that using it on the CA might be a waste of time, although I haven't tried it. The CA, like other high end ATs, needs an exotic stylus IMO. The PCN550 sounds more like an ATN440ML to me - more live sounding, but w/o the finesse of an exotic cantilever. I heard that as soon as I started using it on the 15S.
The old 1200 ohm AT12/13E seem sweeter than the newer 440/120 or even the 150 bodies which have much higher impedance. The AT12S(a) bodies were prob made for 4-ch and have 500 ohm impedance with 2.7mV. The 12S has a bonded shibata w/straight alum cantilever and I suspect sounds similar to these supposed PCN550.

If you cross a race horse with a donkey you'll get a mule, not a triple crown winner, although mules are useful animals.
Regards,
Aceman3,
Thanks for confirming Wualta's measurements. Apparently the PC110 is different. Specs are similar to the 12/13E.
Regards,
Don, Good point. I can't conceive of any other possibility for a two color plug. If anyone else has seen one maybe they'll speak up, but why would a plug be two colors?

Rip offs are rife in the audio biz, always have been. This starts with CA and their BS non user replaceable stylus. When asked if they use an OEM for the MM, they give evasive answers. Retailers can read these forums just like anyone else, and see an opportunity. They count on peoples ignorance and some will get away with what they can. The crazy part is, it could have gone to CA and been sent back like that. Where do they get these styli in the first place? CA is a BS overpriced company, always has been.

I bought a bogus beryllium/ML stylus for $200. Don, you were probably ripped off for almost $600, but who ripped you off?
Aceman,
I don't have a Precept body so I can't comment on that. On the 15, the PCN550 seemed forward and lively into the treble region, but not necessarily extra hot at the extreme high end. I changed the system around and maybe I pulled it off too soon, but it definitely didn't have the detail/finesse of beryllium. My comparison to the sound of a ATN440ML or possibly an ATN120E is really what I heard. Those two are actually technically superior to the PCN550. Both are nude diamonds on alum cantilevers. The 440 is tapered, the 120 is straight, the 550 is bonded like an ATN95E. The only way it could be TOTL is if that cantilever is titanium rather than alum. If that is the case, then maybe I need more hrs on it, but it will have to break in on the 12E.

Speaking of the ATN550, the photos on Asylum showed an industrial quality diamond. Mine looked like that until I thoroughly cleaned it, then it looked like a reg milky diamond, not great, but not bad. Maybe I got lucky. Someone said they couldn't tell if it was bonded. If you've ever seen a photo of a nude square shank tip, you'd know that the 550 isn't one of those. The shank is round and the bonding platform is obvious. I still think it's a PCN100E.
Regards,

Don,
As far as I can tell the hole for the cantilever in the front of the plug are all the same.
Regards,
I forgot to mention, a couple of months ago Raul answered the same question about AT20 cantilevers. As much as I can verify, that is correct, all beryllium.
Regards,
I just visited the VE library to see if there was a manual for someone. I noticed a Precept section in the library and the PC550 is described as a beryllium/nude square shank ML.

I'm no longer a member of VE, so I can't open the file, but assuming they have an actual copy of the manual, it's proof that the blue stylus we have is NOT a PCN550, and should not be referred to as such. Because the blue stylus looks authentic, I'm guessing it's a PCN100. Although this model isn't listed in the library I've seen it listed as entry level Precept with numerous stylus vendors and forums. Although we might not know exactly what this blue stylus is, we know what it's not.
Regards,
Don, **I expected to find the same one that is in the Virtuoso. The green one with the bottom (only part that you see),painted black.**

I bought my Virtuoso used, with a busted cantilever in the orig plug. That plug was all black plastic with the AT pressure fitting. This is the same pressure fitting AT uses in the green AT-95 plug. I think your Virtuoso came with a 95E stylus with the bottom painted black to look like a CA stylus. I don't think AT or CA go to the trouble to paint the bottom of a plug.

When Raul first reviewed the Virtuoso he was using a Soundsmith level 1 stylus. This was the combination that received the accolades. It is a tapered cantilever with a nude elliptical. The stock stylus is similar to a AT95SE replacement stylus - .3 x .7 bonded on a straight cantilever. This illustrates what I've been saying all along. The stylus/cantilever is just as important as the generator.

Because Raul found the stock Maestro a little overdamped (no doubt due to excess wood), and his Virtuoso wound up with boron/micro, I suspect the optimal stylus for the Maestro is a Soundsmith level 3, and for the Virtuoso, a stock Maestro stylus - boron/micro. It might be interesting to transplant a ATN440MLa and try that on the Maestro. If you'd like increased output use an orig 440ML, although the output might be boosted a little too much. The V2 Maestro has .6mV greater output. The 440 had 1.0mV more output than the MLa.

If I were you, I'd transplant the blue PCwhatever and try that on the Maestro. I bet it would sound like a 103R in a wood body, LOL.
Regards,
Don, **Does this mean Musical Surroundings are doing their own Clearaudio rebuilts, using AT 95e housings and using the pressure fit compliance plug?**

Rebuilds? I don't think so. It seems to me they took a 95E stylus, cut off the excess plastic, and painted the bottom black. This is the same thing we've been doing with 95 replacement styli, except painting the bottom. In their defense, it's not much different than the orig Virtuoso stylus which I thought was a .3 x .7. The 95 is a .4 x .7.
Regards,
Lew,
I think you have to look at inductance relative to output and the amount of gain required to amplify it. It's a moot point with CA, they really didn't design the MM, only the parameters of an AT design, and a wood jacket or top. I have no doubt that the entire cart, metal body and stylus is made by AT. Why would CA bother manufacturing AT coils when AT can do it more efficiently and probably much more cheaply?

In order to lower inductance you need fewer turns of wire in the coils. I don't know what is possible with the AT V magnet design. High output has its good points - greater dynamics and S/N (major criticism of records). Inductance remains unchanged. Some owners of CA V2 MM say they're the best thing since sliced bread.
Regards,
Don,
My concern about using a 440ML isn't about saturating the coils, it's about voicing. Inductance of the 440 is 490mH, as opposed to 420mH for CA. I think the sound of the TK5Ea might be a better match for that stylus, but I'm not sure.

The vivid line is a straight alum cantilever with a bonded tip, just like the other 95 replacements. The vivid line is like a line contact, not a micro. If the vivid line was a micro it would be more expensive than the shibata. Both 440 styli are tapered with nude square shank ML. Seems like a bargain compared to the price of 95 replacement styli.

The increase of output is .6mV on the Maestro. The Virtuoso is .4mV. When AT discontinued the 440ML they said that one unnamed part was unavailable and they would keep the cart as close as possible to the orig. Because everything else except output is identical we have to assume it's the magnets. Whatever they are, AT can not supply them. Once again, my concern is voicing. My orig 440 was bright and I loaded it at 22 to 32K. Maybe the ultimate would be an ATN150MLX with 440ML magnets. It may be a little pricey, but it's cheaper than a CA re-tip.
Regards,
Don, I thought you knew. All the 3400 series (includes 95E) made by AT are pressure fit. That's another reason I figure even the CA stylus is made by AT. Only the aftermarket ones have the screw. I bought a shibata and HE from TTNeedles and they both have the screw.

Is that the red Sony I saw on their site? I thought it might be aftermarket. I guess AT made it for Sony. LpGear has a couple of inexpensive ones that say LpGear replacement. ATN3472W (26.95), and ATN95W are 78 rpm. Under LpGear brand, ATN95CE (30). I'm not positive they have the screw, but apparently they're replacement styli. I happen to have a empty plug you can have. Send me a PM with your address and I'll mail it to you.
Regards,
Don,
Got your PM. I'll try to take care of that in the morning.

**I have the SS level 1 currently in the Maestro. The LPGear VL AT95 in the Black Virtuoso, and the Jico Shibata AT95 in the Red Virtuoso. Funny thing is that each of them shine at some part of the musical presentation, but none of the shine at them all. I'm hoping that the 440MLa will bring each of their better attributes into one. Then perhaps the 440ML will kick up the dynamics a little.**

Unfortunately, I don't think you'll find perfection with either 440, but this is guesswork on my part based on substituting a 152ML on my orig 440. The CA are diff carts and it's fun playing with these toys. I already told you what I think would be the best. The prospect of using the 440ML OCC magnets is interesting. I wonder if you'll buy 3.
Regards,
Nandric,
My agreement was about the PC220 in particular, based on Raul's previous comment.
I don't own the cart. As far as AT stylus substitutions in general, IMO they afford an opportunity to dramatically increase performance. Look at the Virtuoso, a cart made by AT, the Soundsmith level 1 boosts performance. I'm sure you've read numerous cases of similar AT stylus substitutions.
Regards,
Don,
That's how a bonded platform looks when viewed from the top, like the head of a nail. Depending on your angle and where the light is coming from, it can almost look like a separate platform on top. In the photos on Asylum it looks like that. It's a shadow.

Look at the business end again from different angles. Don't you see a ring around the bottom of the round diamond shank on the underside of the cantilever? It's the same silver color as the cantilever. That's the platform. Glue doesn't look like that.

We really need better photos. It's surprising that none of us has a decent USB set-up. The tip could in fact be a bonded ML on a straight cantilever. AT made one of these, the 3472ML P-mount, made with dark green plastic. I just looked at the PC again. Compared to a stock 95E (with the fitting so I know it's stock), they look the same except the PC has something black covering the part that looks like the head of a nail. The bonding under the tip looks much the same.

I've never seen a bonded ML, but the others look much smaller than this. Back to square 2. We know it's not beryllium or a TOTL PCN550ML. It's a fake, a blue PCNwhatever. Sounds good on my 12E.
Regards,
Don,
Seems that comrade NiKola didn't think too highly of it.

AT once made a cart, the AT-150 Ti. It had a titanium coated beryllium/ML. 4mV, 550 ohm. Never saw one or the stylus. The gold coating on AT exotic cantilevers is super thin, not like this. ???

Maybe I'll put some more hrs on mine. Sounds good on the 12E body. Still think I could have done better for $200, LOL.
Regards,
Don,
Eff mass is a touchy subject around here. How can you run your arm without a counterweight, is it an aux weight?
What is the eff mass of the 2.2?
Normally, reducing the weight of the counterweight and moving it back to balance the arm, actually increases the eff mass. Eff mass is a diff expression of moment of inertia and length or distance figures in.

Many higher cu carts sound sluggish (to me), on a heavy arm. BTW, that stylus in NOT a PCN550ML. Why don't you call it PC-Blue.
Regards,
Comrade Donsky,
You already know the answer. Remove the loose collar and reinstall it for a heavy cart. This would have the potential to degrade the sound and no potential to improve it. What if the collar slipped forward or backward? It would change your VTF, not to mention vibration considerations. You could tighten the collar and keep it there to move your counterweight closer to the pivot, but leaving it loose is a bad idea IMO.

I'm curious about the P77. Jico makes an SAS for it? What's up with that cart? Some people say it's silly good.
Regards,
Don,
I don't think there's a part number for a plug. If there were, you'd wind up with a pressure fitted one. A plug is an integral part of the plastic holder. Probably, the only 3400 series plastic stylus holder made by AT has a pressure fitted retainer. I believe the AT-95SE (@ Gear) is the least expensive aftermarket one with the screw. I don't know this as fact, but it's a .3 x .7 - probably Jico.

I'm a little surprised you haven't received the plug I mailed last Friday. It's in a video mailer. Maybe tomorrow.
Regards,
Nikola,
That's interesting. I have an AT12E which has a different motor than your 12S. The 12E is the same motor as a 13E(a), while the 12S(a) was designed for 4-ch and has extended response and seemingly top specs - 500 ohms/2.7mV.
The 13Ea is the cart that the Prof transplanted a ATN155LC into and got great results. This motor has 1200 ohms/4.2mV.

I suspect your 12S body would respond very well to a beryllium cantilevered stylus, although I don't know if it would outperform the 20SS. If you have a 15/20SS stylus, or any 20 stylus, no transplant required. You might have to trim some plastic off the stylus holder. I normally use a wire cutter for this. Because the plugs are round I normally leave some plastic on the sides for stability.

Welcome to the dark side. May your redirection of the force be productive.
Regards,
Griff, Nice write up.
**Would the increase in output change the voicing.**

Not entirely known. The big improvement should be in dynamics. It seems to be better according to some CA V2 users. Some say much better. Presumably the voltage increase would be almost twice that of V2. That could change the voicing, but might be better yet.
Gear has the 440ML for $150.
Regards,
Hi Dentdog,
I'm not familiar with all the equipment you mentioned, but I wonder about the restored Thorens 125. I've seen restored tables going for relatively big money and wonder if it's worth it. You didn't mention price and it might depend on what else is available, but I suspect you might be able to do better.
Regards,
Griff,
The ATN152MLP to a 440 body isn't a transplant, it's a straight up replacement. I was coming from the orig 440ML stylus so I guess a loss in dynamics is to be expected. It's extremely hard to figure out in advance what the final results will be, because there are too many variables specific to individual generators.

In the case of the 440ML the voicing and resolution changed dramatically for the better with the 152. I used to load the 440 at 32K and switched to 47K with the new stylus. It had detail and refinement that completely eluded the cart with the orig stylus. Sometimes I'm reluctant to draw conclusions from one sample because of mfg variables, but in this case the only difference was the cantilever, aluminum vs beryllium.

The CA has a very different set of specs and I was a little surprised with the extent of your results, but according to your posts you've never heard it before with a micro tip or an exotic cantilever, so you have no basis for comparison. Either do I, not with a CA.
The Vivid Line is from a different mfg. Apparently the others are from Jico. Difference in output could be due, at least in part, to voicing. Shibata sounds a little soft, sweet, and might do something different with high freq phase - not sure.

If you believe the results of posters who like the V2 CA, then you can conclude it's better with an additional .5mV (approx.) output. There is the risk that 1mV would be too much and exaggerate some hidden anomaly. That's the chance you take when you redirect the force, Darth Griff. The question is, what would be better the additional output or an exotic cantilever/micro?
My vote would be for a SS level 3, but it's a guess and might require changing your arm height. On the other hand, maybe the additional output would be a revelation and blow away Raul's Denon CD player, LOL. If you get the 440ML stylus you can try a magnet transplant. ?
BTW, LpGear is now sold out of the stylus.
Regards,
The Emperor
I think some of the confusion here is the result of contradictory terminology. The phono cart has a (+) and (-) side, I.e. (+) and (-) sides of the waveform, and that's why it's inherently balanced. The - side is often referred to and sometimes used as the ground, but not in a balanced input. The ground connection in the preamp DIN plug should be connected to the tonearm ground, not the - side of the cart. If the cart has a grounding strap, it should be defeated for balanced connection.

There is a popular way to hook up single ended cables sometimes called "balanced". This is 2 conductors and shield. 1 conductor is + and the other is -. The shield is connected to - (ground) on the source end and floats (not connected) on the receiving end. This would only be appropriate for balanced if the source end was connected to the arm ground ONLY and receiving end connected to ground.

The 5-pin tonearm DIN plug has the connections in a U configuration. The one centrally located at the bottom of the U is the ground.

What's the big deal about balanced phono connections, 6dB of common mode noise rejection? You guys running 30' tonearm cables? Unless the parts in both sides of the preamp are perfectly matched, and not almost perfectly, performance is worse. How many shades of black?
Regards,
Nikola,
It was inaccurately reported and I repeated it, that the cantilever on the AT-20SL and SLa is beryllium. It is described as tapered aluminum at LpGear where they have the orig replacement needle.
Regards,
Nikola, I figured that the orig cantilever is aluminum (tapered?) or LpGear would say so and charge more for beryllium. Since the price is already $200, who knows?
The 20SS stylus is available at Stereoneedles for the same money.

I don't run balanced phono but I believe the tonearm ground should be hooked to the ground pin (#1) on the DIN plug on each channel.
Regards,
Nandric,
You could split the ground wire after the tonearm connector.
Regards,
Lew, Re: Balanced.
The duplication of parts in each channel of the preamp serves to amplify the positive and negative sides of the same waveform. Not talking about common mode rejection, what about those different sides of the same signal?

IMO when it comes to additional parts, degradations, and colorations, less is more. There's no such thing as a good part. Some suck less than others.
Regards,
Nandric,
Check with the manufacturer for correct configuration. Apparently the ground can be strapped internally to the tonearm ground post. The standard record player pinout is
L = #3, R = #5, and #2 (center) is usually ground.
But the manufacturer can wire it however they want and it seems to vary.

http://pinouts.ru/Home/DinAudio_pinout.shtml

http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/DIN_Audio

Regards,
Lew,
That's interesting about Kelly's phono. I wonder how many others have that imbalance compensation circuit, zero, maybe one or two? How about yours?

You read into my argument? You missed the point. It's about circuit topology and uneven exposure to heat, especially with tubes. Things like resistors and capacitors change value with temp.
Admittedly, much of my objection is theoretical, but why make things overly complicated? Many of the tube units have SUTs and I don't like them either.

Now I think tubes are obsolete? You didn't finish reading my post. I have a tube amp (among others). I don't think tubes are a particularly good idea on phono, so sue me.
Maybe you forgot, I'm the guy who had direct drive OTL electrostat tube amps - big high voltage cap tubes. The amps put out 50KV with banks of storage caps, another Dan Fanny creation.
Your running Soundlab? Bet it sounds great.
Regards,
Lew, I think you should open it and determine if it is, in fact an original. This should have no affect on
return-ability, as long as it's not damaged. Raul tried his and can now return it if he desires.

If it is a beryllium/ML, it is worth more than $200 IMO. Only a few ATs had such a stylus and they are mostly unavailable and fit 100 series. I think the 550ML was the only round plug beryllium ever made. If you have a PC220 or 440 body results might be better than good.
Regards,
Edit:
That should read, I think the 550ML was the only round plug beryllium/ML ever made.
Lew,
Some magnification would help. All you really need to tell if it's alum or beryl - bonded or nude, is handheld 30 to 60X.

Look at the end of the cantilever and see if it's folded over like the pics on Asylum - that's alum. Bonded will have a little platform under the round shank needle. That platform will go through the cantilever and look like a nail head on the other side. Mine is covered over with some black stuff. A square shank nudie is glued and doesn't go through a beryl cantilever. Most of the ML are really small, but that should be enough magnification to tell if it's bonded or not. If you have enough magnification to see a nude sq shank, it's beautiful like a pin-up girl.

Those photos on Asylum were less than 100X. You can use a low power biological scope, but you have to block the hole under the slide, light it from above, and have enough height with the stage to accommodate the stylus.
Regards,
Hi Nikola,
You're a lawyer? Obviously not a civil lawyer, LOL. Maybe things are different in Europe, especially eastern Europe, but this is the USA.
All one has to do is contact their credit card company and cancel the charge. Opened box or not, is irrelevant.
I doubt if the seller will dispute the claim. This is a fraudulent or misidentified item. They already acknowledged as much, and wouldn't have a leg (or cantilever) to stand on, so to speak.

Beryllium is only toxic when being manufactured. If you breath in the dust or ingest small particles it's toxic. Otherwise it's safe. They still make tweeter diaphragms out of beryllium.
When you do very exacting close work or party too much it's normal to start seeing double, get headaches and nausea, and you skin turns various shades of red and green. Thus it is called the Xmasexcess syndrome. Take a day off and it goes away. When I broke the 152MLP the cantilever went flying and landed in my forearm which bled a little. Nothing happened - no symptoms of anything. I've recently started st st stuttering and images appear upside down. I wonder if they could be related?
Regards,

Griff,
AFAIK, AT only made a couple exotic tube cantilevers. What models?
Compare them to a tapered alum w/nude stylus like your 440MLa.
Regards,