Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
rauliruegas

Showing 50 responses by fleib

Hi David,
This is interesting. One tidbit I didn't see in the Audio Circle post, was this: **On another topic - compating my Revox Linatrack arm to the JVC QL-Y5F... the high frequency response is pretty much the same, resonance frequency range (5Hz to 25Hz) reflects the expected mass and damping differences.**

Was 25Hz with the Shure? Do you notice any anomalies in the bass/lower midrange with it or other med cu carts with the Revox arm? Many carts have rising response in that region. The low mass arm might minimize it and the high mass arm maximize. I'd guess the rise would be greater with the M97. I'd also guess that the rise is greater w/aluminum cantilever. You need a med mass arm on your next acquisition.
Regards,
Hi Nandric,
If you look at the underside of the CA, you'll see the cantilever exit the body from a rectangular piece of black plastic. That plastic is actually part of an AT stylus assembly. If you pry it up you'll see what we call the plug - this plastic piece holds the cantilever, magnets, etc. The rest of a usual AT plastic stylus, we call the wings. The wings can be cut off any plastic AT stylus and and you can insert it in the respective body to make it like a CA assembly (sans wings). However, not all plugs are the same and you are limited in what you can substitute.

The plug style for the CA carts is the same as an AT-95, K9, AT-3400 series and all the P-mounts with the unusual wings that are tall and angular like the AT-92ECD. The only upscale styli in this group is a couple of P mounts and they might be bonded. But, if you get extra plugs from a cheap replacement stylus, you could use them for extra styli. I just put a 92E stylus (P mount) on my Virtuoso and I'm going to try it on a low mass arm. This is a bonded .3 x .7 elliptical/aluminum.

You can use any of the Jico styli made for the AT-95, just cut off the wings. These would include an LC (Vivid Line) and a shibata. They are high quality, but bonded on a straight alum cantilever.
Regards,
Hi Nandric, **So I may surpass the master by cutting of some plastic parts of the donors?**
That is yet to be determined. Raul ordered a nude .3 x .7 elliptical on a tapered aluminum cantilever. AFAIK, there is no nude tip available for any of the appropriate replacements. Most also have straight aluminum cantilevers. I think tapered would have less tip mass and straight might be more rigid. This is guess-work on my part as tapered is usually considered better. If Raul owns the AT-95SA that he wrote about, that stylus could be substituted for his elliptical. I don't believe removing the plastic is necessary. There would be an empty space in the front, but it should work. The comparison would be for a bonded shibata on a straight cantilever vs the SSmith nude/tapered elliptical. From my experience with these, the nude elliptical is more detailed and the bonded shibata is sweeter, or could be considered more "musical".
BTW, if you're cutting off plastic wings it might be easier with a small wire cutter. You have to be careful not to get near the magnets or cantilever.

Raul, thanks for that link to the post about the SSmith ruby/LC. I'm not surprised. I've also heard of others liking it or the ruby/micro option. Yes, it changes the character of the sound and that can be a matter of taste. As I posted before, the aluminum colorations are often preferred. Usually with more mid-bass and midrange dynamics as opposed to more detailed and less forgiving sound, people often prefer aluminum. I don't think this is anything but one persons experience, but might be indicative of what to expect. I'd like to remind you that the Maestro has the same generator and a boron/micro stylus. You said it seemed overdamped? I'm not trying to make a case for a ruby cantilever, I'm really trying to figure this out myself, before I spend more money. I've already broken about $600 worth of styli experimenting with transplanting. Boron and beryllium cantilevers don't take well to bending. No doubt the SSmith alum or transplanting a nude stylus w/aluminum to a Jico plug, is the most cost effective option and might be the best.
Regards,
Hi Nandric, Inexpensive styli are bonded. A smaller diamond is mounted on a metal platform that is attached to the cantilever. Better styli are nude mounted directly to the cantilever. This would include a pressure fitted one on an aluminum cantilever or one that is glued to an exotic cantilever. Of course, this does not take into consideration diamond quality or polish.

I'm not sure what $600 refers to. Perhaps the money I spent breaking boron and beryllium and other styli trying to transplant them? A transplant is different from a substitution where you're just removing excess plastic. In a transplant you're removing the stylus from a plug and putting it in another. Unlike a CA, most AT plugs have a screw that holds the cantilever. This is called the compliance screw. The CA just has a fitting, like an AT-95. A Jico replacement stylus for an AT-95 will have a screw and the plug fits the CA body properly.

All this leads me to believe that AT is the OEM for the entire cart with the possible exception of the top. It would cost CA much more to try to produce this themselves. I think they were clever enough to order a cart with specs reminiscent of the AT-15/20. Those vintage carts, and possible a few similar, seem to be the best AT generators. Newer carts like the 150MLX have higher output. With that increased output comes high inductance/impedance. I also feel that an exotic stylus will outperform the alum/elliptical on the Virtuoso. I just don't know what that is yet. Maybe it's a beryllium/shibata like a 20SS, but I suspect it's a boron/micro. Maybe VDH can supply it.
Regards,
Hi Nandric,
I think you made a wise choice. It will be interesting to read what you think of it.
Regards,
Hi Delamostre1,
Glad you're getting good results with the Sonus. Maybe you have the JVC by now? I think you'll enjoy the performance. Concerning the table; the performance can be improved by doing some work on the hollow base. It's prone to feedback and microphonics. Also the bottom panel needs to be damped.
Many people fill the insides with modeling clay (non hardening). I suggest bracing also. The arm is far superior to the stock 1200 arm. You can get lots of information at the turntable forum at Audio Circle. That's the source of these mods. I suggest opening a thread and asking for suggestions. The 55F is very similar to the top 66F. It is claimed that modified ones will outperform many new $2K to 3K tables. Congratulations.
Regards,
Hi Raul,
**Now, each one of us need to have some parameters/factors/characteristics that could tell us if one cartridge is better or not to other one. I have very clear those parameters to " measure " cartridge quality performance, that's why I know for sure that this LOMC cartridge ( I'm evaluating other great ones. ) outperforms my Virtuoso Wood.**

Yes, it outperforms according to your parameters, on your stereo, using your ears and whatever objective measurements. The fault of your argument as "best" is assuming that your results are somehow universally definitive. You don't allow for system differences or the possibility of superior resolution in other systems. Why should anyone else assume that your phono stage(s) or amp/speakers for that matter, define the best? Why should you assume that your priorities are the same as others?

I'm not saying you're unable to recognise very good carts. I'm saying that someone can disagree about this "best" business and be right, especially as far as they are concerned. Now that you're venturing into more conventional criteria (LOMC) for declaring the best, it better be good.
Regards,
Hi Raul, Have you moved to South America? cause you're now the Rationalist King of that continent.

I don't want to debate the philosophical implications of your statements or methodology. This is your thread, your parade as it were. You have made quite an impact on the perceptions of the record playing community. I'd call it a contribution. I'm curious to read what coil enticed you to stray from the MM/MI realm, apparently all the way to South America.

My motivation is not to defend the Virtuoso or any particular cart, it's more of a credibility caution. I'm glad you're not steadfast in your previous MM/MI preference. Do tell.
Regards,
Hi Pryso,
I believe records spin clockwise south of the equator. However, the liquidity of the presentation is reversed. This can be especially disconcerting when a horn player neglects to empty his spit valve. The sound of the horn will retain the channel location. The crackling sound of the spit will be reversed in channel and sound like a separate occurrence.
Regards,
Hi Nandric, Griffithds,
To be honest I'm not sure exactly how much money the broken stylus bill comes to. I try not to think about it. This is the culmination of my stylus/cantilever investigation. I chose the AT line for obvious reasons. This started out seeing how simple stylus substitution effects the sound. There was no breakage whatsoever until I started doing transplants. That is, removing the stylus from the plug and inserting it in another. The plug is the small rectangle that holds the cantilever, like on the bottom of a CA. I found out the hard way that the angle of the cantilever differs from one plug to another, depending on the series. At the very least, a slight bending is required. Boron and beryllium don't take well to bending. They snap. I also had a couple of accidents learning about this, that I normally wouldn't have had. Sa la vie.

Actually, I may have counted a 15SS stylus that I removed from the plug, and neglected to break. I sent it to Dlaloum for his investigations. I have another and a 20SS, so he could put it to good use. I have a theory that we really don't own anything in our short lives. Our stuff really owns us. Too bad they don't use beryllium any more. It's the most brittle, but it's the best. Toxic schmoxic, they still make tweeter diaphragms out of it.
Regards,
Hi Virtuoso Nandric, **Dear Fleib, this is what our forum is about. Profit from
somebody els experience. So to put it as simple as possible: learn from Raul what to do and from Fleib what not to do (grin).
Virtuoso Nandric**

LOL, There are quite a few things I could say in response to that. Not the least of which is there are aluminum cantilevered styli that will transplant directly into a 95/Virtuoso plug that might be exactly what you are looking for. These would include nude square shank grain oriented elliptical, line contact and even micro ridge. These come in a variety of compliance, so you can customise your cart. The ATN7V, .2 x .7 stylus is a perfect example. Its cu is nearly identical (7 vs 6.5) to the CA.

I guess most Germans don't bother to read English speaking forums. I think here it's common knowledge now, that AT is the OEM for the CA MM carts. Not only that, all the models share the same generator. Indeed, you could buy a Sigma or Beta with a broken cantilever and have the same level of performance you do now. The fact that CA chose to designate these as non user replaceable is because they were trying to hide their AT origin and gouge the user on re-tipping.

I'm quite sure that performance will be superior (IMO) with the right cantilever and micro stylus, just as some prefer the Maestro to the Virtuoso. I'm not buying a Maestro to find out and I'm not sending it out to be re-tipped at this time. CA was smart enough to order a superior generator from AT. It's similar to an excellent cart of the past like a 20SS, but in a cheap 3400 series body with a fancy wood top. We can thank CA for getting AT to manufacture this generator. Too bad for us it had to be CA.
Regards,
Hi Griffithds,
Not exactly. VTA (not SRA) will vary between 20 and 23 degrees depending on model. That is the angle of the cantilever with respect to the record surface and a parallel cartridge. What really differs is the bottom of the body and the angle of the plug. Also, different series plugs will have the cantilever exit hole at different angles to accommodate different body/plug styles. That's the fly in the ointment for transplants. If you cut away the plastic wings from an AT 15/20 series, modern 120 series and 3400 series (95/CA/K9) styli, and lay them flat on the edge of a table, you'll see that the angles are all different. They're virtually the same when in their respective cart body.
Regards,
Hi Griffithds,
It's my understanding that Nandric has a nude line contact stylus on a tapered aluminum cantilever. Raul has a nude .3 x .7 elliptical on a similar cantilever.

The AT-95 does NOT have the same generator as a CA. It is very nice for a budget cart. I don't think you could do better for $50 or so on a med/high mass arm. The major difference I believe is the 95 not having OCC wire.

All the CA have the same generator. I seriously doubt if there are any internal body differences between the different models. The difference is in the styli. They go from cheap to cheaper. This includes the Virtuoso. It is equipped with stylus assembly fit for a budget cart. I now think that AT manufactures the entire cart including the stylus. CA probably makes the tops. The CA plug lacks the compliance screw, just like the 95. The Jico 95 replacement styli have the screw. If you want a nude stylus/tapered cantilever, go to Alex or S Smith, or transplant a modern (120 series). The 7V is very good and requires little bending, but a steady hand and perfect alignment. Re-tippers have tools like micro-comparators that make it much easier.
Regards,
Hi Raul,
You use the term distortion loosely. Because it has the connotation of a dirty word, maybe you should be more specific. Sometimes it might be voicing you're referring to, or deviation from specific response that compliments your system and expectations. After all, nothing is perfect and your expectations are based on results with other imperfect carts.

This is not to say that there are no qualitative differences. Obviously there are. All I'm saying is be specific. Yes, in a general sense a romanticized sound is colored, but is it necessarily distorted? The term distortion is usually used in the context of harmonics. Less than perfect frequency response can impart a sense of harmonic distortion or inaccuracy. Is there a thin line between colored and distorted? We all go back to what compliments out systems and taste. I think that possibly the most accurate carts tend to sound too dry for most of us. I'm not entirely sure about that. Comparing record playback to master tape sound requires some "color" to recreate that sound IMO. When a cart is voiced, isn't that akin to choosing color?

If the ultra high frequency "howling" caused by a DL-S1 or DL-304 inductance/resistance is not suppressed by capacitors in a preamp, that causes harmonic distortion. Put either of those carts through a "lesser" preamp or one with capacitors to suppress, and you can hear the sound without that distortion. I think that is the difference between distortion and voicing or color. To label your objections as distortion might be accurate to some degree if you measure it. To apply that measurement to other parameters, is inaccurate.
Regards,
I did a little search to find out something about the Acutex carts. Apparently they are induced magnet types and had a proprietary configuration they called the "Tri-Induced Magnet System". They claimed the best separation in the business. Reading the posts here apparently it's true. I wonder if this spectacular separation comes at the expense of some central image information, leaving a hole in the middle or suck-outs.
Regards,
Greetings Timeltel, I haven't heard one of these cartridges. My speculation about a hole in the middle or dropouts was in response to comments here. The tri-magnet thing is interesting, and probably responsible for superior separation. I was reading other speculation that it might be similar to Azden US patent on an induced magnet (YM-308II) with both rod and disk shaped armatures, called tri-pole armature. I didn't find any other info on the Acutex tri-magnet. In my search I found Raul's excellent review of the 315 III which states that Azden is the OEM.

AFAIK all shibatas have a different cut on the rear. Is this different from others with an additional facet?
Regards,
Hi Nandric, A 980 and a 981 are the same cartridge. A 981 is a 980 with a factory matched stylus.

Anyone can see the MM specs for themselves at the CA web site. They all have 660 ohms impedance and 420mH inductance. If you check other AT you'll see variations depending on output, coil windings etc.
www.clearaudio.de/_en/Tonabnehmer.php

Lew, The LpGear stylus is a bonded shibata made by Jico. It's pretty good. I also have a Pickering D3001, it's a .2 x .7 nude elliptical.

Raul, Perhaps you would change your mind about preferring the HO version, now that you've upgraded your high gain stage.
Regards,
Hi Nandric, Dlaloum, I just re-checked the specs at CA web site. They are all identical except for the Classic. They have that listed as 3.3mV out, rather than 3.6mV. I think it's a typo because all the other specs are the same. I doubt if they would put weaker magnets in the Classic. I can't guarantee there are no internal differences other than the generators, but why would there be? It's obvious (to me) that AT makes these for CA, probably in bulk, in a 3400 series body, with a 3400 series stylus and plug. Also, they all have the same length cantilever and cu.

CA probably tests these and sorts them out according to tolerance. My Virtuoso has 1 ohm difference of DC resistance between channels. Lower priced models might have worse tolerances. I guess that would be the biggest difference. It could be much more than the difference between an AT-15 and 20.

We're not talking about 3 different cartridges with different stylus/cantilevers, and cu. Because the stylus is replaceable, like any AT, a Maestro stylus could be tried on another CA model.
Regards,
Maybe we should talk about friction rather than stylus drag. A cart on a linear arm has no stylus drag, but there is still friction. Stylus drag is caused by the difference in offset angle of the cart compared to a line from tip to pivot.

That quote from Fremer was about conventional vs strain gauge carts? All carts are sensitive to velocity regardless of design. The quote was out of context and probably about the moving mass. In a MC design, because coil vibrations and stability are of primary concern, those parameters become more important. They are usually better served by more mass and moderate compliance.
Regards,
Hi Henry, I think it's just a definition of terms that we're talking about here. I'm not sure how inclusive the term 'stylus drag' is. Maybe it would include automodulation, or the motions of the stylus as described above. I'm not positive about this or know if there is common agreement. You might be right. I took a quick look at your system - very nice indeed.
Regards,
Hello Nandric, It's much the same with the CA carts. Because there is no grip color to designate status, there's the little gold faceplate. Mine has a V, so I know just how special it is. When the faceplate fell off, I glued it back on right away. Alas, the Maestro has a (you guessed it) black faceplate, so it's obviously the top one.

It's interesting that CA doesn't say anything about the stylus. On Musical Surrounding's web site (US importer) some of the specs differ from CA. They say that they all have a tip r/R = 5/80um. I think CA used to specify different tips. I know they used to have a fancy name for the Maestro tip, but now they only say boron cantilever.

The problem with replacing the stylus is finding one worthy enough. I think the Jico AT-95 shibata or vivid line are pretty good. Any aluminum cantilevered modern one could be transplanted, or 3400 series P-mount styli can be substituted. Right now I'm experimenting with a tip from a 92E. This seems to be about the same quality as the orig? only with high cu. There are also other P-mounts, some better with line contact or even micro styli. I have it on a low mass arm, a modified Sonus Formula 4. It sounds pretty good. I have a 140LC, another high cu stylus that I didn't really like on another cart. Maybe I'll try transplanting that. The 7V sounds pretty good on there. That's another transplant though. The problem is the AT 3400 series is generally budget carts. I still think a boron or other exotic cantilever w/micro would be the ultimate. BTW, there probably are tolerance differences between models.
Regards,
Hi Griffithds, ++++Still keeping the cantilever parallel with the longitudinal track lines, position the stylus tip so that it lines up the the points marke "1" or "2". Position "1" provides for the null points to be at the standard "Seagrave/Baerwald" positions, while "2" is an alternative setting (proposed by Loefgren) which is said to provide improved over-all distortion at the expense of slightly increased peak distortion at the beginning and end of the record. The precision of this alignment system allows the end user to experiment with confidence and accuracy.++++

Position #1 is standard Baerwald. Some prefer to call it Loefgren A because he discovered it. Baerwald popularized it. Position #2 is Loefgren B also known as simply Loefgren. It has the lowest total distortion. Baerwald has the most even performance from beginning to end. Loefgren B requires the cartridge to be a little more forward in the headshell. Stevenson moves the inner null to the lead-out groove and optimises tracking there to reduce inner groove distortion. It requires the cartridge to be a little closer to the pivot.
Regards,
Hi Griffithds, Correct. If you look at the inner null point, the further out from the spindle, the longer your overhang. Alignment changes the overhang (eff length) and offset angle. The greatest alignment error is in the center of the record. Loefgren B minimizes this by having the nulls closer to the center. Loefgren A (Baerwald) is the most popular though. Most "standard" protractors like Dennesen, DB Systems, Geodisc, etc use it.
Regards,
Hi Aceman, I'm fascinated with your description of Coltrane's tone. I wouldn't have thought of Johnny Hodges. Perhaps the shibata is giving more harmonic information which takes some of the bite out of his tone?

I only saw him live, once. It was in the fall of '66 and he was quite sick. Most of the show was a secession of sax players (with bite) and the trio. Trane came out at the end and his tone was soft and religious. It was a revelation to hear him make sense out of chaos. I was young and didn't appreciate avant garde. I don't think Trane ever had a biting tone, but maybe that's not what you meant.
Regards,
Frogman, I guess you're right. He certainly didn't sound like Coleman Hawkins or Lester. Listening to mostly post Trane playing, it now seems more like the norm.
Regards,
Hi Aceman, Yes, exactly. 50 years later it doesn't seem like it was tone that was so revolutionary, more like what he was playing, how he put notes together. I've read that Charlie Parker sacrificed tone for speed. That seems almost inconsequential in light of his accomplishments.

Maybe if your Better Half doesn't relate to some of the more outside stuff, you could try a different progression of LPs. I can always listen to "Traneing In" or "Soultrane". From "My Favorite Things" you could maybe sneak in "Chim Chim Cheree". That one always knocks me out. Inside-out as it were.
Regards,
Dear Signet aficionados, I must admit that I get the models/series mixed up. The earlier ones, TK-5, 7, took an AT-15/20 stylus and the later ones took a 120/440 series?

IMO the ML tip needs a boron or better yet, beryllium cantilever for control and voicing. A 152 or 155ML stylus on a 440 seems to obviate the need to load it down. These styli are becoming increasingly rare, as are the LC versions. Perhaps an ATN150MLX would be good on a later series?
Regards,
Hi Nandric, The Acutex isn't a challenge for me. I don't own one. However, it might be useful for you to identify the difference (if any) in the generators. It would make it easier to sort out which stylus/cantilever voicing works best with which motor. To measure DC resistance you need a digital meter and simply measure between the + and - on each ch. You'll need a capacitance/inductance meter to measure inductance. Most multi meters don't have that capability. Just measuring resistance Might tell you most of what you're looking for. Remember, use a digital meter and get the reading and remove the probes. Don't leave it on there while you contemplate the results.
Regards,
Lew, I totally agree about Dexter Gordon. He had the most seductive, lush sound; it's simply amazing. One of my faves is an old Blue Note, One Flight Up.

You guys in Europe probably have access to Steeplechase LPs. We got many of them on Inner City, which were often poorly pressed. In the mid/late '80s some Steeplechase were imported. There's some wonderful music there including Kenny Drew and Tete Montoilu (piano), two of the all time greats. Enja label also has some killers. Around that time I was the record buyer for a high end stereo shop. I remember setting up an account with Lyrita in Scotland. I ordered the entire catalogue and bought them out on spicific titles. I'm surprised other stores didn't do things like that. It drew customers from hundreds of miles, literally.
IMO even the early digital recordings from these jazz labels, were better, more listenable.
Regards,
Hi Raul, **Of course this is absolutely subjective and of course that depends of the recording selections where things can goes the other way around.**

Many of us music lovers really don't understand the contributions of an individual musician. Our likes and dislikes might be based on a limited sampling of their work. Dizzy's contribution to the invention of be bop is well known. He also helped Miles learn to play and keep up with Parker. Miles was just a kid when he went to NY. It was Dizzy who got him the gig with Bird. Miles went on to introduce modal style of playing and had the most prominent jazz band for decades. Up and coming musicians got a name for themselves by playing in Miles band or Art Blakey's. Look at the list of trumpet players who were with Blakey. It includes everyone from Clifford Brown to Wynton Marsalis. For a more modern selection from Dizzy, I suggest "New Faces".

Anyone looking for an Astrion?
www.ebay.com/itm/VERY-RARE-UNBELIEVABLY-BEAUTIFUL-ADC-ASTRION-CARTRIDGE-AND-STYLUS-LOW-USE-/320807347189?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4ab19ba3f5
Regards,
Hi Nandric, I haven't been paying close attention to the Acutex posts, but if the styli on your 412 and 420 are interchangeable, they probably share the same generator. If you can swap styli and if the output seems the same with either stylus, I think it's a pretty safe bet that they have the same body. They have identical DC resistance.

I don't know all the ins and outs of these with long bodies and short etc. Perhaps a 312 and 320 also share the same generator?
Regards,
Hi Griffithds, The 20SS, SLa are beryllium. For quite awhile AT put gold coating on both beryllium and boron. I think they just recently stopped with the OC9III. I'm not sure what the reason was for the coating, maybe durability. Both those materials are brittle and break easily.
Regards,
Hi Raul, Elmore James was one of the strongest guitar players/singers ever. Jimmy Hendrix was greatly influenced and named himself after James when he first started out (Maurice James, Jimmy James). He also wrote the tune Dust My Broom. Most of his records are on obscure labels but there are several compilations.
http://www.wirz.de/music/jamelmfrm.htm
Regards,
Nandric, **The cantilever of those Acutex carts is made
from titanium/boron 'alloy' and I am puzzled why aluminum
cantilever should be better?** Really, titanium/boron? That's quite unusual and is probably responsible for the voicing (discrepancies?) of these carts. Just based on cantilever length the 415 should be a superior cart, but Timeltel says it sounds overly detailed and like a PA system LOL. To sort this out it would help to find out what the differences are in the generators. That would make it easier to figure out cantilever/generator optimization.

Cantilever properties, mass, length and rigidity determine resonant frequencies and flexing behavior. Aluminum cantilevers tend to resonate within the audio band and this is sometimes used to augment frequency response, especially in MMs. Shorter cantilevers will resonate at a higher frequency and flex less. This flexing behavior is extreme and one of the major reasons aluminum tends to sacrifice detail for warmth or musicality. A cantilever flexing more, will have greater excursions, generally bigger bass, and sloppier detail. Although it's the stylus that reacts directly to groove modulations, it's the movements of the cantilever that cause the generator to produce electricity. Without experiencing these carts, I can only guess about possible improvements based on your descriptions. I suspect Axel would be able to help immensely in this regard. From Timeltel's description, the 415 might also have frequency response issues. If a new cart could be improved, I wouldn't hesitate replacing the stylus especially if you have multiple samples.

On the Chess label there were a couple of great harmonica players, Little Walter and Sonny Boy Williamson (II). If you like blues...
Regards,
Hi Pryso, Cantilever material isn't something to worry about. It's something to learn about and use, just like you might use different armboard materials, only perhaps more important. It doesn't bother me if someone wants to play only sound effects records. Does it really matter if a stereo system is a means or an end? Although I don't have any records of steam engines or thunderstorms (except maybe Weather Report), it might be fun for a few minutes.

I don't think the emotional involvement is exclusive of left brain activity. Even though you might get caught up in a performance, aren't you aware of whether that performance is better or worse when played with different equipment? You don't have to think about it, you know.
Regards
Hi Don, Consider yourself lucky with the 15/20 series and the old Signets with the round plug. At least there are some decent beryllium styli available. I was trying to transplant for the CA (3400) series and there's nothing really good. It's either Jico bonded, which aren't too bad or an AT 3400 series. I saw one with a alum/ML, but I'm reluctant to try. I've had better results with the ML and the exotic cantilevers.

I think that's part of what voicing is all about, finding the right combination of stylus/cantilever for a particular cart. My approach is somewhat different because I use loading, both resistance and capacitance, to optimise or try to, any particular combination. I have an orig 440 that I used to load at 32K, 100pF. I tried a 152ML (beryllium) and it was great at 47K. The cantilever probably contributes more to voicing than the tip. AT seems to be toning down some of its carts. The 33EV has an alum/.2 x .7 ellip, I believe. The OC9III has a boron/LC.

Timeltel, thanks for the info, I wouldn't have thought it. I didn't mean to slight your hurry-up comparison. I already knew you are very knowledgeable about Signet.
Regards,
Hi Griffithds, Wise move to hold off on transplants with a beryllium cantilever. They are every bit as tricky as Timeltel described, and then some. Guys like Soundsmith have special tools, clamps, and things like micro-comparators to make it much easier and it's still tricky. I'm not even sure it's possible to transplant a stylus with exotic cantilever from one series to another. Maybe it is, but I broke a few. Look at the bottom of the various AT carts, specifically the plugs and the angle of the cantilever. They seem to be different and this requires bending. Aluminum bends easily, but you only get 1 chance. Boron or beryllium break.

It's unusual that an AT cantilever (except some budget models) will differ in length, even by 1mm. Could a difference in VTA account for this? A steeper cantilever angle will seem like it's shorter. If a TK7SU is the same motor as a 20SS, then I think it's the RS180 that should be different. Your 155LC has a cu of 16 @100Hz and the 15/20 are 9cu. BTW, there are at least 3 or 4 different generators in the 15/20 series. Dlaloum has the details. I think Timeltel has credibility with these not because of this hurried comparison, but because of his experience with these Signets.

I don't know about your fascination with with a LC over a shibata. They're very similar. Maybe an LC is slightly more forward in the extreme top end. Yes, there are basically 2 sizes of shibata. The tip was redesigned and I believe the minor radius was reduced. Dlaloum can tell you about those details too. I think there are differences with some LC, FL etc. If you can find a 152 or 155ML stylus, that would be worth hocking your tractor for. The ML is the same as a micro ridge and significantly different from the others. AFAIK there are no micro tips when the 15/20 series or older Signets were current. If the TK7LCa is the more modern series, you could try ATN150MLX also.

Timeltel, is the impedance/inductance identical on 20SS and TK7SU? Are the Signet cantilevers really 1mm longer? Do you object if I occasionally end a sentence with a preposition?
Regards,
Don,
It was the additional weight at the headshell that increased the eff mass. Any weight there increases it close to the amount of additional weight, depending on whether it's in front or behind the cart.
Regards,
Hi David, I see the 7SU and the 20SLa share the same generator. I might be mistaken, but at one time I thought you had an AT comparison sheet for the 15/20 series. I believe the SS has 450 ohms? Maybe that's inductance and they are the same.

Yes indeed, the micro ridge has been used in Japan since it was invented, practically. Nakatsuka (ZYX) has been using them since the '80s.
Regards,
Hi Griffithds, Just listed wrong.
Audio-Technica AT33EV Cartridge Specifications
- Type: MC type
- Frequency range: 15Hz-50kHz
- Output voltage @ 1kHz,3.54cm/sec: 0.3mV
- Channel separation @ 1kHz: 30dB
- Output balance @ 1kHz: 0.5dB
- Stylus pressure: 1.8 - 2.2g (2.0g standard)
- Coil impedance: 10 ohms (1kHz)
- Direct current resistance: 10 ohms
- Recommended load resistance: 100 ohms or more (w/ head amplifier connected)
- Coil inductance: 22 mu H (1kHz)
- Static compliance: 40×10 - 6 cm/dyne
- Dynamic compliance : 10×10 - 6 cm/dyne (100Hz)
- Stylus tip: 0.3 x 0.7 mil nude elliptical
- Cantilever: Duralumin tapered pipe
- Vertical tracking angle: 23 °
- Dimensions (mm): H16 x W16.6 x L6.5
- Weight: 6.9 g

Sorry, I thought it was a .2 x .7 tip. That's on the 7V. AT has a reputation as having an overly bright "house sound". It doesn't look like they're willing to re-do the MM line. The 7V has been available in Japan for years. LpGear brings it in, it's not generally available in N America. I'd bet AT would sell a ton if they discontinued the 150MLX and brought back the 170ML and 20SS w/boron. That might require re-tooling though, although it might not be all that extensive. Phono carts seem almost like a sideline for them now. I'm sure they make most of their money from microphones and headphones.

Dlaloum and I discussed loading options before. For the end user MM/MI have a hugh advantage over MCs. Obviously, I don't go along with being stuck with one impedance, whether it's 47K or 100K. The advantage is being able to tune frequency response. I think it's ridiculous having some carts loaded at 100K with their tails up in the air or practically dragging on the record. SRA should be somewhere near 2 degrees, Period. MC loading is much more limited. Depending on the cart and phono pre, dynamics and soundstage are usually more affected than freq res. This greater adjustability combined with the option of stylus substitution/replacement makes HO carts much more practical and will outperform a MC that doesn't synergize with a particular phono pre or system.
Regards,
Don, There's PGT II now. Not sure how much different it is from the orig. It looks like AT might have done away with the gold dust on the boron cantilevers. You can see the specs and purchase on line at places like joynetmall.com They also have the orig 33PTG. My Genesis 1000 has diamond dust coating its boron cantilever. These coatings might have been for durability and rigidity? Soundsmith put a new micro tip on the orig cantilever. It came back sounding like it did when new.

The DL-S1 is a very listenable cart if the inductance/capacitance thing that J Carr was telling us about doesn't mess with your phono stage. The alum cantilever and special elliptical do not provide the ultimate in resolution, but has a top to bottom coherence and naturalness that's very nice. It seems to me to be a more sophisticated 103 type sound. Detail is very good but not great. I never heard a PTG, but compared to an OC9II, the Denon lacks detail. The OC9II is too forward, bright for my system and the PGT is said to be better in that respect. I wanted to get one too, but like you, I restrained myself. I like my Genesis better than the DL-S1 (I was reviewing it) and I really don't need another cart.
Regards,
Don, My dyslexia is contagious. I think it's PTG. A couple of times I wrote PGT. Don't put too much stock in in a review. They're good for getting an idea about the sound and one persons opinion/results. If the call was that close, it could come down to the type of music (s)he preferred or particular system compatibility. The DL-S1 was unlistenable through my AHT. The HF oscillation or whatever messed with the harmonics and the cart sounded like it was on amphetamines. It's ironic that the non magnetic core that makes it great also requires capacitors in the signal path that compromise performance. This oscillation is more common than one might think. It was a group review in which I participated. One other person also experienced this phenom. A guy on Asylum who loves the cart has to load it at 30 ohms. That's the impedance of the cart and essentially cuts its already low output in half. YMMV

I listen to mostly jazz and a little rock/pop and classical. I want a cart that's fast and accurate. I would have gotten a Monster 2000 back in the day, but I liked the 1000 better. The 2K had gold coils. It was smoother but the 1K was faster. I liked the Talisman S too. It was the best of the Sumikos back then and a great value. Maybe I'm romanticizing the relative prices. I'm talking '80s money and what would it be today? I've seen used Monsters f/s here for around $500. Tell me about the Shinnon Red.
Regards,

Friends, Did anyone purchase the AT-150ANV? This MM might be the best ever. It has a sapphire cantilever/ML tip. Apparently the generator has been redesigned and it now has 350mH inductance. Dlaloum mentioned it before, but I didn't look into it until now. It's a little pricey, going for $770 on fleabey.
Regards,
Hi Raul, Part of your description reads like a re-write of some of what I said, **has a top to bottom coherence and naturalness that's very nice.** As mentioned, my AHT wasn't the only phono stage where there were problems. I also said it was very listenable. Perhaps I didn't like it quite as much as you. Detail and harmonic layering were very good, but not great IMO. Maybe it does barely edge out a 33PTG.

So, what's this #1 MC you talked about a while back? It's been weeks or months since you mentioned a new champ. I have a feeling that since you re-did your high gain stage, you'll be talking about quite a few. If you feel that way about the DL-S1, I think you'll have to reevaluate many previous opinions. If you still have the DL1000 I bet it would beat the DL-S1 with your current preamp. Please remember, I never went along with the superiority of HO carts.
Regards,
Hi Halcro, Don, Is the 155LC stylus a transplant for the TK7Ea? I thought the 7Ea had a square plug, but I don't know the model numbers. If I might make a suggestion for AT/Signet styli, remove the plastic wings surrounding the stylus and use it like a Virtuoso. When you're not using the stylus just put it in a labeled replacement stylus box. This seems to improve performance, just like removing a stylus guard, perhaps more. I use a bit of tack around the base of the plug against the body. I have not tested this with all my ATs because I haven't used some in awhile, but I think this might be worth checking out.

Hi Raul, I never owned a DL1000. I looked up the specs and it seems very similar to the DL-S1, but with a boron cantilever and a special elliptical. It too must have non permeable core, with 33 ohms impedance and 0.12mV out. My point was really about the change(s) in your system and the need to reevaluate.
Regards,
Hi Timeltel, I remember you mentioned getting disappointing results with the 140LC stylus. Did you try it with one of the Signets? I don't know the complete specs of the 140 or 155, but I suspect the styli might have stronger magnets. These both have 3200 ohms and 5mV out. The original 440 and the MLa both have 3.2K ohms, 490mH. The OCC has 5mV and the MLa has 4.5mV. I wonder what the inductance is on the 140/155.

With some of these motors, a more advanced stylus shape doesn't seem to voice well with alum cantilevers. After owning the 440 for years and only getting acceptable results loaded at 32K, I set it aside. I later got a 152ML stylus (beryllium) and was rewarded with a first rate performance at 47K. With the specs of the CA carts, I think a stylus like the Maestros would be great. Perhaps a boron and Gyger S from Axel would do the trick. BTW the cu is also higher on the 140/155. It's in the 14 to 16cu range (100Hz). It's odd that the 152MLP was 10cu.
Regards,
Hello Griffithds, **If I understand it correctly, 90% of a cartridges sound is from the cantiliver/stylus. I use the 440MLa stylus on the TK5Ea and like it very much. Loaded at 47K with only the cables for cap. Sounds fine as I expect you very well know. What is it about the 440MLa's motor that causes so many people to dislike it when it is coupled with it own cantiliver/stylus combination? I understand it sounds very bright, ear piercing and ear bleedingly shrill are some of the discriptions I heard it described as! That desscription is about as far as it could be from what I'm hearing with the TK5Ea/440MLa combination!**

I don't know if it breaks down into a percentage like that, but yes, it's the movements of the cantilever that cause the generator to produce electricity. The output of a HO cart also has inductance as a property of that output. Inductance combined with shunt capacitance (the total capacitance load) lowers the high frequency resonance of the generating system (cantilever). It has the effect of (usually) making a cart sound brighter by augmenting the treble but rolling off the extreme high end. Examples of carts with high inductance are Shure M97 (600mH) and Stanton 681 (900mH). Sometimes overly mellow carts like the M97 will benifit from raising the resistance. The stock M97 will have flatter response loaded around 62K with "normal" shunt capacitance, around 250pF, possibly a little more. This capacitance will augment the drooping treble. Too much capacitance will roll off the high end. Another way to get better response is with a SAS stylus. In the case of the 440 the aluminum cantilever and superior HF tracking of the ML tip are too much in the treble region. Response is augmented just below 20K with a severe peak. Loading it down to around 35K will tame this but only if shunt capacitance is extremely low. Otherwise the very HF are lost. In this case a better solution is using a more rigid cantilever. This resonates above the audible band and doesn't exaggerate HF the way alum does. I'm not sure about cart impedance and didn't consider >2600 ohms as a limiting factor. Perhaps Timeltel is right, although the 95E has 2.8K impedance and doesn't sound glassy at all.

Your Signet has a different combination of inductance and impedance. You've hit on a combo where the sound is more compatible. You're using very little shunt capacitance so the affects of inductance are not augmented. That's what voicing is all about with HO carts and what makes them much more flexible or tunable than MCs.
www.tnt-audio.com/sorgenti/load_the_magnets_e.html
Regards,
Hi Tubed1, Super tweeters? Ribbon tweeters typically have response to 40KHz. Some RAAL ribbons are claimed to have flat response to 100KHz. Fostex makes quite a few super tweeters with response to 40K. Some of the ribbons and the Fostex have high efficiency. Try Madisound. Parts Express also has a few ribbons with extended response.
www.raalribbon.com/
Thanks David for the link - interesting stuff. L_dog is saying the exact thing I just posted about the 440. Actual cu is more like 13 @100 Hz. Also, I always used more VTF - around 1.7 to 1,8g. The subject is complex and often one aspect of cart use (set-up) is substituted or used to compensate for another, like mass, bearing friction and damping. For those substituting styli, the cart will now take on the specs of the new stylus. For example, using a ATN155LC will give you a cu of 16 @100Hz.
Regards,
What's often not taken into consideration is energy reflected back to the stylus from the record itself and its support, and the dissipation of energy through the arm to the counterweight and arm base and possibly the plinth. Knowing that energy can only be converted to another form and not lost, what happens to vibrations not transmitted due to isolation devices or poor transmission? Test reports of constrained layer damping between the cart and headshell show just how bad this is. IMO the cart has to be firmly attached to the headshell to maintain a fixed position, and to transmit vibrations to the arm. The more vibrations there are from the cart, the more this is crucial. Using mass to convert vibrations to heat is a most efficient way of dealing with this. Touch a vibrating tuning fork to a heavy rock, and the vibrations are quickly dealt with.
Regards,