Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
rauliruegas

Showing 50 responses by nandric

Hi Dover, You forget quotation marks by modesty. But as you of course know 'modesty'and other qualities are distributed by the (mother) nature. There is no institution to complain about our own share. However one can do something about his own nurture. I 'all modesty' I deed not bad in this respect.
Dear Fleib, Somewhere in this thread J.Carr stated:'if
I knew how to improve on MM carts I would certainly try.'
So the 'issue' is obviusly complex.

Regards,
Good evening Griffithds,
I like to discriminate between 'understanding' and 'being informed' and also between 'nature' and 'nurture'. J.Carr, for example, has the talent and the knowledge needed to design an, say,'top cart'. But one 'old master' make or 'produce' them. This is called 'scilfulness' which is more connected with experience and nurture then nature. The CD
caused an decline in demand for carts so that not only many persons involved in the production lost their jobs but
the 'nurture' of the new (young) persons for this job was
neglected. In specific sense 'cart making' become an 'old man occupation'. Well 'occupation' and 'innovation' are
connected. No wonder than that Raul and Dertonarm stated
many times that there are no real innovations by our beloved cartridges.

Regards,
If anyone deserves excommunication from our church than
Griffithds is his name. Prease the wrong God in the
wrong church. I really hope that my sons will not read his post.
The reason? 'But dad if you can get the same sound from a
$100 CD player what do you need 25 carts and 8 tonearms
for?' They even may consult a lawyer about their rights.
The moderator was obviously not amused with my microphone
on the plate in a meat ball disguise. So even I as an old
member in both senses of the word need approval for my
Balkan kinds of jokes. We all thought that only a novice or
the candidate party members should be checked in advance.
Griffithds, You seem to be an expert in finding the 'Balkan
part' in my post. But this is serious buseness. I am not
familiar with American laws but in Europe your own 'apple
of your eye' can put you in an asylum and dismiss you from
parental authotity. 99% of cases is about the spending
behaviour of mom and/or dad. I realy need to resell
one of those tonearms to prevent disaster.
Dear Griffithds, You missed this one because it is not a Balkan kind. It is a 'high level' argument meant not for my sons but for the judge. He also has kids and is already on your side. But he needs an good argument because he is not Einstein. With this argument he can state: 'your dad has already shown to be very reasonable by selling one of
his tonearms as a token of his good will. Your claim is dismissed as not entitled.'
Dear Griffithds, This is not the right place to answer your
questions. But in short. The family law and succsesion law
are incorporated in the civil law. The kids are not liable
for their parents debts if they don't accept the inheritance
otherwise well. By the capability of acting (signing an contract)
you can think of Alzheimer and similar situations
when the kids need to take over judicial
and other decisions from one or both parents.

Regards,
I have problem to diferenciate between 'loudness' and 'dynamics'. In any (home) listening roome there is a 'loudness level' which become unbearable. But I never experienced such a level by any concert( those with amps. not included).
The most money I spend or lost, depending from the point of
view, was on speakers and drink. I don't regret the drinks.
I first fall in love with Quod 57 but because of dynamics
switched to Timpany (Magi's), then one pair of Audiostatics
then two pairs of Audiostatics, three pairs of Audiostatics
and then I switched to Nudells Infinity but, alas, not the
biggest one. If I could afford those I would gladly convert
my home door in a fire department kind to let them in. My
last were based on the assumption that Beryllium drivers will
make (at last) the 'dynamic difference'. But alas.
So to protect myself and even more so my bank account I am
not in the position to believe Lew's story about his electrostatics
and 'life concerts' in his living room.
But I do believe in his argument about the speakers as the
primary cause for this misery even before I knew his name.

Regards,
Dear Dover, Your Dyna 13 rebuild by Dynavector looks to be a very interesting proposition. Can you be more specific about the details. I just got my Karat 17 D2 back from Axel. He somehow managed to solve the problem with the (very) short cantilever. He gets from his supplier the standard cantilever/stylus combos .I got his 'celebrated' line contact stylus pressure fitted in a aluminum cantilever.
Raul recommended this cart and I am impressed with the result. But I am also curious about the diamond cantilever and the rest. Does one need some dealer as intermediary or can one deal direct with Dynavector?

Regards,
Addendum, My 'big question' should be put otherwise.
Namely: if this Japanese Glanz is in any way connected
with the Mitachi Corporation which made the carts for
the German Glanz as well for the American Astatic . Our own
Thuchan speaks Japanese and is, as such, the right person
to investigate. Thanks in advance Thuchan.
Dear Don, Only a damn capitalist can afford nude Shibata/ Berillium combo. My retip is the proletarian kind: Aluminum / line contact. I am not sure yet how to rank the
G800. I tested this one for just two days. But anyway my Ruby 3s is better.

Regards,
Dear Henry, I thought that there is consensus about the 'fact' that the speakers are the weakest link in our systems. Anyway I agree with your stand. Speaking about speakers those that I consider to be exceptional and capable to delivere the needed dynamics are ( in chronological order) the so called 'line source': Apogee's(Scintilla), the big one's by Nudell's Infinity and the(newer kind) Dali Megaline. Albert owned the Megaline so
he can say more about them. What I can say is that those Megaline can be get in Germany for a very reasonable price (+/- 10.000 Euro). No conventional speakers can come close to.
Regards,
Dear Don, To be honest I was very sceptical about the G800
but I asked Axel for the same upgrade as Raul without any
idea what he ordered. The G 800 was his idea btw. I am also
suprised that you needed new suspension for your Ruby 3S.
This is pretty new model and my is like new. My quess is that
'S' means Gyger S . Anway Gyger S is writen in my
measuring paper.

Regards,
Dear Dover, This was my fearful assumption: to good to be true. That was 'the' why of my question. But I am happy for you. I have some idea about the so called 'retip' services.
To retip a stylus in the existing cantilever seems to be much more difficult then to replace the 'whole thing'. So those retip firms get from their supplier cantilevers with
styli already fitted. I assume that those 'combos' have a particular lenght and the connected angle for the stylus.
Considering the very unusual (short) cantilever by Dyna Karat I am glad that Axel somehow fixed this problem. My quess is that he used aluminum because the 'exotic kind'
can't be bend (for the stylus angle). I never asked Axel if his 'aluminum cantilevers' are actually some 'alloy' kind. But I was already impressed with his upgrade on my
Virtuoso black which was line contact pressure fitted in a aluminum cantilever. BTW my second Virtuoso got the boron cantilever with nude elliptical. This upgrade however become very expensive recently because of the (huge) incrise in Japanese prices. Ergo: those Dyna's look very attractive but the problem is obvious.

Dear Lew and Henry, To call my babys 'metalic' or even worst 'monsters' is not something that I can possible connect with the expressinon 'politeness'.

Regards,
Dear Henry, Within 12 days you can use the plural 'we'
without any fear to be accused of exaggeration. I
just posted my FR-7 to Axel for the same retip.

Regards,
Dear Thuchan, Those among us who have the priviledge to own
the FR-64S are, I assume, interested in the new Ikeda's
carts. But the nomenclature is very confusing. To my knowlegde
there are three versions . Can you 'rank' them for us?

Regards,
Dear Fleib, I am glad that I followed your suggestion and bought the Genesis 1000. While you was sceptical about Axel's retip (line contact pressure fitted in aluminum cantilever) I can say that Genesis 1000 with Axel's retip is a much better proposition then Dyna 17 D models. Besides the retip with the line contact/ aluminum is relative the most economical upgrade at present. In my present ranking: 1. Miyabi 2. ex aequo: Ruby 3S, Sony XL 88, Genesis 1000 3. Phase Tech P-3G ,Dyna Karat 17 D2 (Axel's retip), AT 180 , Virtuoso black and Glanz 31 L.

Regards,
Dear Don, I kind of already fool you with my Miyabi. My is the 'American Takeda'(Krell KC 100) and I am very reluctant to say what I paid for. To my knowledge Axel does not fit styli in any cantilever but get those as combos (stylus already fitted in the cantilever) from his supplier. I have an whole list of questions for Axel but he has at present so much work that I need to ask 'piece by piece'. My next will be if he does the actual retip. That is 'glue' the selected stylus in the existing cantilever. That to me that is the 'real meaning' of 'retip'. The pressure fitted styli have the advantage that there is no glue between the cantilever and stylus. Not to mention the danger involved by cleaning the stylus
with fluids.

Regards,
Dear Don, Considering your background I am really suprised that you believe in Lew's myth reg. Acme. Before ordering 15 of them you should, as he should, first order one, then compare with the cheap one and if convinced about their superiority order the other 14. There is no sense in spending money saved by avoiding the retip (because of the new prices) for fuses.

Regards,
Dear Dover, Despite of your eloquence your are fetched in contradictions. While I always thought that logic is a weak part by Raul. BTW he should quote his own statements from time to time in the same context. My experience is that the more sentences one produce the more chance for contradictions. So you probable also deserved an Mexican copper mask. Even without any info about your behaviour by accidents.
Good evening Don, To my knowledge Axel is not yet 65 old.
He can retire but still loves his work. I stated somewhere
in this thread that this craftmanship of making carts is
'old man business'. Axel is in this business for 40 years.
Only daily repetition and actual work make such craftmanship
possible. The problem with 'retip' is that 'it' actualy
means replacement of the whole cantilever/stylus combo.
There is a repair service in Holland which do the real retip
for extra payment but I am new in this practice and
have only experience with Axel. What I also need to
ask Axel is if those 'aluminum' cantilevers are not some kind
of alloy. I know that there are beryllium/aluminum
alloy cantilevers (AKG top line carts for example).

Regards,
Dear Dover, You are to modest. Thanks to Lew's and Henry's
objections I decided not to buy the Genesis 1.1 (aka Infinity RS)
and saved $250.000.
There are those who think that an Armani coat in combination with the jeans looks cool. I observed something 'similar' with the exotic cantilevers + exotic styli glued in an aluminum tube behind them (grin).
I must confess my addiction to those damn carts. Each day
I spend at least two hours searching for the 'interesting'
carts of both kinds. Those which are also cheap are the
most interesting. But the rules of the game are changed
with the huge incrise in retip prices. With so many carts
one should have, I think, some exit strategy. That is to
say the possibility to resell some of them for a 'resonable
price'. Otherwise this 'addiction' become more crazy then
it already is. I have no idea how many producers of those
cantilever/stylus combo's there are but I don't understand
why boron, beryllium, sapphire, etc. are so much
more expensive than aluminum with the same stylus.
From the fact that Axel and I wrote more then 4 emails
to two producers asking for the micro ridge styli
but without any reaction from both I deduce that they
can afford such a attitude. Are those producers
some kind of monopolist?
The fact also that Japanese producers incrised
one-sided their prices with 100% suggest that there
is no much competition between them. To make my
point I am pretty sure that I will never (re)sell
my G800 for the price of the retip only. This means
in my case: no more carts which need a new cantilever and/or stylus.

Regards,
Dear Raul, The problem with Van den Hul is that he can
be reached only via intermediary. Even for us in Holland.
There is one other retip service in Holland but the prices
are nearly identical with Axel's. I like Axel very much but
my bank account even more. 400 Euro for an retip is anayway
to expensive for me. But you are our leader in this adventure
so you will lead the way. BTW I don't believe that Van den
Hul himself does any retip work. He owns 3
different companies and spend more time in Ukraine than
Holland.

Regards,
Dear Lew, Thanks for the tip. I had no idea about anything interesting in Ukraine. Van den Hul is there involved in the aviation industry with his carbon (?)wire company. I really need to 'refresh' my Russian while Ukraine is nearer than the Russian Federation.
Dear Don, I deed not assume that your fuses are from some
auto part store but well that they are put in whatever part
of your gear by those who made the same gear. They are supposed
to know about the parts they use I think. In Europe we know
about different kinds of fuses for years.
According to some they make no (electrical)sense , accordiding
to others they are 'a must have'. I am happy to report
that my FR-7 needs no upgrade so I saved about 180
Euro which I can spend on fuses. If I only knew where to put them.

Regards,
Dear Don, You already told us to be a retired aircraft engineer. So you have all the time to mess with a.o. the fuses. I am also a retired person but as civil servant with hernia (got the hernia from adjustment of those damn springs on the LP12). Besides my lovely ASR 'German artillery' has two battery packs for, I assume, the signal path but I have no idea which is which. To avoid trouble I simply assume that there are no fuses in my signal path. This way I can concentrate on purchase of carts and tonearms. One can't have it all?

Regards,
Dear Lew, Look at the speaker forum, 'Best Electrostatic speaker', the contribution by Albertporter 06-16-00. If he is right you will not care to pay $59 for whatever number of fuses you may need.

Dear Dover, I recognise your (scary) description but in my case this was my first visit to a disco. I had no idea how little people care about their own ears and how much about
their other organs. But to emigrate to New Zealand for this reason looks to me exaggerated.

Regards,
Dear Dover, You obviously overlooked the human rights issue. Everyone has the right to his own opinion as well the right to express his opinion. Now the problem is if this apply to whatever subject matter. That is to say reg. everything thinkable. I always thought that this right is the prerogative for the philosophers only. One can perhaps
add some kind of lawyers to this 'category' because they are supposed to be capable to defend or accuse whatever there is to defend or accuse. This kind consist of attorney and prosecutors. Alas I am neihter of them so I have no opinion about the fuses. But if enyone is interested in particle physics ...

Regards,
Dear Dover, Congratulation with your complete FR-64s. There
is , it seems, some kind of a priori preference for the silver wired kind, but 'it depends...' as usual. Some prefer copper above silver. I own both kinds and use to copper version as
a 'universal arm'. I don't claim that FR-64 'IS' universal arm but I test all my MM and MC carts with this one. I just got my first FR-7 (returned by Axel; no need for any 'upgrad') and was first suprised to see the whole(diamond)shank and line contact stylus. I expected the conical kind as mentioned by Henry. The second suprise was the sound. Very similar to my (American) Miyabi. Dynamic and fast. From key notes via overtones, harmonics and decay there is a kind of a natural 'picture' such that one can 'see' the size of instruments in front of one's ears. My both tonearms in my main system have fast headshells so,alas, no possibility for A-B-B-A with Miyabi but I would
rank the F-7 as equal in the context of my 'collection'.
I can hardly believe that other versions (F-7f, etc) can do better. Then there is of course also the implied 'perspective' for those 'huge' Ortofon SPU versions. Which other tonearm can menage such a variation of carts?

Regards,
Dear Henry, I am not sure if your FR-7 is 7f? I searched on the net and was suprised to see that FR-7 has a line contact- while the 7f has the conical stylus. If I remember well your original stylus was conical while Axel provided line contact pressure fitted in a aluminum cantilever. This upgrad is (lucky us) still available for the old price. I am sorry to tell you that your second FR-66 may be an error. I discovered that the 'German group'
is selling their FR-66 probable in connection with the new tonearm by the 'tonearm' Dertonarm. According to my info this arm will be available next month? I agree that FR-64S is a bergain but in my opinion because this one is much more beatuful than the 'monster brother'. Anyway I own two of those and intend to wait till the price get the right valuation. But of more interest to me at present is if you ever try those 'huge' Ortofon SPU carts? BTW at last a kind of an 'international group' against those damn Germans: New Zealand, Australia and (I count for two) Serbia + Holland.

Regards,
Dear Lew, 'the one that was being sold on eBay.' The arm
or the B60 VTA adjuster? I bought the B-60 on the A'gon market but my specimen had some kind of silicon oil inside which I removed and substituted for a ball bearing grease. This way the B-60 moves much more smooth. Is your intention to install the FR-64s instead of the LO7D tonearm or as the second arm in the back (left) side of your TT? My quess is that the Sumiko 800 (aka 'the arm') is 'as made' for this purpose. I own one of those, complete with all 5 counterweights...

Regards,
Dear Thuchan, As you of course know I am a suporter of the
German group but because of my nature ( a born Serbian worrior) I can't be counted as a German. My problem with the FR-66 are the dimensions. Strange that even an architect was not able to see this( all those huge buildings at present?). The FR-64 s is actually an 10'' arm ( that is why I am skeptical reg. Lew's intentions) and the most beautiful tonearm ever made. I own two selected specimens and am sure that I deed not miss enything. But you should be able to provide info about those 'huge' Ortofons SPU carts as well how they compare with the FR-7 variations?

Regards,
Dear Lew, When I wanted to add a second tonearm to my Kuzma
S.R. the space on the left back side was not even suitable
for an 9'' tonearm. That is why I ordered the arm as well
as the armpod by the Reed. Now it is only my quess that you
will need an 9 '' tonearm for your Kenwood. The FR-64 is
actually an havy and 'huge' tonearm. The Baerwald distance
is 231,5 cm. (spindle to pivot). I assume that you will not
be able to use your cover in conjunction with the FR-64 or
smaller arm?
I consulted the seller of those B-60 VTA adjuster. Actually
the whole 'adventure' was initiated by some Japanese who
called himself 'Kurt' but lives in Hawai.This guy made the
drowings, etc. and ordered the production in Japan (?).
That is anyway what he told me. But he was not able to sell
them with any profit. So he give up. But I bought one of
those that he 'produced' and deed not notice then that his
was as 'stiff' as the one I bought on A'gon market. So I
disassemled the whole thing, cleaned the sticky silicon oil
and substituted for a ball bearing grease. It moves now
when I look strongly at the thing and comand which way I
want the thing to go: up or down.

Regards,
Dear Lew, With an 'infinite' number of arguments to yours
(mind) disposal there is always the possibility of some contradictions. For example: 'practical'? = one box CD.
But then: '...in favor of an EPA 100 ,which seems more practical to mount'. This however was my point by my 'practical considerations'. But I promise to never ever again question your impressive and beautiful slate plinths.

Regards,
According to the review in the German Magazine 'Das Ohr' (The ear; nr.7, 1984) there are two 'tiny faults' by the FR-64S. In the higher midds there is a 'tiny roughness'
by vocals with a small accentuation of the guttural(sound).
The second is by the low frequenties by which there is a tendency to reproduce bass darker and more voluminous than one would call 'natural'. To prevent a further accentuation of those 'faults' one should be careful to fasten the screws on the counterweight, lift and anti-skate weight.
I was not able to notice any 'guttural' faults with my FR-64/ FR-7 combo but by switching the pre from 100 to 50 Ohm I noticed well the reduction of the 'voluminous' bass
to a more 'natural' kind.

Regards,
If our Lew was a lawyer he would be certainly already a
rich guy. When we all are out of arguments he just starts.
Henry made a whole list of arguments , in a neat order, but
with one single strock (the difference between $1100 and
$400) all of them were destroyed. More in particular the
dimensions of the black (knulred) knob. If he only
had more spare time to finish all of his already started
programme and post his conclusions. However his weak
'spot' are obviuously those beautiful but not very practical
slate plinths. No way one can install the FR-64
in there. What are the thikness dimensions of those babys?
Addendum, I forget to elaborate on the Japanese Kurt from Hawaii. He made much effort to produce those 'exact replicas' of the B-60 but he also mentioned that those are made in Japan. He sold his first batch of 10 (?) for $500 each but was not able to make any profit and give up. He also told me that some (smart) Swiss purchased his last 4 or so. Now the following question seems to put it self with 3 or more questions marks. So how is it possible that those guys from Taiwan can make profit on those 'exact replicas' for $400 each? My quess is that those are made by the glorious people of China with the leadership of the glorious communist party. However for $700 difference I don't mind that the black (knurled)knob is the whole 2 mm smaller.
Dear Henry, 'the medical researcher and the lawyer' will never claim to have esthetical feelings or insight comparable to an architect. Besides they are sometimes
pragmatic. More in particular about the money. BTW I already consulted my machinist about the black (knulred) knob. He can produce one that is 2mm larger in diameter from whatever substance I want for 20 Euro (labour). My dilemma is between gold or platinum. The part about Porsche I will gladly leave to Lew. I know nothing about those.

Regards,
Dear Dover, I was not sure how to translate German 'higher
midds' and was also not sure if the 'upper midds' is a more
adequate English expression. But assuming that technical
persons among us can determine this frequency range
then the kind of the needed demping will be also more clear(?).
Regarding the 'fatness' of the bass I am very curious if
Henry also experimented with loading by his FR-64/66 /FR-7
combos? In my second system my choice is limited to 50, 100,
250 and 500 Ohm. I started with 100 , then 50 Ohm and
prefer the later.

Regards,
Dear Henry, You already know that I am a sick person in connection with the tonearms. Add to that the paradox of an not technical guy fond of technical specs. To my mind
the FR-7 and FR-7 f differ only qua styli. FR-7 line contact, FR-7f conical stylus. The FR-7fz has a higher output(0,22 mV) which should mean more wire in the coil. But their valuation make no sense to me.Those should be the other way round. That is to say I am so fond of my FR-7 that I WANT this one to be the best.

Ragards,
Dear Henry, 'history repeats itself' it seems. As was
the case with the B-60 'original' versus 'replica', for the
price difference between FR-7 versus 7f or 7fz I am happy
with my FR-7. Besides I wish and grant my Aussie friend
the best of the best. The jealousy is like your boomerang.
And the Serbian joke about this instrument is: an Aussie
got a new boomernag for his birthday and was 2 years busy
to trow the old one away.
Dear Don, At last one classless, proletarian cart of high
quality for the people. That is to say if the valuation
by some capitalist can be trusted. I thought that there is
'some' difference between the A&R Cambridge/ Jico and the
one which is tweaked by the Aussie brothers.

Regards,
Dear Don, I am not sure if I and Raul are on 'speaking terms' so you should inform him about the Jico alternative to the retip adventure. He already made Axel rich but intend to make also Van den Hul even richer than this guy already is. If Raul however decide for the Jico those retip prices must go down. At least according to the known economic principles. Alas for the MC's there is no alternative. I just posted to Axel some strange looking Roksan Shiraz 'reincarnation' of the 'good old' EMT cart.
Looks as terrifying as those Van den Hul birds. But there is nothing wrong with the stylus or the cantilver but 'only' with a piece of wire from the coils to the connector. If this is actually the case this will be my 'best bay' on ebay.

Regards,
Hi , I am Eva , Axel's secretary. I am sorry but I was busy
lately with Christmas shopping.
( kindly translated by Nandric for all those who are not
Germans or from New Zealand).