One can typically raise the bias of ANY amp, so long as there is adequate heatsinking and air-space available. As such, you can use a multi-channel amp and have the manufacturer adjust the bias setting to operate in Class A up to X amount of power, switching over to Class B above that point.
In my experience, depending on speaker efficiency and impedance, somewhere between 6 - 10 watts of Class A power @ 8 ohms seems to work quite well with Class B operation kicking in above that point. Due to the lower impedance of your MTM section and low efficiency of your woofer section, i would recommend going higher on the bias scale rather than lower. That is, 6 watts of Class A bias @ 8 ohms is only going to net you 3 watts of Class A @ 4 ohms. While this would still be better than most, moving up to 10 watts @ 8 ohms would give you 5 watts of Class A @ 4 ohms. By the time you switch over to Class B, your listening level is so high that any form of crossover distortion becomes negligible.
As far as the woofer section goes, 100 watts wouldn't make an 84 dB woofer flinch, even if actively crossed and bandwidth limited. Besides that, passive radiator systems generate more reflected EMF than most other designs, meaning that you need even more power to keep the driver under control. I don't know how big your room is, how loud you like to listen, etc... but i would be looking at some very high powered, high current amps for that section if i were you. That is, unless you listen to smooth jazz or chamber music at background levels.
With the above info taken into account, you might want to think about a medium to high powered ( 100 - 200 wpc @ 8 ohms ) four channel amp for the highs / mids and a very robust ( 350+ wpc @ 8 ohms ) two channel amp for the woofers. Larger amps typically have more output devices and heatsinking, which allows them to share the higher load of a richer Class A bias with out as mech thermal stress on any given part. As mentioned above, sticking with the same manufacturer would have several advantages.
Before investing in any of this, do a LOT of homework. What you are attempting to do is neither inexpensive nor simple in most cases. Obviously, it can be done using less power and in a very simple & convenient manner ( one six channel amp ), but why go to all of this trouble unless you're really trying to obtain max performance? Sean
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In my experience, depending on speaker efficiency and impedance, somewhere between 6 - 10 watts of Class A power @ 8 ohms seems to work quite well with Class B operation kicking in above that point. Due to the lower impedance of your MTM section and low efficiency of your woofer section, i would recommend going higher on the bias scale rather than lower. That is, 6 watts of Class A bias @ 8 ohms is only going to net you 3 watts of Class A @ 4 ohms. While this would still be better than most, moving up to 10 watts @ 8 ohms would give you 5 watts of Class A @ 4 ohms. By the time you switch over to Class B, your listening level is so high that any form of crossover distortion becomes negligible.
As far as the woofer section goes, 100 watts wouldn't make an 84 dB woofer flinch, even if actively crossed and bandwidth limited. Besides that, passive radiator systems generate more reflected EMF than most other designs, meaning that you need even more power to keep the driver under control. I don't know how big your room is, how loud you like to listen, etc... but i would be looking at some very high powered, high current amps for that section if i were you. That is, unless you listen to smooth jazz or chamber music at background levels.
With the above info taken into account, you might want to think about a medium to high powered ( 100 - 200 wpc @ 8 ohms ) four channel amp for the highs / mids and a very robust ( 350+ wpc @ 8 ohms ) two channel amp for the woofers. Larger amps typically have more output devices and heatsinking, which allows them to share the higher load of a richer Class A bias with out as mech thermal stress on any given part. As mentioned above, sticking with the same manufacturer would have several advantages.
Before investing in any of this, do a LOT of homework. What you are attempting to do is neither inexpensive nor simple in most cases. Obviously, it can be done using less power and in a very simple & convenient manner ( one six channel amp ), but why go to all of this trouble unless you're really trying to obtain max performance? Sean
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