Systemdek IIX Turntable Bearing

The ball bearing is probably just stuck to the bottom with old oil. Spray some killer penetrant and let sit over night, or perhaps fill the bearing well with acetone ot lacquer thinner (and cover with saran wrap or a cork so it won't evaporate!) and let that sit awhile.

If it still doesn't come out, try a small alnico magnet taped to a stiff copper (or other non-ferrous) wire. And if that doesn't work, get a small stick (like an 1/8" piece of dowel. Make sure the end of the dowel and the top of the ball are clean and dry. And then apply some super glue to the end of the dowel, slide it into the bearing well and stick it to the ball. Wait a bit. It should pull it out, and you can either replace the ball with a new one, or clean off the super glue with super glue remover and a scotch-brite pad.

If all that fails, you can always heat the bottom of the well (from the outside) with a propane torch which should loosen any grunge that's currently acting like glue!

Hi,
Thanks very much for your suggestions. I appreciate it. What type of penetrant would be suitable? I'd have to go buy something. Would rubbing alcohol work instead of acetone or lacquer thinner? I hesitate to use the super glue option as I don't have another ball in case the glue wouldn't come off. I don't know if I could get an exact match at my local hardware store.
Please get back to me when you can. Thanks again.
Sincerely,
Jeff

WD-40 is a good penetrant, but you can find even better ones at Pep Boys, Auto Zone, or Checker Auto.

I'd do that first, and if it doesn't work, then holding the well with a pair of pliers, heat the bottom of the well on the outer edge electric stove burner coil, or tip it over and heat the bottom with a bernz-o-matic propane torch or a heat gun on high (red hot is not necessary -- about like a soldering iron's heat is enough.) That will soften the grunge (especially with whatever penetrant is still in there) and then, still holding it upside down with the pliers, give the bottom a good whack with a hammer. That ought to do it.

100% grain alchohol (Everclear) might work but probably not (not strong enough.) Don't worry about getting super glue on the ball, it's very hard and you can pop the glue off with a razor or as I said before, Scotch-brite moistened with a little super glue remover. In fact, scratch that idea! You don't want to inadvertently glue the ball to the bottom of the bearing well!!

If you really don't feel comfortable with any of these suggestions, or none of 'em work, just leave the ball in there. The most important thing is to clean out as much of the old lubricant as possible with solvents, dry the well with a twisted piece of paper towel, and relenish with fresh bearing oil. About 1.0 cc (1/4 tsp) in the bottom of the well or enough to cover the ball, and then coat the shaft before installing. Any high viscosity (40 weight) motor oil should be fine, although I've seen tons of other recommendations here in these forums.

Platter bearing lubricant should be replaced at least once a year (even with minimum use) because it does dry out and get sticky -- but you already know that!

Hi Again,
Thanks so much for getting back to me. I have some WD-40 here. I'll try that first. If it doesn't work I'll use the "heat treatment", although all I have handy is a gas range. I'll be careful not to heat the bottom too much. I generally use 30 weight oil for the bearing because it was recommended in the instructions for my old AR ES-1. I do know that, up to a point, higher viscosity is better. I'll try the 40 weight. I know that everyone seems to have their own favorite bearing lubricant. What do you think of the "black oil"? I'll let you know how I make out. Thanks very much again.
Sincerely,
Jeff