Rowland Model 1 w/ B&W 802N

The N802s want to be bi-amped, though doing this actively becomes very expensive. My recommendation is to bypass the Rowland (quality at a price), and drop into Bryston 4B-ST, per Speaker, or using two of their 250wpc powerpacks (you can put these behind the speaker, and keep your speaker wire expenditures to a minimum.
The Bryston is not in the same league as the Rowland, but you don't need to spend that kind of money and amps.

Rowland/B&W will be a magical combination, I had 803's on Rowland 8ti and was amazed at the sense of refinement/smoothness/continuousness and overall musicality. OH MY. It did not seem to have enough punch/slam though. I ended up with Krells and 801's.It's both good, just different. You will achieve good results by biwiring, at a minimum then biamping later as finances allow. A nice system. Bryston is good too,as I have one also, surprisingly for the money. Good luck.

I have a pair of bridged Rowland Model 1's driving Snell Type A/IIIi's. The speakers are 4ohm, so the bridged amps see, effectively, a 2ohm load. While these are the only amps I have listened to with these speakers, I am extremely happy with the sound. I talked with Jeff Rowland before purchasing the amps, regarding whether or not I should bridge them or biamp the speakers. He suggested that bridging them would be the best option, as they were designed from the ground up with bridging in mind.

Ratherman, VERY nice rig. The Snell A III i's LOVE power. I'm so green with envy : ) Have you tried vertically biamping them? You might like that-I know I did.

I have the Snell Aii's that I bi-amp with a Bryston 4B on the low end with a Counterpoint SA-100 on mid/tweeter with Sonic Frontiers SFL-1 pre-amp and a Symetrey low pass crossover. I've been thinking about new elctronics. Any suggestions.