recapping crossovers....do or don't?

One caveat with the Russian teflon's as a bypass. In my experience I liked them a lot on the tweeter, but they were too forward on my mid/bass driver. Also, too much of a good thing can be too much. I would suggest using them on the primary in line cap on your tweeter crossover, but not on any other cap. Use something else on the others, like a RelCap RT or a Sonicap Gen II, or else you might get too much of that teflon sound instead of just the clean transparency.

I really can't understand why this happens, but in my experience it does.

Enjoy,
bob

I'm going to get my modded black gate C200 preamp at the end of this week....I have already got a ton of transparency...so i will wait to see what effect this pre has on my system....thanks for all the input...really helpful.

I have built an outboard crossover for my JBL L-300s. The Duelund resistors are magic! If you have resistors in the signal path you NEED to give the Duelund resistors a try. The Mundorf Gold-Silver-Oil caps are also very very good in the signal path.

Mundorf's new resistors are pretty sweet too, and they're cheap! I can't see using Mills again.

To catch up here...I have 400 hours on my BG/Mundorf Accuphase C200. I think it is a perfect match with my VAC 140's along with my modded Monarchy dac. It hard to imagine my system sounding better....but I can't resist replacing the Solens in my crossovers...I would like a little more extension on the highs...but not Hi-fi...natural...I am looking at the Jantzen Silvers or the Z-Superiors. I have read some good reveiws and they look to be a excellant value. I am really pleased with the low and midrange sound...so I will stick with the MIT's for now...Anybody have any thoughts on the Jantzens??